So I am in the process of building my first overland camping trailer. I am using an aluminum military service bed off a cucv. I have built a custom trailer frame for this to ride on and purchased a poly water tank that will ride in between the trailer frame and service bed frame right above the axle. What is the best way to keep the water in this tank from freezing on those cold nights in the mountains. I thought of a In tank heater but not sure of power this will use. I plan on having 200 watt solar and a battery bank but haven’t got that far on the build yet . Any advice on keeping the water and lines flowing. Would insulating around the tank help ? How about having the water system circulating through the hot water heater on a timed cycle? Any thoughts thanks.
How to keep your water from freezing ?
- Thread starter Otto14
- Start date
Teardropper
Well-known member
It's not really a problem because the mass of the water retains the ambient temperature –unless the temp stays below 32º. Then it's time to move.
That's why we build with wheels.
T
Agreed on the mass issue. If you really have that risk, a recirculating pump should be able to help a lot with very low energy use. Just moving it through the pipes should help.
Note... I spent many years living in the snow but don’t really have this particular problem, so this is theoretical. I keep water warm by living in the desert.
Note... I spent many years living in the snow but don’t really have this particular problem, so this is theoretical. I keep water warm by living in the desert.
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
They make RV water tank heaters.
www.ultraheat.com
AM-Model 0900 25 gal Tank Heater | UltraHeat
A little background and Info on our UltraHeat Class B RV Tank Heater
www.ultraheat.com
Alloy
Well-known member
Insulation will save multiples in heating energy (fuel & electricity). Avoid thermal tansfer i,e, the metal (and even wood) touching the tank.
XPS (expanded polystyrene) is the best insulation. It is 99% waterproof and it prerforms the same at 80F and 0F. I used 2" Formular 200 around my tanks. Celfort is the same, different brand.
Propex heater. Inexpensive easy to install and low amp draw. Blower is noisy though. A diverter (from dust collector parts) could direct the warm air under into the trailer or under the tank. The air from around the tank will be cold.
My choice for heat would be a diesel / propane (maybe an on demant water heater) boiler running a glycol/water mix with zones valves for loops under the tank and bed/tent. Routing of the PEX ( cross link polyethylene) tubing needs to be planned for.
Mass will work for a 3-4 days if day time temps are above 32F but once the water gets close to 32F it doesn't take much for exposed lines to freeze during the night. Best if there aren't any fittings ( except the drain) coming out the bottom of the tank. It is hard to insulate/keep lines on the bottom of a tank from freezing after the fact.
In winter 200 watts of solar will not keep up with 12VDC electric heating.
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
It takes 8.34 BTU per gallon to raise water 1°F, which is about 2.45 W-hr. He's in relatively mild Tennessee and hasn't said duration. For extending the shoulder season a month or two it wouldn't have to be a great deal of heat.
Trailer will be primarily used for base camp on hunting trips out west. May sit for up to a week at trail heads while I am in the mountains hunting and guiding. Mostly September and early October.. Temps can dip down into the 20’s at night frequently. I believe it’s a 36 gallon tank so with that volume I am guessing I shouldn’t have to worry about freezing in the tank. I will just concentrate on the lines and making them easily accessible and able to drain for when the trailer is sitting. I think I am going to run a propex heat source and try to direct some heat towards the the lines even if it’s minimal. The tank is sitting on a metal skid plate but I am going to look into the suggestion of XPS to get it off the metal. Thanks for the input, I am just hoping to avoid getting out of the mountains after a long hunt and looking forward to a hot shower and meal only to be meet with frozen water and wishing I had done something differently.
dreadlocks
Well-known member
if you can mount propex into same area as water tank you can use a passive intake and it will circulate heat in and out of same area as water and would work as a nice thermal buffer.. this is how I keep my lithium battery above freezing, my tanks are internal thankfully.
Coachgeo
Explorer
salt brine or RV pipe anti freeze tank to store heat ... aka... a spare tank highly insulated that pulls heat from either engine coolant or copper pipe wrapped on exhaust full of coolant.... Plumb to rubber coolant line (along with appropriate shut off valves) connects to tank on trailer that has two coil of hose in it. One is the hot coolant coming in.. other is the warm coolant coming out used to keep water tank from freezing. (or one coil of warm out and on central tank like in video the hot coolant looped back to truck thru) . surrounding these is salt or rv pipe coolant as the heat storage medium. The incoming hot coolant heats the storage medium... When parked you disconnect this from truck. Don't burn yourself. The loop of hose for warm coolant is essentially a heat exchanger.. it can either via small pump or thermosiphon.... move heat thru hose that runs at base and or around your water storage tank (all well insulated). This will keep it warm. Suggest tiny hose for moving the warm fluid around the water tank you want to keep from freezing. Guessing this would help the heat in the storage medium last longer and also not over heat your water storage.. leaving you with all hot water coming from your faucets.
similar concept video..
similar concept video..