Hub Carnage

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Ah yes striped apron engineering
if you dont have the special tool
********** it with a hammer

It took my custom tool and a pneumatic impact gun to get it off. Whomever whacked it on was a pretty strong fellow.

When I first got the truck I had to take the right side hub apart to replace a bad lug nut and had noticed the damaged lock nut and thought "damn, did I do that", but today was the first time I pulled the left hub and it was exactly the same - but no way I could have done that, I was paying particular attention this time.

At least I may have a good working theory for why the left hub was much harder to spin. :)
 

gait

Explorer
I wonder what the "manipulation with punch and hammer" was doing. Most seem to be more radial than circumferential. I would expect circumferential if tightening or loosening.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
I wonder what the "manipulation with punch and hammer" was doing. Most seem to be more radial than circumferential. I would expect circumferential if tightening or loosening.

I think it is just the result of the angle you have to go in at.

I made a very amateur video of me testing the re-assembled driver side wheel hub -


Does anyone keep a spare set of wheel bearings on hand? Looks like the inner is a 32012 (60x95x25) and the outer is a 32011 (55x90x23). Wondering if there is a good inexpensive source for spares.
 
Last edited:

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
I wonder what the "manipulation with punch and hammer" was doing. Most seem to be more radial than circumferential. I would expect circumferential if tightening or loosening.

That truck did spend quite a bit of time in South America, so maybe it had a brake job or bearing repack down there.

I for one am certainly guilty of using hammer and chisel to break loose an overly tight bearing nut on the side of the road, so the chisel marks don't surprise me. I'd have stuck the chisel into a handy hole if it was available rather than banging around the outside.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
I have to say... when it comes to bearings I always use name brand (normally Japanese) ones. Have used the cheaper ones in the past but found them not to be as reliable.
There are also numerous bearing quality designations, so making sure you are getting an appropriate bearing for the job can involve a bit of research.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
That truck did spend quite a bit of time in South America, so maybe it had a brake job or bearing repack down there.

I for one am certainly guilty of using hammer and chisel to break loose an overly tight bearing nut on the side of the road, so the chisel marks don't surprise me. I'd have stuck the chisel into a handy hole if it was available rather than banging around the outside.

I talked with Doug and he said the only hub services had been done by the Mitsu dealership stateside. A bit disappointing but not entirely a surprise that this is a result of a dealer service.
 

dlh62c

Explorer
I've sourced bearings locally from a place called Bearing Headquarters. Bearings, races and seals should have a NSN number on them. Often I've carried a set of used wheel bearings if they aren't in too bad of shape.

A brass drift is a handy tool to have around to drive out bearing races from hubs.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Aye.

In a pinch, another way is to ruin a steel drift punch by annealing the end so it's softer than the race.

I actually just picked up some nice pieces of brass rod from the metal scrap yard.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Here's what my spring pin removal tool looks like. Not as pretty as the genuine Fuso one, but a lot less expensive!

You need a M22-1.5 nut - commonly used on Mazdas as spindle nuts, also some Fords like the Escort. Buying the nuts new can be pricey, but you can find them in any pick-and-pull junk yard with ease.

hUUuKF3h.jpg
 
Last edited:

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Sorry to sound dumb, but what spring pin are you talking about?

The rear leaf springs on the FG are held on with 3 spring pins. The one on the bottom of the spring shackle can be knocked out, but the front spring pin and the one on the top of the shackle have to be pulled with a slide hammer.

wUXQgYf.png
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,604
Messages
2,907,734
Members
230,759
Latest member
Tdavis8695
Top