Insulating an aluminum camper shell / wedge tent camper.

[dbhost]

So I REALLY like the Lone Peak camper. BUT... It is basically a tent on an aluminum body. Horrible for thermal control. And to top it off, it's black. And I am in Texas!

So I figure on the insides of the solid surfaces, I could lay down a layer of reflectix, then some rat fur carpeting that should solve most of the massive issues there. But that big, bigger than most, canopy / tent. I doubt they offer a polar pack for it...

How are folks insulating these or are they just overwhelming them with heat / AC to get comfortable?

In use occupancy of mine will be one fat guy and one old dog... More worried about roasting than freezing....

 

[TexasSixSeven]

I camp a lot in TX all over throughout the summer in a roof top tent mounted roof height on my F250. Heat is hardly an issue at night, and I absolutely can not sleep if I’m hot. At that height you usually have a much better breeze than down low. The few nights it is too warm to sleep easily I carry a Milwaukee 18V fan, and in low setting I stay more than comfortable.

 

[TexasSixSeven]

I ordered a Lone Peak the morning they opened orders, and I intend to sleep the same way with it. If that’s not sufficient I’ll look further into it, but I doubt it’s much of an issue.

 

[Do-it-all Dodge Dan]

I've been doing this many years coast to coast in a 4wheel camper which is some what insulated in comparison to my current wedge style pop up from alu-cab

I've tried all kinds of things for heat. Buddy heaters ?cat heater? electric heat pad? pass thru from cab heat? generator with electric heat works but consumes a ton of fuel then shuts off early in the morning leaving you to freeze your but off while getting dressed. Which leads me to the solution. A espar diesel heater.

These things are awesome they keep your camper dry and warm on as little as 1 tenth a gallon of fuel per hour and use very little battery power.

As far as a/c it's simple. I got a $99 window unit from wally world mounted a 2000watt inverter genny on the front bumper and it will run the a/c for 10hrs in the Texas heat on 1 gallon of gas and will freeze you out because it's such a small space.

Note the window unit is concealed in the front of the camper above the big fuel tank tool box combo

 

[Do-it-all Dodge Dan]

My new camper is better insulated in the top than the 4wheel camper because it has 2 layers of canvas vs a single layer on the 4wheelcamper but the lower has no insulation at all.

The ac isn't set up in here yet but I think I'm going to build it into one of the gulwing door on the side. Open that door when I want ac and close it up concealed for when it's not.

In the pictures you can see the mounting position for the generator on the left and I'm waiting on the big brown truck to drop off 2 new 11lb propane tanks for the right side. They will be feed with a auto switch on the dual tanks so when one tank runs dry the genny never shuts down.

 

[rruff]

So I figure on the insides of the solid surfaces, I could lay down a layer of reflectix, then some rat fur carpeting that should solve most of the massive issues there.

No on the reflectix, it isn't real insulation unless it can hang loose (uncovered)... it's mostly a radiant barrier. I'd look at XPS foam panels from the hardware store (1/2" would be good). Cover the inside surface with something... PMF (Titebond saturated canvas + paint) would be be one durable option.

Paint the outside white. Makes a huge difference in the sun, especially if it's calm.

Provide air circulation.

Here is a visual on your camper in case anyone else isn't sure how it looks.

 

[Do-it-all Dodge Dan]

X2 on the foam boards I used 1/2 in the roof of my 4wheelcamper to sleep in temperatures as low as negative 20 it makes a world of difference.

 

[dstefan]

Checkout this stuff: https://www.usenergyproducts.com/collections/reflective-sealer-foam-core-1
Its like Reflectix, but 5mm closed cell foam core with actual insulation capability, which Reflectix really doesn’t have. Not sure I fully believe their R8 rating, though.

I just finished insulating our camper shell with it. I’ve also used Rflectix for other things in the past. This stuff is as easy to work with and as light, but seems more durable and certainly is more insulating. I put it up with VHB, and it’s held up really well so far. The nice thing is you can VHB it to the frame members and leave an air gap to the skin and avoid the thermal bridging problems. I covered it up with white chloroplast, except for the ceiling and we really like it. You can find this on Amazon, which is where I first ran into it, but it’s mostly 3 mm foam core, which to my mind is not thick enough. I just ordered it straight from US Energy Products, and they have a lot more options in sizes and lengths.

Here’s a light weight, good insulation I used and am very happy with after 2 years. Way better than Reflectix, but similar form factor.

 

[Ozarker]

I'd say Do It All has the right idea.

I use to use Harbor Freight moving blankets, those blue quilts, overlap the edges about 6 inches and you can glue them together with 3M spray glue. Draped those over a tent making a second layer for the tent. A cheap poly tarp over that gives you a decent amount of insulation for heat or a/c.

Don't get those HF blankets close to any heat source, they will melt and then burst into flames! But, they are cheap!

 

[ITTOG]

X2 on the foam boards I used 1/2 in the roof of my 4wheelcamper to sleep in temperatures as low as negative 20 it makes a world of difference. View attachment 758576

Do you have the foam over all surfaces? If yes, have you ever removed it to see if the metal behind it is getting wet? I plan to use this foam for my self build camper and am curious about water building up on the steel frame behind the foam.

 

[Do-it-all Dodge Dan]

Yes.. It was I literally would pull sheets of ice off the canvas and toss it out in the morning.

 

[Ozarker]

Do you have the foam over all surfaces? If yes, have you ever removed it to see if the metal behind it is getting wet? I plan to use this foam for my self build camper and am curious about water building up on the steel frame behind the foam.

You'll be better off leaving an air gap between the metal and the insulation and a path for water to drip off outside.

Which is why my trailer has a metal skin, then steel frame, then plywood, then insulation, the wall covering, much like steel siding on a home, except the frame is wood then sheetrock.

It's impossible to cancel out condensation, when the temp and the dew point are the same, you'll have water.

 

[Do-it-all Dodge Dan]

I just Chase it out of my camper now days with diesel powered heat and a way for the evil moisture to escape out a vent or a window.

 

[rruff]

It's impossible to cancel out condensation, when the temp and the dew point are the same, you'll have water.

Can you completely seal it... air and moisture tight?

 

[rruff]

Here’s a light weight, good insulation I used and am very happy with after 2 years. Way better than Reflectix, but similar form factor.

Ya, R8 from 5mm foam... no way. Looks like good stuff though... I might give it a try for window coverings.