interference between spring poles and awnings...

SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
I'm sure this must be a common issue - how do people typically deal with the fact that in many scenarios (like mine) the 270º awning prevents me from being able to deploy spring poles on two of the three windows. Or if I want spring poles (such as in a winter camping scenario) I just have to not deploy the awning. Would be nice to be able to have both. I'm thinking of poking holes through the awning (and then reinforcing somehow) but thinking that finding the right position for the hole might be quite tricky...

IMG_5106.jpg
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
Maybe mock it up with heavy construction paper first and poke the random holes in that until you get to something that you can measure to the right final location?
 

SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
I may have bro do that. One of the questions is how to best reinforce the holes in the awning. I seem to recall seeing iron-on fabric reinforcements somewhere and wondering if they will stick...


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NatersXJ6

Explorer
If it was me, once I determined the hole placement, I would sew a heavy leather or similar vinyl/ripstop material like they use on snowshoe decking (the name escapes me now) with a heavy brass or other metallic grommet in it. You could probably come up with some sort of cover flap too to limit water intrusion, but I’ve never met an awning that was 100% dry, so 2 drips won’t really bother me.
 

SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
I thought about using brass or stainless grommets (I have a kit with punch/press for my boat) but I worry about the noise of the grommet sliding around on the spring pole in a slight breeze. Noise like that drives me nuts...
 

Scoutman

Explorer
Most folks (myself included) just bend the spring rods to clear the awning. I'm not sure if I have a picture to show them or not but I'll check. Basically those 3 rods would each get 2 bends. I put mine in a bench vise and then bent them trying to keep the hook in the same plane as the bends.

I would not cut holes in your awning.
 

SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
Most folks (myself included) just bend the spring rods to clear the awning. I'm not sure if I have a picture to show them or not but I'll check. Basically those 3 rods would each get 2 bends. I put mine in a bench vise and then bent them trying to keep the hook in the same plane as the bends.

I would not cut holes in your awning.

I’ll have to look into the viability of that approach. I think that there is so much direct overhang that I’d need a 90° bend (vertical) immediately after the lower insertion, then about 8-10” of rise, then a return 90° (horizontal). I doubt there’d be enough length at that point to actually hold open the windows.


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Scoutman

Explorer
I’ll have to look into the viability of that approach. I think that there is so much direct overhang that I’d need a 90° bend (vertical) immediately after the lower insertion, then about 8-10” of rise, then a return 90° (horizontal). I doubt there’d be enough length at that point to actually hold open the windows.


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I think mine is something similar but there's about a 5" rise to tuck it behind my awning.

Do you have a picture of the awning set to it's working height? How is the Rhino Rack awning structured? Would it be possible to change the rod support hole from the tent frame to something on the awning structure?
 

SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
I think mine is something similar but there's about a 5" rise to tuck it behind my awning.

Do you have a picture of the awning set to it's working height? How is the Rhino Rack awning structured? Would it be possible to change the rod support hole from the tent frame to something on the awning structure?

That’s a great idea. When I get back to my trailer this week I will set it up and take some pix for reference and do some thinking along those lines.


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