Intro! Tell me about the GMT400 K3500- looking at a 4-dr. Chevy 6.5L turbodiesel 4x4

[dragogt]

Congrats on the good find!

The best resource I found for that 6.5 motor was www.thetruckstop.us

Fixed for accuracy..


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[Sentinelist]

I ran the popular 255/85R16s on my 2001 2500HD on those wheels but the sheer weight of the truck started to wear the tires quick and the tall skinny’s weren’t the best onroad especially in corners. I switched the 2500HD over to 285/70R17s and am much happier with that tire on that big heavy truck especially onroad. Both tires had their good and bad points. I have moved those tires onto different wheels for my 1991 2500LD, and since that truck is about 30% lighter I haven’t noticed any of the same issues with the tires on that truck yet. The only bad thing about going to 285s on your stock PY0 wheels is how narrow they are, you may experience uneven wearing. Many people have run 285s on those wheels though, but some people to move to H2 wheels or other stock GM 17s to get more rim width. Just realize the potential for wearing issues is there.

That's one of the factors I was wondering about- even with Kevlar reinforced sidewalls, I may be pushing it. I'm actually looking at a used set of H1 wheels (I'm all about period-correct when possible). I'm waiting to hear back from the seller of those to confirm the specs (16.5"?). I think some of our Suburban guys are running these as well, and should support much wider tires.

The standard size tires (BFGs at least 6 years old) I have will probably hold up fine for the next month or two- I'm planning to do them and the wheels perhaps around Christmas when I'll have a little more time on my hands.

 

[Sentinelist]

Fixed for accuracy..


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Ok thanks

 

[dragogt]

No problem TDP started out good but now all the real tech is on TTS; And yes H1 rims are beadlock (no bead to seat the tire) 16.5" with (iirc) 4.5" back spacing meaning that it's possible that they will hit the tierods, etc if you're not careful


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[Sentinelist]

Good to know- is there any consideration with using regular AT tires (probably Pro-Grade Goodyears) with beadlock wheels like those? Wasn't aware of that design. How wide are they? The seller I'm talking to didn't say, but is including the run-flats, which might be great? Hadn't thought about that. So as long as I don't fully crank over the steering wheel (would have to be mindful), then they should work? Or is it safe to use spacers to resolve the backspacing (offset, if even available)?

If I went with the H1 wheels, what would be the ideal tire size if I wasn't going to lift the truck? I'm rethinking my true ground clearance needs but definitely want larger tires.

I think I'm going to pick up the rear bumper I found on Saturday morning. I have the brush guard going on tomorrow along with an oil change (Delvac 15W-40) and diff flushes. I better start my build thread soon.

EDIT: looks like the H1 wheels are 12.5" wide according to the tirerack.com guide... that should do!

 

[greengreer]

Are you having the wheels recentered? Also not alot of tire choices in 16.5". Most that run them do it for cheap surplus humvee tires

 

[Sentinelist]

Would they need to be recentered? Not sure what that entails- would they not directly bolt on? Indeed I'm not finding many tires that work with these. I guess ideally 33x12.5x16.5?

I also found another guy more local selling surplus H1 wheels cheap (too cool), but with 36" tires I won't be able to fit. I may go visit him this weekend if I can technically make it work (just the wheels- I won't attempt to fit 36s).

I'm also reading this thread on the wheels: http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...s-on-a-Ford-Superduty?highlight=Hummer+wheels

 

[madmax718]

I had a 92, 93 is probably one of the few less problamatic years. I think 94 is better, but I forget which year started the PSD, of which you don't have. If your not towing much, it doesnt matter, and this motor should net you in the 18-low 20's, if your easy on the skinny pedal. Its a fully mechanical diesel, so you can turn it up, if you like. Later turbo's are better, (like a good GM8), supposed to have a more computer designed vane. Which reminds me to list my stuff for sale. The ticket package for 93's are:

Turn up the pump a tad, upgrade turbo, upgrade cooling, (97+ dual thermostat) and upgrade crossover pipe.

The seats are... kinda like grandma's old couch. Headliners sag. Paint peals. Dashes don't crack as often as the prior generation.

AC for me was fine, with great flow. Could hang meat in there in 100 degree days no problem.

Hydroboost brakes are a godsend compared to the standard brakes. Fuel filter- might be a model 80, or maybe not. Get rid of the model 80, they are harder to find, and harder to replace.

The duramax is awesome, but for what your using it for, not much different, but the allison transmission is killer.

 

[dragogt]

For H1's 37" take offs would be my ideal choice, take a look around http://www.trailworthyfab.com/Custom-Hummer-Wheels and see what you think...

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[Sentinelist]

I had a 92, 93 is probably one of the few less problamatic years. I think 94 is better, but I forget which year started the PSD, of which you don't have. If your not towing much, it doesnt matter, and this motor should net you in the 18-low 20's, if your easy on the skinny pedal. Its a fully mechanical diesel, so you can turn it up, if you like. Later turbo's are better, (like a good GM8), supposed to have a more computer designed vane. Which reminds me to list my stuff for sale. The ticket package for 93's are:

Turn up the pump a tad, upgrade turbo, upgrade cooling, (97+ dual thermostat) and upgrade crossover pipe.

