Hub Carnage

[gait]

well done, took me days to identify the thread,

another version, just what was available, the hole in the banjo bolt was useful for a screwdriver, by the side of the road, no puller, a longer bolt with a slide wasn't needed fortunately.

 

[blackduck]

Sorry to sound dumb, but what spring pin are you talking about?

geez owen ??? :Wow1:

Apologies for my question in advance

but is that welding ???

 

[SkiFreak]

geez owen ??? :Wow1:

Apologies for my question in advance

but is that welding ???

Don't know why you are asking me that question Stu... it's not my special tool. Probably should be asking pugslyyy.

I am guessing that I will not be making such a tool, given that I no longer have leaf springs on my truck.
That's also my excuse for not knowing what spring pin you were talking about.

 

[HazMan]

I used a nut and some big washers that the pin fit through.

Just put the washers on then the nut. As you tighten the nut it pulls the pin out.

 

[pugslyyy]

I used a nut and some big washers that the pin fit through.

Just put the washers on then the nut. As you tighten the nut it pulls the pin out.

I think there are a number of ways you can do it - for me the challenge was finding the correct size nut (and being too cheap to buy a new one from the auto parts store)

 

[pugslyyy]

Just an update, I've been working my way around the truck. Front axle is sorted, as is the rear passenger hub and suspension. I will hopefully get the driver side of the rear axle set up this weekend. I still have to figure out how to pull the front spring pin at the driver side - there is a box in the way. The rear passenger hub was loose whilst the rear driver hub was tight and a bit muddy.

Quite a lot of work for a 60k service, but mostly due to the type of use that my truck has seen. The rear spring pins are in tough shape because they were not accessible to lube. Fixing this by installing 90 degree zerks. I'm also replacing the main suspension bushings at the rear while I'm at it.

I had some spare LR coil spring spacers that I turned down, one to 109mm and the other to 99mm for pressing in the rear bearing races. I found some good replacement bearings for not a lot on ebay so decided to swap them out - but I will keep the old ones as spares.

 

[pugslyyy]

...and I'm finally done with the 60k service (I think/hope). drag link done, tie rod done, suspension pins and bushings done, all 4 hubs done, all fluids changed (crank case, transmission, transfer case, front diff, rear diff).

I've eyeballed the alignment, and will check it again once I put the wheels back on the ground.

The two biggest issues were servicing the rear spring pins (because they had never been, the service body boxes are actually in the way) and I had to put the tie rod on my lathe and trim a quarter inch off each end so that the aftermarket (greasable) tie rod ends would fit.

Will it make any difference? Who knows, but I feel better having looked at everything. Both hubs on the passenger side were too loose, and both hubs on the driver side were too tight. Hopefully, like Goldilocks, they are all "just right" now.

 

[pugslyyy]

Rear leaf spring pin bushing. Don't be the guy who doesn't grease his leaf spring pins for 60000 miles of harsh driving. Replacing them was fairly easy. Stick the replacement bushings in your freezer and push the pins out with a press. Then wrap the shackle in tin foil and bake it on your grill for an hour or so. Then, using welding gloves to handle the shackle, press the cold bushing into the hot shackle and you are done.

Here's what a "good" but used one should look like - note the texture



Here's what mine looked like. Note how it is worn smooth inside.