How to build an 80 on a budget

Klierslc

Explorer
Texas is flat... don't need gears there anyway.

Both axle services are easily done on the cheap yourself. Aussie locker is easy to do youself. There are gear shops in San antonio--when you get there, pull the thirds and bring them into the shop for regear--should be less than 1k doing it that way. A lot of that 2800 is labor.
 

Sempertoy

Explorer
Texas is flat... don't need gears there anyway.

Both axle services are easily done on the cheap yourself. Aussie locker is easy to do youself. There are gear shops in San antonio--when you get there, pull the thirds and bring them into the shop for regear--should be less than 1k doing it that way. A lot of that 2800 is labor.

When are you coming home? If its before May, would you like to spend some quality time at the hobby shop with me?

I'd love to learn to do a front axle service myself, that way I can do it again in the future. I know there are a lot of write ups on it but I'm a hands on learner. I like your idea, as much ad I'd love to drop 2800 bucks into my cruiser, I just don't get paid enough to do that lol.


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Sempertoy

Explorer
While you're spending money and rebuilding your front axle... I love my Longfield knuckle wiper seals. Beats the hell out of the 3-piece felt seals. Too bad you aren't going to Quantico - I'd be happy to hook you up.

Are they the same concept as marlins Eco seals? Thanks for the offer, maybe ill have to reconsider where I go to school based on available expo members lol.


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TangoBlue

American Adventurist
Are they the same concept as marlins Eco seals? Thanks for the offer, maybe ill have to reconsider where I go to school based on available expo members lol.

Negative. The inner axle Eco seals are in Marlins 80 Knuckle Gasket & Seal Kit. The Longfield wiper seals replace 3 of the knuckle gaskets; "These seals are UHMW, designed for wear. You should never have to buy another wiper seal. Unlike the old three piece style felt seals that don't wipe the grit away and pick it up and drag it back and forth. These seals are only 1 piece and it wipes the ball joint clean as you turn. With our seal you eliminate the rubber & felt seal."

Now you're thinking Marine -- next time you're talking to your monitor be sure to put that in your career planning.
 

Sempertoy

Explorer
Negative. The inner axle Eco seals are in Marlins 80 Knuckle Gasket & Seal Kit. The Longfield wiper seals replace 3 of the knuckle gaskets; "These seals are UHMW, designed for wear. You should never have to buy another wiper seal. Unlike the old three piece style felt seals that don't wipe the grit away and pick it up and drag it back and forth. These seals are only 1 piece and it wipes the ball joint clean as you turn. With our seal you eliminate the rubber & felt seal."

Now you're thinking Marine -- next time you're talking to your monitor be sure to put that in your career planning.

Gotcha, those sound sweet, ill have to take a closer look! As far as monitors go, in about 5 months I'll never have a career monitor again, at least not in the Corps.


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TangoBlue

American Adventurist
Gotcha, those sound sweet, ill have to take a closer look! As far as monitors go, in about 5 months I'll never have a career monitor again, at least not in the Corps.

Oh... I thought you were married. I've had one for 33 years now... ;)
 

Klierslc

Explorer
I'll be back before may--hopefully. The front end rebuild is pretty straightforward. Most people goof up the spindle bushing lube, but it is easy over all.
 

Sempertoy

Explorer
Oh... I thought you were married. I've had one for 33 years now... ;)

You sir, are witty. I guess I do have a career planner after all.



If anyone has given up hope on this "budget build" stick around!

I realized yesterday that I don't need a $2800 set up for my gears. I called around a few places and one of my local cruiser buddies pointed me to a shop in Kearney Mesa, Pro Gears. I had a nice talk with Mark, and after he realized he couldnt talk me out of owning and wheeling a cruiser he was more than happy to talk gears. His quote was reasonable. He told me to pull the diffs and bring them in and that alone would save me a few hundred. This isnt going to happen next week, or next month, but I intend to get it done before May. So that gives me a few months to get some funds saved up for this project. So stick around! The budgeting continues!
 

ab1985

Explorer
If you're going to pull the diffs and re-install them yourself you may want to consider buying rebuilt units with gears already installed. You could probably get your parts cost down to $2k (I haven't looked at LC diffs yet so don't quote me). Call around to Marlin, ECGS, Just Differentials, Davez Offroad, or some others. If you can keep the shipping costs down it might be worth it.
 

kletzenklueffer

Adventurer
If you're going to pull the diffs, you might as well plan to rebild the front in the process. you'll have to take off pretty much everythinf involved in the rebuild when you pull the front diff anyway, so start reading on MUD and you can take that cost out of the equation. Only a few special tools needed- snap ring pliers (<$20), 54mm or 2-1/8" socket ($20+/-) and a torque wrench (loaner?)
 

Sempertoy

Explorer
If you're going to pull the diffs, you might as well plan to rebild the front in the process. you'll have to take off pretty much everythinf involved in the rebuild when you pull the front diff anyway, so start reading on MUD and you can take that cost out of the equation. Only a few special tools needed- snap ring pliers (<$20), 54mm or 2-1/8" socket ($20+/-) and a torque wrench (loaner?)

Yeah, I have taken this into account also. Here is my question. If I do a rebuild before I pull my diffs, will I have to replace anything thats essentially new? I am planning a rebuild right after the first of the year and I dont think ill be re gearing that soon.

As far as tools go, I am pretty lucky, I have access to the auto hobby shop on base and they have just about anything you could think of, as well as lifts.
 

kletzenklueffer

Adventurer
Only gaskets might need replaced. wipe them with grease or oil when you rebuild and they should last a while and hold together when you pull the diffs.

The MUD front end rebuild thread in the FAQ is great. I read it a few times, printed it and referenced it a couple times during my rebuild. Inspect your spindles and don't skimp if they're worn. I went with 100 series semi metallic pads when I had my rotors turned. I woudn't do it again if I had it to do over. I don't know if I shold have gone with organics, but the 100 series don't offer any better braking as far as I can tell.
 

CreeperSleeper

Looking for bigger rocks.
Here is my advice: Call up JT's (justdifferentials.com) and tell them you are a 'Mud member. Order up the rebuild kit, gears and install kit from them. They will hook you up on a package deal. Take out your 3rds and drop them off at a shop to have the gears set up. It should be less than $400. Also, stay away from the Marlin seals. I had a bunch of issues when I ran them. They don't deflect enough for a proper seal on an full-time 4x4 (IMO). Do the rest of the labor yourself. It's easy and (in a wierd way) kinda fun.
 

Sempertoy

Explorer
Here is my advice: Call up JT's (justdifferentials.com) and tell them you are a 'Mud member. Order up the rebuild kit, gears and install kit from them. They will hook you up on a package deal. Take out your 3rds and drop them off at a shop to have the gears set up. It should be less than $400. Also, stay away from the Marlin seals. I had a bunch of issues when I ran them. They don't deflect enough for a proper seal on an full-time 4x4 (IMO). Do the rest of the labor yourself. It's easy and (in a wierd way) kinda fun.

Very interesting review on the marlin seals chad, I have never heard anything bad about them. I dont doubt your experience with them.
 

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