The seats are... kinda like grandma's old couch. Headliners sag. Paint peals. Dashes don't crack as often as the prior generation.

AC for me was fine, with great flow. Could hang meat in there in 100 degree days no problem.

Hydroboost brakes are a godsend compared to the standard brakes. Fuel filter- might be a model 80, or maybe not. Get rid of the model 80, they are harder to find, and harder to replace.

The duramax is awesome, but for what your using it for, not much different, but the allison transmission is killer.

Thanks for the info! 1993 was the last year for the mechanically-injected mill. They went electronic starting in 94+. It's still on the stock turbo which still sings great, and also has the upgraded cooling package from SSDiesel Supply (recommended outfit by the seller) with the thermostat. The temp gauge never goes above 25%, even on hot days I'm told. That's saying something for Dallas. It really runs and shifts like it's got 100k on it- really lucky. Where is the fuel filter located so I can check that out?

My long term plan (maybe sooner than later, next year?) is to swap out the entire interior with a full leather ensemble from a 94-99 truck if the brackets mount up the same (?). The doors are wearing out, so more recent ones may go on as well instead of trying to swap on door cards and hardware. I may look for a newer salvage truck at that point to pick off of (I also prefer the 94-99 grille and lights more). So, the headliner, seats and dash (already swapped recently, so no cracks) won't be a problem then. It'll get the body repainted as well once I get the utility bed and camper to match if I'm still happy with the drivetrain performance.

Can't wait to drive it tomorrow!

 

[Sentinelist]

For H1's 37" take offs would be my ideal choice, take a look around http://www.trailworthyfab.com/Custom-Hummer-Wheels and see what you think...

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It's great to see such support for interesting wheels like this- bookmarked the site. But if I can find tires to match off Tire Rack, this local guy has the wheels in black for $50 apiece... 12-bolts. Although I don't know the offset and may indeed have to have them recentered, so it may not be worth it. After reading that link I posted above, I'll probably do without the run-flat inserts unless they are the newer PVC design if I go this route. Even then, the balancing, 60psi max, and this recentering business give me pause. I'm tempted to make a decision ASAP, but will think this over. I'll check out other GM HD wheels as well, 17" likely. Goodyear is running a healthy $80 rebate on a set of 4 until the end of the year, so I guess I have until then if I pick that brand. Looking at BFGs as well.

 

[Sentinelist]

I'm not finding many pre-2011 GM wheels that would work, besides the ones I already have! Sure wish they were 17s. I'm asking myself, 'how bad could it be?' if I just put the widest 33s I could find safely on them. I still need to ballpark my likely future utility box and camper combo for weight estimates- I'm pretty sure any E-load tire will be up to the task, and I'll also be buying for treadwear longevity. There is a decent looking 17x8" American Racing option that could work- thinking these painted satin black.

And here are the H1 wheels I'm considering. I'm still really, really curious what it would technically take, i.e. if recentering would be required, and if they're worth the hassle. Can I not just bolt these on with spacers? What's my factory bolt pattern measurement? I go for unique stuff on my vehicles, so this would help me stand out from an otherwise pedestrian looking truck. It's got the stuff I'm looking for with the build ideas. This guy is 3 hrs. away, kind of borderline worth my time. But I'd love to just slap a set on. And need 33" tire recommendations if possible. Thanks, guys.

http://nacogdoches.craigslist.org/pts/4132365847.html

Are these BFGs sized to fit?

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...ATAKORWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

 

[CodyY]

Get yourself a catalog from LMC truck.

Im not sure on the H1 wheels, but IMHO the best way to fit big wheels and tires is with fiberglass fenders and bedsides.

http://www.hannemannfiberglass.com/custom.asp?id=457567&page=15

 

[Sentinelist]

Thanks, but I won't be going that far. That's what she said. Instead, I'm looking at doing a leveling kit over a lift kit. That and 33s will get me the clearance I'm looking for. Thoughts?

I also just emailed the H1 wheels guy to see if he has 5 of the 12-bolts available. TBD.

EDIT: reply... "Yes I have 5 12 bolt wheels that I will sell by themselves. They are 8x6-1/2" lug pattern. And the back spacing is about 6.5" "

Is this the same pattern as '8-165'? Would the backspacing work better than 3.5"?

 

[surlydiesel]

I vote you keep the wheels you have, toss on some 285/75R16's in a chunky mud terrain tire and be done with it. Why spend money you don't need to? Your rims are fine for that size tire. Very common sized tire on those rims, just watch your tire pressure and rotate often. I rotate every 5000 miles, or 6000 if I was doing a 3000 mile oil change interval. I would look into a Bypass Oil Filter setup for getting the soot out of the oil. I had one in my 96 F-350 and extended my oil changes by quite a bit. http://www.fs2500.com/

Looks like a clean truck. Kinda Jealous. Nothing like the sound of a mechanically injected diesel.

-jorge