Vicreo A Legarreta
Vicreo
Well it went puffff hahaha I was surprised it last to long, I was expecting it to go bad 2 week ago, now to get a good one.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC
Sent from my DROID BIONIC
How to make a cheap isolated dual-battery setup for $50
- Thread starter evldave
- Start date
Read the whole thread, I feel knowledge forcing its way into my brain.
I want to do this with one significant difference, I want the 2nd battery in the rear area of my 94 LandCruiser. This area is enclosed with the passenger area, and I am worried about explosive/corrosive gasses getting to the kids.
What do you all think about a relatively airtight plastic box with breather hoses that run outside (fuel door/other ideas?)? should the hoses run down (heavier than air gas) or up (lighter than air gas)?
I use the second to run my CPAP when camping, and probably other stuff in the future.
ART
I want to do this with one significant difference, I want the 2nd battery in the rear area of my 94 LandCruiser. This area is enclosed with the passenger area, and I am worried about explosive/corrosive gasses getting to the kids.
What do you all think about a relatively airtight plastic box with breather hoses that run outside (fuel door/other ideas?)? should the hoses run down (heavier than air gas) or up (lighter than air gas)?
I use the second to run my CPAP when camping, and probably other stuff in the future.
ART
dlichterman
Explorer
I'm in the process of building my system right now, and my friend who was helping me was sketched out by the cheap plastic box so I ordered a metal one from JEGS. Most seem to come with a really short vent hose, but AFAIK they vent hydrogen which is a light gas so it shouldn't really matter how it is done as long as you have the vent.
Cole
Expedition Leader
Long story short. There really is nothing to worry about with a battery in the cab. Batteries have been mounted inside the cab by manufacturers for many many decades.
Only a bad batteries end up venting, and they vent a harmless gas, especially in the non airtight space of a car.
Only a bad batteries end up venting, and they vent a harmless gas, especially in the non airtight space of a car.
daddyusmaximus
Explorer
I always thought this was the way to go. When I saw the thread, I knew I was right... Now I got a question.
.
How hot is too hot for a solenoid to get?
.
I just wired in my "house" battery, like in the OP (only with a switch, not always on with ignition) using a 185 amp constant duty solenoid I got from a camper supply. First try, after 10 min it was pretty hot to the touch. Both engine batteries and the house battery are Optima yellow tops. It IS wired up correctly, with 4ga wire. Big truck, the run is almost 20 ft.
.
Some one assure me I won't burn my truck down... I plan on testing it out in short increments, until I'm no longer worried.
.
How hot is too hot for a solenoid to get?
.
I just wired in my "house" battery, like in the OP (only with a switch, not always on with ignition) using a 185 amp constant duty solenoid I got from a camper supply. First try, after 10 min it was pretty hot to the touch. Both engine batteries and the house battery are Optima yellow tops. It IS wired up correctly, with 4ga wire. Big truck, the run is almost 20 ft.
.
Some one assure me I won't burn my truck down... I plan on testing it out in short increments, until I'm no longer worried.
dlichterman
Explorer
You won't burn your truck down.*
*I am not an electrician.
Got my install mostly finished up yesterday. Thanks for making this guide. I have one last thing to do(put the on circuit on a timer of some sort) but I will be set for camping next weekend.
All my pics here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dlichterman/sets/72157634932539462/with/9435853915/
Cole
Expedition Leader
Found this in the FAQ on the Cole Hersee site.
Link here. http://www.colehersee.com/home/faq/faq/solenoids/
dlichterman
Explorer
Finished the last piece today. I added a time delay relay to the ignition circuit, so that when I turn the truck on it will wait 10 minutes before energizing the solenoid. The delay is adjustable.
In case anyone wants to copy this, the part number is 821TD10H-UNI and can be purchased here: http://www.zorotools.com/g/00062834/k-821TD10H-UNI/
In case anyone wants to copy this, the part number is 821TD10H-UNI and can be purchased here: http://www.zorotools.com/g/00062834/k-821TD10H-UNI/
dlichterman
Explorer
Two reasons
- Prevents joining on start
- Lets the alternator charge the main battery for a little bit before joining
I've also got a 3-way switch with on(auto, with the timer), off, and on(manual join for self jump)
FJRanger
I like getting lost...
Great thread, I've just finished reading it and am still left with a question...s
Someone brought up the topic regarding two engine batteries, but I don't recall seeing a solution. My rig is 24v start and everything else is 12v. So my batteries run in series while starting and through a solenoid which switches them to parallel to run all the accessories. I'd like to run a 3rd house battery to run the frig, lights and charge all our electrical doodads. The goal is to eventually have a panel mounted on the roofrack to do the charging through a nice MPPT controller for those extended trips without having to start the vehicle.
How do I go about setting up the third battery? How do I keep it in parallel...not tripling the voltage during starting? Do I need to hook it up in parallel to one of the engine batteries and the starting solenoid will do the rest? Just trying to get my brain to wrap around this concept
Someone brought up the topic regarding two engine batteries, but I don't recall seeing a solution. My rig is 24v start and everything else is 12v. So my batteries run in series while starting and through a solenoid which switches them to parallel to run all the accessories. I'd like to run a 3rd house battery to run the frig, lights and charge all our electrical doodads. The goal is to eventually have a panel mounted on the roofrack to do the charging through a nice MPPT controller for those extended trips without having to start the vehicle.
How do I go about setting up the third battery? How do I keep it in parallel...not tripling the voltage during starting? Do I need to hook it up in parallel to one of the engine batteries and the starting solenoid will do the rest? Just trying to get my brain to wrap around this concept
Dan Grec
Expedition Leader
That's fantastic, thanks. I will absolutely be doing the same when I wire mine.
Interesting that timer runs on 12-240V and doesn't care if it's AC or DC.
I wonder if I can find a much cheaper, simpler one that's purely 12V DC....
-Dan
dlichterman
Explorer
There are cheaper ones on ebay or amazon, but they are noname chinese knockoffs and they looked a bit sketchy(let alone the documentation being pretty much non-existent). Decided it was worth spending a little more for the peace of mind that the relay won't catch my truck on fire. Now the rest of the work I did.......
daddyusmaximus
Explorer
Thanks. I like this useful tidbit as well.
"Are there any special mounting instructions for solenoids?
Electromechanical solenoids should be mounted on a non-vibrating surface such as a fender well or firewall. They should not be mounted on a surface that vibrates such as an engine, as this may reduce the lifetime of the component.
Continuous duty solenoids should be mounted in an area that has ventilation, as the coil circuit normally generates heat. Our research shows that it might be best to mount the solenoid dimpled end down. Electromechanical switches can over time build up deposits due to arcing. By orienting your solenoid as recommended, deposits will have a tendency to fall to the bottom, clear of the contacts, thus prolonging the life of the solenoid."
I should have checked it out more on line... I already had it mounted, parallel to the ground, on the underside of my cab. I guess when I get time, I'll add an 90* angle to it.
