I have a REALLY stupid Max-Coupler question...
- Thread starter matthewp
- Start date
Abel Villesca
Explorer
I rarely have help and it isn't super difficult. Just raise the trailer side high enough that it will be just over the tow vehicle side and back up until they are aligned. Lower the trailer side of the coupler into the tow vehicle side. It some times requires moving either the tow vehicle or trailer forward or back by pushing either one to get them aligned perfectly. I've found those tennis ball on a telescoping rod with a magnetic base gizmos useful in backing the tow vehicle to the trailer in the correct alignment.
The biggest problem is that the joint is not "floppy". The stiffness makes the alignment difficult but not impossible. The best way I have found is to put the hitch in the Vic receiver first and back up till there is the perfect amount of room to bearly get the other side started. The rest is moving the trailer around. For this reason I have a wheel on the trailer jack.
I only use the coupler on my small expo trailer. It is the price paid for the excellent off road characteristics that type hitch allows.
A wheeled tongue jack is the way to go. Any thought of a pad giving more stability is soon lost after the first use.
I only use the coupler on my small expo trailer. It is the price paid for the excellent off road characteristics that type hitch allows.
A wheeled tongue jack is the way to go. Any thought of a pad giving more stability is soon lost after the first use.
Aspen Trails Trailers
Supporting Sponsor
They are touchy. I saw a guy at Overland Expo mess with his for almost and hour with three people helping him. One of the main problems is that most home built and some of the manufacturers have way too much tongue weight and moving the trailer is almost impossible in the dirt. His problem was that his trailer was headed down hill and the wheels were chocked. The lock and roll is much easier to work with I think. I have tried both and like the new lock and roll much better. Not as quiet by any means. Both do a great job off road, but hooking them up in certain conditions is a pain in the bottom.
Bob
www.aspenXtrails.com
Home of the strongest, most trail worthy
Off Road Tear Drop made
Bob
www.aspenXtrails.com
Home of the strongest, most trail worthy
Off Road Tear Drop made
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Bob
I think you need to look at this video, your time scales seem to be inaccurate.
Aspen Trails Trailers
Supporting Sponsor
I agree it looks very simple in the video, again your video shows it on flat paved ground already aligned. A little different in the dirt with a loaded trailer. He actually tried both scenarios, I think he ended up with the latter. Great hitch no question and I offer them as well, but I think the lock and roll is much easier off road. I try to never unhook mine if possible, but sometimes you have to.
Bob
www.aspenXtrails.com
Home of the strongest, most trailworthy
Off Road Tear Drop made.
Bob
www.aspenXtrails.com
Home of the strongest, most trailworthy
Off Road Tear Drop made.
matthewp
Combat Truck Monkey
Martyn,
Thanks very much for the video. After a second look, I was wondering if that middle pin can be released without "major" reassembly required. That first method shown in the video looks like it will do fine for me. I know my backing skills can work with that.
Thanks for the info on the Lock-n-Roll Bob. I have to admit I prefer the Max-Coupler after reading about multiple events of the Lock-n-Roll binding and bending. Even though it seems good, the instances of "publicly recorded" failure are considerably lower!
Thanks very much for the video. After a second look, I was wondering if that middle pin can be released without "major" reassembly required. That first method shown in the video looks like it will do fine for me. I know my backing skills can work with that.
Thanks for the info on the Lock-n-Roll Bob. I have to admit I prefer the Max-Coupler after reading about multiple events of the Lock-n-Roll binding and bending. Even though it seems good, the instances of "publicly recorded" failure are considerably lower!
Last edited:
mvbeggs
Adventurer
Max Coupler Difficult?
I have a Chaser that is pretty difficult to move when loaded and off road. It typically takes me about 5 minutes to align the truck and hook up the max coupler. (one person operation with a backup camera) The hitch alignment is almost always done with the vehicle. (i.e. I never try to move the trailer)
I've had my Chaser since April 2011. Pulled it in the neighborhood of 12,000 miles. Practice makes perfect.
Even when I was new to the Max Coupler, it never took me more than 10 minutes to hook up.
Just my $0.02.
I have a Chaser that is pretty difficult to move when loaded and off road. It typically takes me about 5 minutes to align the truck and hook up the max coupler. (one person operation with a backup camera) The hitch alignment is almost always done with the vehicle. (i.e. I never try to move the trailer)
I've had my Chaser since April 2011. Pulled it in the neighborhood of 12,000 miles. Practice makes perfect.
Even when I was new to the Max Coupler, it never took me more than 10 minutes to hook up.
Just my $0.02.
ManleyORV
Rugged. Reliable. Ready.
Been using a Max-Coupler for a couple years and it's never been an issue. Not as quick as a ball coupler sometimes, but your talking a few minutes. I actually have never used either method in the video; I always unhook the trailer receiver. To hook it back up, just line up the TV and then rock the trailer forward and slide it in. And I have a foot on my jack, not a wheel.
But maybe some of you guys have much heavier trailers than me. When I take an Explore out fully loaded with a lid, RTT and all, it's about 1800lbs. And if it's unhooked, it means I'm camping; that usually only happens in a flatter area since the RTT is going to be deployed. I usually take it into consideration when I'm going to be unhooking the trailer.
In regards to slop and backing up... there is absolutely no slop and it backs up just like a ball coupler. No problems at all.
-Josh
But maybe some of you guys have much heavier trailers than me. When I take an Explore out fully loaded with a lid, RTT and all, it's about 1800lbs. And if it's unhooked, it means I'm camping; that usually only happens in a flatter area since the RTT is going to be deployed. I usually take it into consideration when I'm going to be unhooking the trailer.
In regards to slop and backing up... there is absolutely no slop and it backs up just like a ball coupler. No problems at all.
-Josh
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
I think it's fair to say that the most difficult factor when hitching any trailer up is the alignment between the vehicle and the trailer. Back up cameras work very well, they also sell alignment guides, and of course if you can see the trailer in the rear view mirror you can align it that way. You can even go as far as putting alignment strips on the wing mirror that correspond to edges on the trailer.
I'm hitching up to our flatbed about three times a week to get supplies and find the process of aligning the trailer takes way longer than the actual coupling. We are looking at two factors here, 1) vehicle/trailer alignment and 2) coupling
Coupling I have covered in the posted video. As Mark said most people guide the vehicle into the correct spot, and doing so requires practice. You can also move the trailer by hand, the ease of doing so depends on the wheel on the jack, the design of the jack, and the terrain and surface you are on. It's easier to move a well balanced trailer (one without excessive tongue weight), but remember that 10 -15% of the weight of the trailer should be on the tongue so that the trailer doesn't suffer from sway when it's being towed.