Induction cooktop???

[fourstringfletch]

I've learned a lot about indoor air quality recently as it relates to residential construction. CO and NO2 levels in a small house without a proper exhaust hood are enough to make one consider an induction range at home. In such a confined space as a camper or tent, eliminating open flames is especially relevant.

In my opinion, induction is a great option for campers if you can supply enough power. That said, I'll stick with propane and just burn it outside.

 

[verdesardog]

I have two that I use at home. The amp draw is way too much for me to even think about using it in my trailer. The cook surface does get hot from the hot pots sitting on top if it so it's not completely cool all the time. The ones I have are adjustable in 100 degree steps and do simmer very well. I cook eggs on med low using ceramic non stick, the eggs come out almost like poached eggs, I can make them as hard or soft as desired. This week I used one to make prickly pear tuna jam which as anyone that makes jam know needs high heat for considerable time, it worked perfectly! I have a two burner propane stove plumbed to use inside or outside the trailer which I mostly use outside. Inside there is an open window next to the stove and a stainless steel back splash.

The only way I'd use an induction cooker in my trailer was if I had shore power available. I have two large deep cycle batteries and a solar panel which would not be up to the necessary requirements of the induction cooker and I refuse to carry a generator!

 

[martell06]

We have them in one model of our rental camper vans and I would agree with the general consensus: they're great if your hooked to shore power, require dedicated magnetic cookware, pull a lot of juice but heat up quick!

If primarily off grid, I wouldn't bother. Our vans have solar and 2 house batteries. We tell customers to use it at 50% or less if not hooked up and we supply a propane camp stove as backup.

 

[rayra]

I've learned a lot about indoor air quality recently as it relates to residential construction. CO and NO2 levels in a small house without a proper exhaust hood are enough to make one consider an induction range at home. In such a confined space as a camper or tent, eliminating open flames is especially relevant.

In my opinion, induction is a great option for campers if you can supply enough power. That said, I'll stick with propane and just burn it outside.

Or, you know, you could open a window.


Yep, 'shore power', or already using a generator for other things. No damned way I'm considering an electricity hog like in induction burner without either.

 

[Accrete]

in our full time rig (a ~43ft toyhauler) we use a Nu-Wave portable induction cooktop. We typically use one of the three lower settings of 100, 200, or 275 degrees to do all our cooking. At those settings the amp draw is ~300, ~400, and ~500 amps. We've gone higher but things cook so fast we mostly stay at the lower settings.
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In the van (or the now sold Parkliner 15ft tt) we use a table-side butane stove. With proper ventilation (yea,yea I know...) we've been cooking indoors for five years and never a worry. 12000 BTU burner and things cook quickly.
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I wish that there were some products on the market similar to the "Mito single-cup heater"... looks like nice tech.
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Thom

 

[nixsee]

in our full time rig (a ~43ft toyhauler) we use a Nu-Wave portable induction cooktop. We typically use one of the three lower settings of 100, 200, or 275 degrees to do all our cooking. At those settings the amp draw is ~300, ~400, and ~500 amps. We've gone higher but things cook so fast we mostly stay at the lower settings.

How many Amp Hours/Watt Hours do you figure you use when you cook most meals? I'm just thinking about the feasibility of this given my batteries. I use LiFePO4 batteries so high current doesn't effect their capacity, just wondering about total capacity. Thanks!

 

[Haf-E]

in our full time rig (a ~43ft toyhauler) we use a Nu-Wave portable induction cooktop. We typically use one of the three lower settings of 100, 200, or 275 degrees to do all our cooking. At those settings the amp draw is ~300, ~400, and ~500 amps. We've gone higher but things cook so fast we mostly stay at the lower settings.

I think that this is suppose to be watts - as in ~300, ~400 or ~500 watts since if it was actually amps at 12vdc DC that would end up being ~3.6 kW to 6 kW worth of power!

I also have used a couple of different induction cooktops on my inverter - they all seem to work about the same with the only difference I've noticed to the smallest (pysically) and cheapest one to the biggest / most expensive version being the size of the area being heated on the bottom of the pan on the smaller unit is smaller. You really can only tell when you use a low quality thin material pot to boil water - with a heavier cast iron pan the heat is spread out pretty well.

As far as power consumption - its a bit tricky to tell since, when at low power levels, the units start to cycle on and off frequently - so the power is low and then high for a few seconds. I would say the numbers mentioned previously (~300 to 500 watts) is the average value I use and typically its only for 15 minutes or so depending on what I am making - so the total watt-hours used is about 125 to 250 watt-hours per meal. Not bad...

