How to make a cheap isolated dual-battery setup for $50

4RunAmok

Explorer
Frame/Body grounds by themselves are NEVER sufficient. You're relying on too many other things.

Always run a ground of equal gauge from one battery to the other.
 

Mcstiggens

New member
Hold on to yer hats gang, it's not a ground issue!

Well, call me a dufus but I figured it out. The problem turned out to be the 12g wire to the fuse box. I had connected it to one of the only two 10 amp fuses with an add'a'fuse, (because the add'a'fuse cautions to only use their product with no more than a 10amp fuse) and it turns out those two 10 amp sockets were for the turn signals. Therefore, they have the flashers involved which well.....I guess thats obvious. So I hooked it up to the neighboring 15 amp and now its working.

Lessons learned, carry on, thanks to you all for chiming in!:ylsmoke:

Mcstiggens
 

Mcstiggens

New member
Understood, however.....

Frame/Body grounds by themselves are NEVER sufficient. You're relying on too many other things.

Always run a ground of equal gauge from one battery to the other.


While I believe your advice to be good and true, my frame ground does work fine (for now) so I'll stick with that unless things change for me.
I even went down to my local automotive electric specialty shop and he saw no reason why my ground location should matter. Anyway, thanks for the advise.

Mcstiggs
 
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4RunAmok

Explorer
One has questions, the other doesn't. User preference.

You did the frame ground correctly, by grinding a clean spot, so you shouldn't have issue. If you ever plan to use things that are sensitive to noise issues on your Aux battery, like a ham radio or cb, you might find it best running a ground home to the other battery.
 

RangerXLT

Adventurer
Ya'll think to much, and $50.00 is too much money...

http://www.solar-electric.com/blseabaswon3.html?gclid=CIef3q3I-rgCFS_ZQgodTxkAGg

Get it done for under $30.00. When we want to isolate the fridge, it's as simple as turning off the switch. The Power Wagon 12K winch really likes having 2100 amps available when needed, and this switch can handle the load when the batteries are combined. The Group 65 Diehard Platinum under the hood and Group 31M in the bed are combined with 2/0 welding cable - no isolator, nothing fancy, just a big switch that can handle up to 600A for 5 minutes, 350A continuous load. We've had no trouble with this for years now, and I never expect to. As an old Coasty, I've seen these switches used for years in the marine environment.

Mark

Any responses to this? Just curios.
 

evldave

Expedition Trophy Winner
Any responses to this? Just curios.

This is an alternate solution. One that is the most common marine dual-battery way of doing things...this works for A LOT of people, and has for years.

Somewhere in the thread is a discussion on this...if you trust yourself to flip the switch (both to engage, then disengage the batteries) it functions exactly the same as a solenoid. Personally, I made the decision that I wanted something more automatic (less chance of me forgetting). Same results, different methodology.

It's ultimately up to you - whichever works best for you will work best for you :)
 

dlichterman

Explorer
This is an alternate solution. One that is the most common marine dual-battery way of doing things...this works for A LOT of people, and has for years.

Somewhere in the thread is a discussion on this...if you trust yourself to flip the switch (both to engage, then disengage the batteries) it functions exactly the same as a solenoid. Personally, I made the decision that I wanted something more automatic (less chance of me forgetting). Same results, different methodology.

It's ultimately up to you - whichever works best for you will work best for you :)

I forgot the last time out and left the switch in the manual override position. That's why I have it set up for automatic.
 

crawler#976

Expedition Leader
Get to camp, open the hood, and switch it Off. When we're ready to go, open the hood, switch it On.

It's doesn't get much easier than that does it? Well, I guess it does with the automatic systems, but I haven't seen one that can handle the load for the winch - a Warn 15K is a power hungry monster...
 

4RunAmok

Explorer
At work, we don't hook up winches through switches. They go directly to the battery. No fuse, no circuit breaker, no solenoid, no switch.

If I was concerned about it, I would use one of the switches you linked, to Mark. If I'm winching, I'm already out of the vehicle, no hassle hitting the switch in this case.

But I wouldn't rely on a manual switch for combining battery banks, too forgetful.
 

RangerXLT

Adventurer
Get to camp, open the hood, and switch it Off. When we're ready to go, open the hood, switch it On.

It's doesn't get much easier than that does it? Well, I guess it does with the automatic systems, but I haven't seen one that can handle the load for the winch - a Warn 15K is a power hungry monster...

Could this be mounted inside the cab then? Also does this allow you to jump the truck then? I like it because it seems more simple to me. If your not utilizing the house battery as much then it seems better. Also it seems to address the issue of the batteries discharging quickly if the starter battery is dead. Thanks for the inpit
 

crawler#976

Expedition Leader
Sure, it can go where ever you want it to. In my case, the G31M battery is in the bed of the truck, the switch near the main battery. The switch is sealed, so it can't be used as a jumper location if that's what you mean.

Sent via gigawatt laser...
 

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4RunAmok

Explorer
NOT USING the "house" or "aux" battery very often is exactly why you want to have an automated system. A battery sitting idle will lose charge, and it will sulfate. Charging the aux battery, even with only your daily commute will keep it from sulfating. Even better to have a solar panel keeping it topped off.
 

dlichterman

Explorer
NOT USING the "house" or "aux" battery very often is exactly why you want to have an automated system. A battery sitting idle will lose charge, and it will sulfate. Charging the aux battery, even with only your daily commute will keep it from sulfating. Even better to have a solar panel keeping it topped off.

Inadvertent anti-sulfating haha. Truck sits out on the driveway and keeps the aux topped off if there is sun.
 

RangerXLT

Adventurer
NOT USING the "house" or "aux" battery very often is exactly why you want to have an automated system. A battery sitting idle will lose charge, and it will sulfate. Charging the aux battery, even with only your daily commute will keep it from sulfating. Even better to have a solar panel keeping it topped off.

Ok I gotcha. Well I had planned on doing a solar panel as well. I have bought my charge controller, just looking for a good panel. The most expensive part of this project is the new battery.
 

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