Hydraulic Disc Brakes

RyanPont

Adventurer
I have a set of Hydro brakes on my Fisher. When I apply the brakes hard, should the back tire lock up, like it would on regular disc brakes or rim brakes? The brakes slow me down, but it isnt as fast as I would expect, also there is a squeal when I apply the rear brakes hard.
 

Christophe Noel

Expedition Leader
You should certainly be able to lock up your rear wheel. Rather easily, in fact. There could be a number of things at play here. Your caliper could be improperly positioned, the line could need to be bled, the disc could be in need of a proper cleaning, etc. Is this a new bike? If so, it could even be something as simple as letting the pads seat into the disc.
 

Christophe Noel

Expedition Leader
The bleed alone may not do the trick. But, any shop capable of doing a proper bleed will be able to make sure the other adjustments are correct.
 

goodtimes

Expedition Poseur
So how long does it take a set of pads to seat? I have to get into mine pretty deep before it will lock the rear tire up (on asphalt).

The bike is about as new as they get - 1 short (5 mile?) ride, only grabbed the brakes half a dozen times or so . . .
 

Navman

Adventurer
It should not take long at all. When I change pads I can lock up my wheels almost immediately.
 

Christophe Noel

Expedition Leader
FYI - For those using Avid hydros, the bed-in process they staunchly recommend is hectic, but sometimes very necessary.

Get up to 15 mph and quickly slow to 3 mph, but DO NOT stop compeletely. Quickly repeat this process 20 times not allowing time for the rotor to cool. Then, repeat this procedure ten more times getting up to 20 mph.

Let the bike rest and the rotor cool, then repeat the above with the other brake.

Ya, I know, it's stupid but that's what their techs say is the proper method. So, what happens if you don't do it this way? You get the infamous "trurky gobble." Your rear brake may howl and vibrate with enough force to rattle your molars out of your skull. We go through this in the shop quite often. Dealing with it right now on my Avid Elixer CR brakes.
 

goodtimes

Expedition Poseur
FYI - For those using Avid hydros, the bed-in process they staunchly recommend is hectic, but sometimes very necessary.

Get up to 15 mph and quickly slow to 3 mph, but DO NOT stop compeletely. Quickly repeat this process 20 times not allowing time for the rotor to cool. Then, repeat this procedure ten more times getting up to 20 mph.

Let the bike rest and the rotor cool, then repeat the above with the other brake.

Ya, I know, it's stupid but that's what their techs say is the proper method. So, what happens if you don't do it this way? You get the infamous "trurky gobble." Your rear brake may howl and vibrate with enough force to rattle your molars out of your skull. We go through this in the shop quite often. Dealing with it right now on my Avid Elixer CR brakes.

Not surprisingly, this is actually quite similar to a commonly cited method of bedding in disk brakes on a car/truck/van.

It's also appropriate in the fact that the bike in question (ref: my earlier post) does indeed have Avid Juicy 3s on it.
 

Christophe Noel

Expedition Leader
With Avid brakes many guys assume their bed-in was fine, quick and easy resulting in more than satisfactory stopping performance. Then...they get the visit from the goose. That rear brake squawk that vibrates your eyeballs. A quick google of Avid brake Turky gobble can be quite entertaining. Even when you call Avid tech service and start the chat with, "My rear brake...." They usually finish your sentence for you, "Vibrates and squawks?"
 

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