I want to find a 120 V timer powered off 12v or battery backup

[Bikersmurf]

Those timers in the Amazon link are electric water heater timers apparently, so 120VAC is fine (they are rated 240V, 16A on the relay). You want the timer to run on 12VDC and switch 120VAC, right? Pretty sure that's exactly what those CN101A timers do.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-LCD-Di...er-Switch-Time-Relay-12V-DC-16A-/272213696484

View attachment 370228

I was struggling to determine that from the description. They seem to have three options 12V, 120V, and 240V. I was going to ask the seller a question, but often find when dealing with China, communications can be difficult. I didn't read anywhere that the 12v version will switch 120v.

Looking at the pic you posted, it looks like they will. Some sellers also indicate in their description also. Thanks

 

[Bikersmurf]

That would switch the 120V side and the battery is charged when it's plugged in. If you leave it unplugged it's probably going to reset eventually, although 100 days is a pretty long time so it might work for your application.

100 days without being plugged into shore power is very unlikely... If it ever could happen, then I could switch it to one of the inverter plugs for a bit to charge... Likely would anyways to have the heat come on for a few minutes to take the chill off before wake up time.

 

[broncobowsher]

OK, time to cough up some more details.

Sounds like you will be plugged into shore power to keep the battery maintainer running.
And you want a timer of some sort to turn the block heater on at a specific time.
But you will be leaving the vehicle parked/stored for extended periods of time.

An extension cord with 2 outlets on it sounds really simple. One goes to the maintainer for 24/7 charging, the other goes to a programmable (battery backup) timer.

Really simple, unless I am missing something.

 

[dwh]

Really simple, unless I am missing something.

Looks like you missed the pic of the single point shore power connection...

 

[Bikersmurf]

Ok more info:

1) Ambo with house and starter batteries.
2) Daily Driven or at least several times a week.
3) 12v fridge.
4) 60A max 40A continuous 3 circuit 12v charger and power supply (Marine). 2 branches to house batteries 1 branch to starter batteries.
5) 120v forced air heater originally designed to mount under cabinets in toe kick area... Currently wired for 400w output.
6) Block heater... Rarely used since I now have a working glow plug relay.

Given I've got a breaker panel, house wiring, etc. I'd rather not have extra cords to worry about every day.

 

[VOODOO7.3]

Ok more info:

1) Ambo with house and starter batteries.
2) Daily Driven or at least several times a week.
3) 12v fridge.
4) 60A max 40A continuous 3 circuit 12v charger and power supply (Marine). 2 branches to house batteries 1 branch to starter batteries.
5) 120v forced air heater originally designed to mount under cabinets in toe kick area... Currently wired for 400w output.
6) Block heater... Rarely used since I now have a working glow plug relay.

Given I've got a breaker panel, house wiring, etc. I'd rather not have extra cords to worry about every day.

Do you have a heavy cord and RV type port already for plugging in at campgrounds and some kind of 110/220A panel?

 

[Bikersmurf]

Have:
110 breaker panel
Heavy 12-3 contractors cord
RV Type / Ambulance Port

So far everything will run off a 15A circuit...

 

[VOODOO7.3]

Have:
110 breaker panel
Heavy 12-3 contractors cord
RV Type / Ambulance Port

So far everything will run off a 15A circuit...

That's good, why not connect the block heater and whatever small heat source you want to an Insteon or Wink type outlet wired in your 110 system. Then you could add a remote(wireless) switch inside your house or add hub and do it from your phone. Timer functions are built in and some of those features might be nice to operate on road trips as well! Other thought was just go with remote starter now that you have a good, 100% duty cycle GPR. I'm assuming you have AIC since it is an ambo. Also, most 7.3 owners are not aware that the Intake Air Heater will only turn on under certain conditions. One of those is that the parking brake MUST be engaged. If you use it often in extreme cold, you can also add a coolant heater. Fuel heaters can also be added to the modular Stanadyne FM100 filter heads. Just a few different ideas.

 

[Bikersmurf]

Good ideas, I've been contemplating some kind of remote switch. My first choice would be to have it automated so I don't have to give it a second thought.

I don't think it has an intake air heater. Where would it be?

No need for a coolant heater or anything else extra. We only see freezing a few days a year... below freezing is even less common. A remote starter is unnecessary.

 

[VOODOO7.3]

Good ideas, I've been contemplating some kind of remote switch. My first choice would be to have it automated so I don't have to give it a second thought.

I don't think it has an intake air heater. Where would it be?

No need for a coolant heater or anything else extra. We only see freezing a few days a year... below freezing is even less common. A remote starter is unnecessary.

The air intake heater on 7.3's is threaded into the front of the aluminum Wye (clamped onto turbo compressor output). You replaced your GPR, so the easiest way to know if you have it, is to see if there's a second relay sitting right next to GPR. That's what that relay is for. The AIH blocks about 20-25% of flow from compressor, so it is also a popular delete mod if not used. Mine is gone since I don't start it with parking brake on, in park, in cold temps, and leave it idling. In the past, I liked using a retractable cord mounted on side of my garage. My future plan is to vehicle mount the retractable 10 ga. cord and switch the m/f plug ends. If plugging it in is easy enough, I'm more likely to do it!

 

[Bikersmurf]

Thanks... I've only got the one relay, and no heater in the Y.

I've been plugging in nightly... for full batteries on demand.