Installing truck box latch

[Pancake81]

Hey gang,

I am very happy to say I am finally working on, and almost done, my rear drawer for my 2002 xterra. Turned out better than I imagined, as I am not a carpenter.

I will do a full write up in the sticky when I am done, but here is my stumper.

The drawer is essentially done. But I need to install a handle. I bought a locking truck box latch style, that many of you use, as I want it locking and it looks good sitting flush with the the face of the drawer. However, I am not sure the best way to install it.

My drawer does not come out, due to the 500lbs slides I used. No quick disconnect. So I will have to do it while installed in the vehicle. No biggie.. (?).

But how did you guys install yours? Did you drilll a few holes and router it out, or jig saw? What does it latch onto inside the drawer? Any photos of you dos this would be appreciated.

Happy trails,
PC81

 

[rayra]

If you are referring to a paddle latch design, see my active build thread. The end / face of my plywood drawer boxes are a double layer and I had to make (different) relief cuts in both layers to embed the latch. Then I did some inletting in the roof of the drawer box/module to mount a large gate striker plate for the latch to engage.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...e-Drawers-Platform-for-my-GMT800-Suburban-WIP

 

[Pancake81]

Thanks for the reply rayra, really appreciate it. That's a beautiful build you did, I pretty much read it start to finish.

I am basically using the same latch, but wish I read your right up before I glued pinned and screwed everything together...

I see what you mean by the two different lyres and requiring two different cut out shapes. I made mine in a similar fashion. Any advice on how to do those cut outs with out disassembling the drawer face.

Here are some photos of my build.

 

[rayra]

Lots of ways to do it, all or kind of tedious and finicky. You can make some templates of the cutouts you need and transfer them to the drawer face. The bolt of the latch in my case goes all the way thru the second layer, if yours does too then you can just cut from the front with a jigsaw or even by hand with a coping saw. The broader shallower area of the recess of the latch body, cut into the facing of the drawer, that can be roughed with a set of mortising drill bits, and inletted with wood chisels. Or the whole thing could be done directly with a router, if you have the practice / steady hand or take time to build a jig to keep the cut totally controlled. The goo part is the frotn flange of the latch is wide and can cover a lot of sins, if things wander outside your lines.
In short you make the cut-thru for the inner layer thru BOTH layers, first. Then you make the shallower cut of the front for the latch body.

 

[rayra]

It would, it's the right tool for the job. Very hard to do it freehand, with the drawer face vertical. I would not want to try it. Except maybe as a way to hog out most of the material and finish the rest with wood chisels. That's leaving things assembled / as is.

 

[Pancake81]

So here's what I'm thinking, and let me know if you think it will work.

I trace the lock out where it needs to be cut using a pencil. I take a drill, drill a few holes to give me room to get a jigsaw blade in. Then I run the jigsaw ruffly and not all the way to the edge that I need to cut too.

Then I C clamp on a straight edge to the face and the back of the drawer, and run the router for a nice clean crisp edge for the final cut.

Does that sound doable?

 

[verdesardog]

Make a template for the router to clean up what you cut with a jig saw.....

 

[plh]

Make a template for the router to clean up what you cut with a jig saw.....

good plan