 

[Alastair D(Aus)]

When I was rethinking my truck part way through the build, I decided to use LFP batteries due to weight saving and performance. I installed a 320AH @12v bank. My testing showed just how they liked to charge or discharge at high currents and still maintain their voltage until near the end.

I also decided I did not want gas (propane) in the vehicle. I bought a single induction hot plate and tested it in various modes. I was prepared to scrap it if I didn't like the performance. It has many settings either by temperature or power (watts). My inverter is 1500W pure sine and is happy to run up to 3000w until the thermal limiter chops in. I tested it several times using the 1500w cooker setting to boil water. The current figures varied a bit depending on the saucepan I used, but were typically around 125A. The LFP batteries maintained ~13.5v being fully charged. So this equates to 1690w input power. Allow for 10% loss in the inverter and this is 1520w as rated.

I heated 1L of water from ambient, about 25C at the time, to boiling. This took from just over 1 min to 1.5 min depending on the saucepan, either big or small, hence different thermal losses. Take the worst case. 125A for 1.5 min is 3ÃH. For my batteries this is nothing and I decided to go all electric in the van. Note with LFPs they love to discharge and you can go to 20% SOC with no problem. They also charge at a great rate using all available and only drop off at the end unlike Lead acid in the various forms which taper off gradually. I have tested my various chargers - mains, solar and alternator - and they all give full charge until the LFPs are about 98%. I stop the bulk charge at 14.2v (3.55v per cell) and hold absorption until the current has dropped below 1A. The float is at 13.5v. I have 600w of solar panels on my roof and have seen 525w input into the batteries on a clear day. Even in the early morning I get significant charge despite cloud. I bought a generator early on when I planned to use AGM batteries but I doubt I will install it now - more weight saving.

I know LFPs are expensive but the price is dropping and they do last a long time if treated well. I accept that their history in RVs is not long but I am confident. Before the naysayers talk about explosions etc, the early problems were with a different form of Li battery and the LFPs do not have the same issues.

Sorry for the long winded response and the diversion into LFP batteries but I am impressed and pleased I changed. If I did it again I would go with a 24v system to reduce the current and better match into my Isuzu truck which is 24v.

 

[EAB]

I am trying to make the decision between a a Webasto Diesel Cooker and a True Induction Mini Duo. My truck will have 450ah of Li battery and 500 watts of solar. I understand the "theoretical" pros and cons of one versus the other but would like to hear how well they work in practice with that kind of battery available. Any other thoughts would be appreciated. I have never used either so I have very little real experience to draw from.

 

[S2DM]

I am trying to make the decision between a a Webasto Diesel Cooker and a True Induction Mini Duo. My truck will have 450ah of Li battery and 500 watts of solar. I understand the "theoretical" pros and cons of one versus the other but would like to hear how well they work in practice with that kind of battery available. Any other thoughts would be appreciated. I have never used either so I have very little real experience to draw from.

Will that be your main cooktop, or do you also plan an outdoor cooking area with a non induction fuel source? I'm assuming the 500 watts of solar are mono and not flex panels?

 

[EAB]

It will be the main cooktop in the camper but we will also carry a BBQ and a small stove ( MSR, etc ) I have been thinking that I will want a larger outside stove like a Coleman two burner, the new jetboil, etc. The solar panels are flex panels, Solbian SP125s.

 

[S2DM]

I would be interested to see real world data from those panels, but my guess is their output would probably be too low/on the low side if you are using an induction cooktop frequently. Caveats would be if you were planning on using a generator or running the trucks engine with some frequency.
The panels are a little undersized for that amount of Li battery bank, I would think it would take 10+hours to fully recharge from an 85% discharge. Given most calcs figure 4-6 hours of full output from your panels, that might not be possible in a given day. flexible panels are that much less efficient as well, so those numbers could be optimistic. I'm not an expert on the flexis, so my math could be off here.


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[EAB]

Thanks for the input, I had some concerns about that as well. Three Panels were originally suggested, I went for a fourth. I have room for two more on the roof I think. I am going to have the diesel cooker installed and use a portable induction cooktop and see how it goes. The cutout for the diesel is smaller than the induction so if it works great, I can always install the induction top permanently.

 

[jkam]

I saw this induction cook top on the net. Goes from 100 watts to 1800 watts depending on setting. Very pricey at $1800.00 but looks nice and well made.

http://www.brevilleusa.com/the-control-freak.html

 

[S2DM]

For the folks using these, has it been a boon to have it installed in the counter permanently, or would it be just as nice to have it in a drawer and pulled out to be used when needed?

Debating the merits of convenience and hardwired, vs future upgradeability and increased counter space when not in use.