I got here as fast as I could - '04 Suburban Z71

[RikFlairWoo]

Great thread! Did replacing your sway bar links and bushings help the ride quality at all? I just recently replaced the old stock shocks with Fox 2.0s, and while the ride is better, it doesn't seem like it's as good as it should be. Still feeling some jolting/shuddering over what seems like minor bumps. hoping I'm not going to regret not getting 5100s. Cheers

 

[tbisaacs]

Great thread! Did replacing your sway bar links and bushings help the ride quality at all? I just recently replaced the old stock shocks with Fox 2.0s, and while the ride is better, it doesn't seem like it's as good as it should be. Still feeling some jolting/shuddering over what seems like minor bumps. hoping I'm not going to regret not getting 5100s. Cheers

Yes! Immediately noticeable!

How are your bump stops?


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[boss324]

Yes! Immediately noticeable!

How are your bump stops?


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Exactly what I was going to ask! Replace your bumpstops I bet they are shot!

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[rayra]

Got a noticeable improvement in ride quality in mine, when I replaced and fully lubed all the steering and sway bar attachments and bushings. Even with the changed keys / increased angle. And I haven't even done anything to my control arm bushings yet. Except shoot some silicone lubricant at them where I could.
That and doing the intermediate steering shaft clunk fix and it's getting real smoooooth.

 

[boss324]

Got a noticeable improvement in ride quality in mine, when I replaced and fully lubed all the steering and sway bar attachments and bushings. Even with the changed keys / increased angle. And I haven't even done anything to my control arm bushings yet. Except shoot some silicone lubricant at them where I could.
That and doing the intermediate steering shaft clunk fix and it's getting real smoooooth.

I concur lube and new bushings gave me back ride quality as well. My bumpstops literally crumbled in my hand. That alone helped with ride quality and a good first step. But the bushings on the endlinks and swaybars are pretty inexpensive I'd replace all those at same time. I just swap mine out along with the new Rare Parts tie rod this past weekend and made my ride new again.

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[RikFlairWoo]

Got a noticeable improvement in ride quality in mine, when I replaced and fully lubed all the steering and sway bar attachments and bushings. Even with the changed keys / increased angle. And I haven't even done anything to my control arm bushings yet. Except shoot some silicone lubricant at them where I could.
That and doing the intermediate steering shaft clunk fix and it's getting real smoooooth.

That's very good to hear. mine still rides a bit rough. Could you elaborate on the steering shaft clunk fix? Thanks

 

[RikFlairWoo]

Yes! Immediately noticeable!

How are your bump stops?


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Ok that is great news. I have not looked at my bump stops closely (or in daylight for that matter) but I would imagine they are in poor shape at best.

 

[rayra]

That's very good to hear. mine still rides a bit rough. Could you elaborate on the steering shaft clunk fix? Thanks

Lots of vids on youtube about it. Basically it's a clunk felt thru the steerign wheel and it comes down to the slip joint where the steering wheel shaft connects to the intermediate steerign shaft, which passes thru the firewall and then connects to the shaft coming out of the steering box. It's meant to collapse in case of a major head-on accident. The grease on the slip joint dries out, migrates, things get loose and 'clunk'. You remove the 15mm bolt on the shaft near the #3/#5 spark plug, carefully pull the shafts apart, and then work the shaft that passes thru the firewall in and out several times to redistribute the grease. That's the simple / free fix, anyway. You can get a new replacement intermediate shaft on rockauto for a reasonable price.

 

[RikFlairWoo]

Lots of vids on youtube about it. Basically it's a clunk felt thru the steerign wheel and it comes down to the slip joint where the steering wheel shaft connects to the intermediate steerign shaft, which passes thru the firewall and then connects to the shaft coming out of the steering box. It's meant to collapse in case of a major head-on accident. The grease on the slip joint dries out, migrates, things get loose and 'clunk'. You remove the 15mm bolt on the shaft near the #3/#5 spark plug, carefully pull the shafts apart, and then work the shaft that passes thru the firewall in and out several times to redistribute the grease. That's the simple / free fix, anyway. You can get a new replacement intermediate shaft on rockauto for a reasonable price.

Ok that is good to know, thank you for the info.

 

[tbisaacs]

Ok that is good to know, thank you for the info.

Good luck!


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[tbisaacs]

Packed up the rig and took the family and dog down to the Washington coast this weekend. Once again, amazed at how much stuff we can squeeze in and how easy it is to soak up the miles.

I made my own 6mm -> ARB connector using a ring adapter cable from goal zero allowing me to reliably run the fridge at 12v. The fridge sipped power all weekend. 1-3 watts at idle and < 50 watts when cycling.

After 2 days I still had 80% power remaining. Curious to see what kind of life I get when it gets hot here in Washington

Highlight of the weekend:

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[Jelorian]

Nice that you were able to get out. So your ARB fridge runs solely off the Goal Zero? Love the pic of the bald eagle.

 

[tbisaacs]

Nice that you were able to get out. So your ARB fridge runs solely off the Goal Zero? Love the pic of the bald eagle.

Yep. I've also got a new AGM battery in my rig if I need a bit more juice. Planning on plugging in a renogy 100w panel for a 4 day trip this summer. Should keep the the goal zero topped up.


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[boll_rig]

Wow, nabbed a heck of a shot there. What kind of lens were you using?

Kind of amazed that the fridge only ate 20% but I guess you're right with the weather as it was. Ive been looking into getting a fridge just can't decide on what model.

 

[tbisaacs]

Wow, nabbed a heck of a shot there. What kind of lens were you using? .

Thanks! Canon 5D mark II w/24-105mm F/4L.




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