Interior wall/ceiling covering

[NOPEC]

destefan, Thank you for the great feedback on Coroplast.
I'm starting to lean in that direction a bit now that I've heard that it is standing the test of off-highway travel.

How are folks adhering it to the walls and ceiling?
If I go this route, I'm thinking about screwing it with lath, self-tapping screws (they are affordable and the large head will hopefully keep it from pulling through the Coroplast).

Cheers

Inyo man
Your timing for using Coroplast is excellent due to the large number of political lawn signs made of it that will be availabe in the coming months. If you are quick and even braver, you can have an endless variety of colors, themes, sizes, etc. all for free!

Now, if you survive or chose to go with a different source, I have used and would recommend what are known as "countersunk or finishing" washers which would work very well on attaching Coroplast. Good luck!

 

[tirod3]

3mm sems to be the recommended thickness for interior ABS, its common in public restrooms. I have never seen it damaged in that level of abuse but admit its often put on over concrete block.

If/when I get to the point of building the shell of a camper a fully framed insulated and covered door is the first project. It can be abused in small scale to see how it holds up. If i can stand on it like a diving board its tough enough. We really dont have any comparable test for all the different materials used or even working standards, aside from tilting a trailer on its side going down an unpaved road. So far nobody passes the Interstate 70mph rollover.

 

[Inyo_man]

Now, if you survive or chose to go with a different source, I have used and would recommend what are known as "countersunk or finishing" washers which would work very well on attaching Coroplast. Good luck!

I considered using the finish washers, but thought the lath screws would be a more inexpensive solution and work just as well.

ABS is still on the list of possible material...thanks for the thickness spec., tirod3.

Cheers

 

[86scotty]

destefan, Thank you for the great feedback on Coroplast.
I'm starting to lean in that direction a bit now that I've heard that it is standing the test of off-highway travel.

How are folks adhering it to the walls and ceiling?
If I go this route, I'm thinking about screwing it with lath, self-tapping screws (they are affordable and the large head will hopefully keep it from pulling through the Coroplast).

Cheers

Industrial rigid velcro, the stuff that is hard on both sides. It has a name that escapes me. Works great for stuff like this is rarely or never removed. People even do solar installs with it.

Personally I would use stainless screws if you can do it without drilling lots of holes in sheetmetal.

 

[plh]

Coroplast has a small thermal break property as well. Back in the 1980's I worked for an air-to-air heat exchanger manufacture and we used this stuff for the exchanger core. I'm going to evaluate this for my walls. Thanks for the reminder. It looks easily available at Home Depot, and probably a lot of other places.

 

[Inyo_man]

Industrial rigid velcro, the stuff that is hard on both sides. It has a name that escapes me. Works great for stuff like this is rarely or never removed. People even do solar installs with it.

Personally I would use stainless screws if you can do it without drilling lots of holes in sheetmetal.

I do have "heavy duty", sticky backed velcro that claims to hold "up to ten pounds".
I was considering using something like that, in the event I need to add more wiring or have access to wiring.
However, the ridged velcro is something that I haven't looked into yet. Thanks for the suggestion.

I thought about using stainless screws instead of lath screws, but the price point of the stainless is persuading me to use the zinc coated screws and just paint them.

Thanks again for all the suggestions and ideas!

Cheers

 

[dstefan]

destefan, Thank you for the great feedback on Coroplast.
I'm starting to lean in that direction a bit now that I've heard that it is standing the test of off-highway travel.

How are folks adhering it to the walls and ceiling?
If I go this route, I'm thinking about screwing it with lath, self-tapping screws (they are affordable and the large head will hopefully keep it from pulling through the Coroplast).

Cheers

I have used both VHB and lath screws, mostly VHB, but some screws in corners. The lath screws work well, just be gentle as two agressive screwing will crush the Coroplast and you’ll see dents or lines. I typically used a drill driver with the torque set very low.

VHB works very well, but it’s hard to get the panels off, though where I used an Amazon knock off versus the good 3M stuff it was much easier to take off without damage. No problems with it staying up! Suggest NOT lightly scuffing the Coroplast, just wipe with isopropyl. Makes it it much easier to take down. The Velcro idea is likely best for removability, but I was too lazy to do that, stupidly!

 

[Inyo_man]

Thanks again for all the suggestions and replies!

Wiring and insulation is completed.
Settled on using Coroplast for wall/ceiling covering and affixing to the structure with 3/4" lathe screws.
I only got a bit done on the ceiling so far (working on it between jobs and chores). I'll cover the ceiling panels with marine carpet using 3M spray adhesive. The Coroplast is very light weight, inexpensive, and the areas not covered by low-nap carpet will be easy to clean.

Cheers

 

[tirod3]

I'm giving it a lot more attention now due to weight, cost, and availability. It's performance specs aren't easily dismissed.

 

[plh]

I bought coroplast & a roll of rigid velcro (Dual Lock) this week. Not installed yet.

 

[Ozarker]

Thinking ahead, coroplast on the walls or even ceilings might be supported by other elements used in the project. Window frames, valances, light fixtures, curtains/shades, speaker facings, hooks/hangers, and various trim pieces all go on top of a wall covering or under the ceiling and will hold the covering against the vehicle.

I'd suggest you use some type of trim strip screwed to some backing instead of using washers against the coroplast, the head of a screw or bolt would work through the coroplast, so would a smallish washer.

For trim, get a pvc rain gutter, cut out strips of pvc, attach with flat head wood screws to backing, then you can cover the pvc strip with a trim material. Round the ends of a 1" strip for a more custom look, add salt as needed....lol.

 

[NOPEC]

I would be interested to know if anyone has concerns with the potential delamination of the coroplast in the event that you ever had to "unstick" the hard Velcro, like misplacement during initial laying down ....

 

[Ozarker]

I would be interested to know if anyone has concerns with the potential delamination of the coroplast in the event that you ever had to "unstick" the hard Velcro, like misplacement during initial laying down ....

I wouldn't have any concern with delamination, I'd use a razor blade to remove glues off the surface. Like any material, if you screw up, you screw up, but you'd have to screw up big time to destroy the coroplast. If you drill a hole in it the hole cannot be removed!

 

[Mules]

Gladiator Pop-Up Pass Through Camper Build

Well, as I think about all the cool expensive gadgets coming up, I still need to finish the shell. I’m wrapping the interior panels with automotive carpet.

forum.expeditionportal.com

I used automotive stretch carpet and luan plywood. Alternatively, you can glue the stretch carpet directly onto the camper shell. It's able to be stretched around corners.

Also, the carpet is one giant velcro surface that you can attach anything to. I also wrapped the carpet around foam for floor pads which are great to walk on and can be pulled out to clean the floor.