Does this(NASA rating) also apply to stranded wire? thanks, Brian
How to Modify Vehicle Wiring - Starting with the DO NOTs
- Thread starter Big_Geek
- Start date
Does this(NASA rating) also apply to stranded wire? thanks, Brian
toddz69
Explorer
NASA 8739.4 doesn't specify whether it's only for stranded or solid wire, but the illustration shows it with solid (as referenced in the article). I've worked with NASA specs for many years and I don't recall ever using a linesman's wrap with stranded wire.
Todd Z.
Inyo_man
Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
This is the "go to standard" for backcountry electrical projects/repairs IMHO.
Zeiderman
Adventurer
Yes but.......never have done NASA spec work, but isn't it the connection that's important from a non-pulling apart stand point? I'll stand down from a professional, but would really like to know as this is my go to wrap and solder for both solid and strand.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
fog cutter
Adventurer
link no work for me???
thebigblue
Adventurer
A guess the HAZET Crimping pliers 4658-10 would be fine for a nice crimp?:
http://www.hazet.de/produktkatalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_2295_2295100&products_id=896129515
http://www.hazet.de/produktkatalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_2295_2295100&products_id=896129515
Happy Joe
Apprentice Geezer
I have to interject; properly sized and crimped connectors are reliable. Note that the crimpers should be regularly inspected for wear and have a sample pull tested (on a test machine) to assure that each crimper/crimp position is making a gas tight crimp.
Junk/Chinese/home multipurpose crimpers are typically not a good idea. Having done production class 3 wiring I have a variety of manufacturer approved crimpers to use (some were quite spendy).
Each terminal brand and part number should be checked and the manufacturer's wire size/crimper/crimp recommendations adhered to.
If you want a watertight connection use waterproof connectors and or use adhesive coated heat shrink.
In the absence of the proper crimper a (typically unapproved) method is to solder the terminal to the wire.
If soldering use a non corrosive/no-clean flux.
Note; improper stripping can lead to wire failure.
Enjoy!
Junk/Chinese/home multipurpose crimpers are typically not a good idea. Having done production class 3 wiring I have a variety of manufacturer approved crimpers to use (some were quite spendy).
Each terminal brand and part number should be checked and the manufacturer's wire size/crimper/crimp recommendations adhered to.
If you want a watertight connection use waterproof connectors and or use adhesive coated heat shrink.
In the absence of the proper crimper a (typically unapproved) method is to solder the terminal to the wire.
If soldering use a non corrosive/no-clean flux.
Note; improper stripping can lead to wire failure.
Enjoy!
javajoe79
Fabricator
I am a bit late here but here is my take on some stuff......
I use connectors like that when needed but I slide the plastic housing off then crimp with the correct pliers, slide the housing back on, then cover the wire to housing junction with sealed heat shrink. I would also not use spade connectors that aren't completely covered due to the possibility of something shorting across them as shown in that pic.
I do the same except with bare butt connectors. Never ever Scotch Loc!
Exactly how I do it. You have a sealed connection that remains flexible. Win Win.
I use connectors like that when needed but I slide the plastic housing off then crimp with the correct pliers, slide the housing back on, then cover the wire to housing junction with sealed heat shrink. I would also not use spade connectors that aren't completely covered due to the possibility of something shorting across them as shown in that pic.
Kevin108
Explorer
I'm a guy who keeps a soldering iron and shrink wrap in my vehicle's toolbox. The only thing better than solder and shrink wrap is to run a full wire. I agree on most of the OP's assertations, but updated them with my own findings.
1. Quick Splice Connectors - They aren't UV stable or designed to get wet. The sun will cause them to crumble in a matter of years and an electrical charge plus water quickly begins to corrode. However, I have no issue using these on interior wiring that will not be exposed to the weather. While the blades may cut individual wires, the wire ends are still contacting the blade and are unlikely to cause problems, in my experience.
2. Butt Splice Connectors - Again, inside only, and typically only with 14 gauge wire. The smaller stuff is hard to get a solid crimp on.
3. Crimp connectors - I have no problem using these. I only use them for ring terminals and insulated spade connectors. What most people don't know is that the plastic coating over the crimp sleeve is often shrink wrap. I typically only use these to attach grounds or to the the accessory terminal on the battery, or for wiring in relays.
4. Connecting to a Power Source Without Circuit Protection - Inline fuses are cheap insurance. Use 'em!
5. Weatherproofing - Definitely. The connectors you showed are great. I've even used trailer connectors with good results. I had a light bar on a pickup years ago that the inspector didn't like, so while in line, I cut the pigtail coming from the roof and put the light bar in the bed. On the way home, I grabbed a short trailer wiring harness and used two of the four prongs to wire things back together while leaving them safely removable.
Another never: If you have to use electrical tape, never use cheap electrical tape!
1. Quick Splice Connectors - They aren't UV stable or designed to get wet. The sun will cause them to crumble in a matter of years and an electrical charge plus water quickly begins to corrode. However, I have no issue using these on interior wiring that will not be exposed to the weather. While the blades may cut individual wires, the wire ends are still contacting the blade and are unlikely to cause problems, in my experience.
2. Butt Splice Connectors - Again, inside only, and typically only with 14 gauge wire. The smaller stuff is hard to get a solid crimp on.
3. Crimp connectors - I have no problem using these. I only use them for ring terminals and insulated spade connectors. What most people don't know is that the plastic coating over the crimp sleeve is often shrink wrap. I typically only use these to attach grounds or to the the accessory terminal on the battery, or for wiring in relays.
4. Connecting to a Power Source Without Circuit Protection - Inline fuses are cheap insurance. Use 'em!
5. Weatherproofing - Definitely. The connectors you showed are great. I've even used trailer connectors with good results. I had a light bar on a pickup years ago that the inspector didn't like, so while in line, I cut the pigtail coming from the roof and put the light bar in the bed. On the way home, I grabbed a short trailer wiring harness and used two of the four prongs to wire things back together while leaving them safely removable.
Another never: If you have to use electrical tape, never use cheap electrical tape!