how to properly hook up power in pop-up camper battery

[continentaldrifter]

Hello, we bought a new 2011 Dodge 2500 mega cab and am fitting it to my slide in pop up. What is the best way to properly hook up the power leads to my camper battery, so as to charge while traveling and not drain truck batteries while parked/camping? Should it run through a solenioid? Where to source power reliably?

 

[Northern Explorer]

I think this is the same charge controller I have. Just run a wire from the vehicle battery positive to the charge controller (with a fuse inbetween) and then to your camper battery.

 

[pods8]

I think this is the same charge controller I have. Just run a wire from the vehicle battery positive to the charge controller (with a fuse inbetween) and then to your camper battery.

FYI: You should have two fuses in the wire, one at each end as close to each battery as practical.

That separator will work, a regular solenoid, marine voltage sensing relays, etc. lots of ways to do it. Just run a healthy gauge wire to minimize voltage drops so you actually get good charging of your aux. battery.

 

[dwh]

It's all explained here:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...e-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50?

(Note: You will need beer.)

 

[Pest]

The battery in our camper charges via the easy route... use the trailer plug in the rear if it has the tow package. That plug already has leads for charging a battery and is cut off when the vehicle is off. If we ever need to pull a trailer at the same time and still use the plug to charge the camper battery (right now I just let the solar charge the battery if we're towing), then I'll fashion up a Y-splitter to plug them both in. I've never seen a Y-splitter for sale, but it wouldn't be hard to make one with the plug parts and some wire.

 

[pods8]

The battery in our camper charges via the easy route... use the trailer plug in the rear if it has the tow package. That plug already has leads for charging a battery and is cut off when the vehicle is off. If we ever need to pull a trailer at the same time and still use the plug to charge the camper battery (right now I just let the solar charge the battery if we're towing), then I'll fashion up a Y-splitter to plug them both in. I've never seen a Y-splitter for sale, but it wouldn't be hard to make one with the plug parts and some wire.

Wire gauge isn't that large usually which will limit how well you can charge due to voltage drop. It can work okay but there are better ways (ie a dedicated larger gauge wire).

 

[continentaldrifter]

ok.thanks, just needed the diagram.

 

[Pest]

Wire gauge isn't that large usually which will limit how well you can charge due to voltage drop. It can work okay but there are better ways (ie a dedicated larger gauge wire).

True, but like I said, it's the easy route, and with the solar we have in addition, no problems.

 

[dwh]

which will limit how well you can charge due to voltage drop

Not necessarily. The amount of voltage drop depends on the amount of load.
As the battery fills up, the resistance rises, and the amp flow goes down.
As the amp flow (the load) becomes less, so does the voltage drop.

So voltage drop isn't that critical when charging a battery that is drawn down a good ways, and it becomes less critical as the voltage of the battery rises, and the amp flow and voltage drop become less.

As long as the wire size is sufficient to eliminate the voltage drop near the top of the battery's charging cycle - say if the wire is big enough that there is no voltage drop with a voltage above 14v and amperage under 3a - then the battery will get to its full charge voltage anyway.

 

[Chainslap]

So what's a good size gauge to run from the truck to camper? I'm about to wire my FWC up to the truck and have 8-2 shielded wire sitting in the garage. FWC used 10-2 from factory. I'll also be using a Blue Sea ACR. Should I go thicker or will the 8ga suffice?

 

[dwh]

With low voltage, especially DC, bigger is always better. But the #8 will be enough.

Alternator/voltage regulator setups are horrible battery chargers anyway, unless you get a special "battery charging" regulator. You might have a million amp alternator but only see 10a flowing as the voltage regulator holds the bus voltage around 14v and the battery (and wire) resistance limits how many amps can flow at that voltage.

 

[homemade]

http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-IGD200HP...tery-Isolator/dp/B00316GNYM/ref=pd_sbs_auto_2


I ordered one of these, mostly so I can charge a deep cycle battery for a trolling motor. It looks different than what I think you guys are describing. I think will have to be mounted in the engine compartment. Alternator in, batteries out? Or is this not a good idea?

 

[pods8]

http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-IGD200HP...tery-Isolator/dp/B00316GNYM/ref=pd_sbs_auto_2


I ordered one of these, mostly so I can charge a deep cycle battery for a trolling motor. It looks different than what I think you guys are describing. I think will have to be mounted in the engine compartment. Alternator in, batteries out? Or is this not a good idea?

That is diode based, it'll take a voltage drop across it which will then be unavailable for actually charging your batteries. Not a fan personally.

 

[homemade]

That is diode based, it'll take a voltage drop across it which will then be unavailable for actually charging your batteries. Not a fan personally.

Thanks, I cancelled the order. Instead I'll go the Pest method and I have a 30W solar panel to help the battery along some when camped.

 

[dags]

Is using the car charging method while driving home enough to maintain the health of an AGM?