IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
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Pretty sure the HF unit is the Exact. Same. Thing.
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Im not seeing anything on HF that resembles a MV50
Do you have a link?
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Pretty sure the HF unit is the Exact. Same. Thing.
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This is something to consider. If it plugs into the cig lighter as opposed to clipping onto the battery it because it is because it is designed draw less power and will run much slower.
I am sure I run my MV50 more than 12 times a year. The MV50 is surprisingly reliable for as inexpensive as it is. It isn't comparable to higher dollar compressor but if you aren't in a big hurry it does just fine.
Any compressor the plugs in has a very short duty cycle making it only capable of airing up one full size tire without resting, maybe = POS
The MV-50 is a great entry level compressor but it does has a 50% duty cycle 20min on/20min off and it will take all 20min to air up 4 - 35's from 15- 37psi. After you air up 4 tires the MV-50 its so hot you dont want to put it in the bag for the risk of fire. FWIW I have owned 3 MV-50 and still have 2.
Again I would recommend anyone who airs up more that 12 times a year to get something designed to run non stop for faster air up and long term reliability.
Today I use a PUMA and have for the last 9 years. It is designed to run non stop with 100's hours of run time logged.
My MV50 had alligator clips and didn't plug into the cigarette lighter.
I air up from about 10 psi to about 25 psi. I have 34 x 10.5 and had 35x12.5 in the past both onn15 inch rims. Mine is permanently mounted and hard wired. It does get hot. I have aired up multiple vehicles and mine hasn't shut off.
My first one lasted about 6 years and I shorted it out moving it. I have had the one I am using now for about 4 years.
Makes sense right?
Or am I just nuts?
Another thing, that Ive mentioned before in previous threads is that the factory wiring for the MV50 is a undersized.
Ive rewired a few using 10G wire throughout, and it has proven to make the unit run more efficiently.
In theory, the larger wire size reduces any voltage drop between the battery clamps and the motor while running, which should reduce the amperage draw.
All the while allowing the cylinder to run at a higher RPM, which increases output, and reduces the amount of time it takes to fill tires.
Makes sense right?
Or am I just nuts?
Another thing, that Ive mentioned before in previous threads is that the factory wiring for the MV50 is a undersized.
Ive rewired a few using 10G wire throughout, and it has proven to make the unit run more efficiently.
In theory, the larger wire size reduces any voltage drop between the battery clamps and the motor while running, which should reduce the amperage draw.
All the while allowing the cylinder to run at a higher RPM, which increases output, and reduces the amount of time it takes to fill tires.
Makes sense right?
Or am I just nuts?
I had one of those things years ago, they may put out 150 psi (never needed that much pressure so cannot confirm), but only a thimble-full at a time, takes half an hour to fill one tire. The MV-50 puts out way more volume; I have a couple of them from back in the day when Checker blew them out for $25 apiece. I only felt a need to upgrade after I went to 35s, but I could have lived with the MV-50 even then.I started with a 12v "150 PSI" compressor from Harbor Freight. It had clips for the battery and a fairly long coiled hose. Early on it cooked the thermal safety switch, even when it cooled off, it wouldn't reset. I bypassed that and it lasted for several years of once a month weekend trips. Eventually it melted the fuse socket, I managed to push the fuse in well enough to make contact and it worked well enough to inflate the tires to get home.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12volt-150-psi-compact-air-compressor-69285.html
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Standard practice for compressors is to run longer hose rather than longer wires. There is no voltage drop in an air hose. My OBA is hard mounted near the battery, and I carry a 25-foot polyurethane 1/4" hose in back. It will reach all four tires with ease, and will reach other trucks if required.Voltage drop per foot, is easily calculated. Larger wire means less drop per foot, which equates to more voltage at load, and less amp draw, meaning a cooler running motor, and cooler wiring.
There is no mention of hose, for a reason.
You are correct with regards to hoses and hose lengths, but this is about the original wiring.
The wiring upgrade is just that, a wiring upgrade. No lengthening needed or required.