I need some input on purchasing a 99 Montero with high milage (250k)

[cosmiccharlie]

I know little to nothing about Monteros but there is one for sale locally and it has me interested. The body and interior are in great shape. Engine has 250k and the seller says it has been properly maintained and runs great. I haven't gone to see it in person yet. I wanted to get some info and insight from you guys beforehand. What should I look out for? What should I expect to pay?

Thanks

 

[evileric]

I know you said "properly maintained", but have they done the timing belt/water pump? If it has a locker, check to make sure it works, and transmission shifting. Other than the normal check items for any used car purchase, thats what i'd check for. I'd go $3000 on it.

 

[zukrider]

mine lived its whole life in denver, and it has minor rust in the windsheild top corners. i agree with evileric, get receipts for the t-belt service, or have it done right away. if it is an SR model, check the locker actuation, check that the shock switch works and does change the shock feel, check the sun roof operation, and check that the seat heaters are operational. also, mine is a 94 SR, and it does not have the locker, sunroof, shock switch, or leather heated seats. so ya know.

for any montero, check that the transfer is operating. look at the cv boots. cracked means replace, open means new birfield or complete shaft. other than that, do the norm, and good luck. post up if you get it.

joe

 

[datrupr]

A 99 won't have the SR designation, and it will have the locker if it came with the winter package. It will also have heated seats if thats the case. The timing belt needs to be replaced every 60K, other than that, I agree witht he above posts.

 

[cosmiccharlie]

Thanks for the input. I emailed the seller about the timing belt service and to set up a time to go look at the truck. I'll report what I find!

 

[off-roader]

[1] Check it's 4wd actuation: If it's not working, it usually just needs to be actuated several times and it will eventually work but if it hasn't been regularly used, the lubrication will sometimes gum up making it difficult for it to actuate and de-connect. Also the front wheel lights in the dash may flash on/off meaning the front wheel's did not disconnect. This is sometimes caused by worn solenoids. If it's just these solenoids then it usually does disconnect 4wd but the bad solenoid prevents the indicator from working properly.

[2] Check if it has a locking rear differential: To check if it has a locking differential, it should have front headlamp washers and a dif lock switch on the bottom left of the center console under the radio & hvac controls.

[3] Check if the locker works: Put it in 4wd low and throw the diff locker switch. The dif lock light should illuminate in the center of the dash. At a slow speed (<5mph?) on the street, make a u-turn. You should hear the rear tires slipping/skidding. The light should extinguish once you unlock the locker and you should no longer hear the skidding during a turn.

[4] Valve Guide Seals worn out: Check for smoke during a cold start or when you rev the engine after an extended idle (5 min). This is common in the v6 models. There's supposed to be a new valve guide seal that cures it but I'm not 100% it truly cures it.

[5] Worn Driver SeatCheck the driver seat for wear since it's the most often used seat & wears out faster than the rest.

As has been mentioned, the SR badging stopped after the mid 90's (96 or 97) so it shouldn't be on a 99.

HTH.:ylsmoke:

 

[adrenaline503]

Thanks for that off-roader, you answered questions I hadnt even thought of yet.

 

[cosmiccharlie]

Thanks for the replies. I still haven't had a chance to go look at it in person. This would be a daily driver, should I be concerned about the high milage? I've never purchased a vehicle with over 90k.

 

[off-roader]

No problem... there are a couple of other minor things to check with that high a mileage.

1) cooling system is critical. Inspect and if necessary have the radiator core rodded if it hasn't already been done in the recent past. Also do not buy an aftermarket radiator if it uses plastic tanks. Only get one that uses metal tanks.

2) check the transmission fluid and in fact, have the system flushed (not just a drain and refill). Be sure you're 150% sure the new fluid they use is designed for a Mitsubishi automatic transmission. For example, Mobil 1 indicates it should be safe yet someone I've know had a catastrophic failure when he used Mobil 1 tranny fluid on a working transmission. The fluid analysis he had done afterwards showed the internals were eaten away (iirc brass & copper levels in the fluid were very high) and the general consensus was the additives required for a Mitsu Transmission were not part of the Mobil 1 fluid.

3) Clean the intake manifold where the rubber hose from the air intake system connects with the engine manifold. Simply use a rag and wipe off the dirt. Don't put any fluids into those port and definitely do not let any of it fall into the engine.

4) Check the ISC/IAC using a multimeter.

5) I'm not sure if this is a problem with the later engines but in the 3.5L DOHC engines, they had a propensity for the butterfly valve bushings to wear after that many miles. Worse case scenario is they fall into the engine. Best case you will have vacillating high idle issues and you may hear the butterfly valves rattling in the intake manifold. I understand it takes ~3 hrs to r&r the lower intake manifold where those valves are and that part is ~$400. Is a great time to do your tune up though.