Previous experience with that stuff (track junkies spraying it inside rocker enclosures and B-pillars to stiffen up the chassis) has shown that it can continue to expand for a few days, and if overfilled to the brim, pop welds. I'd want to test carefully on a sacrificial structure first before doing anything irreversible to the Alu-Cab....
Definitely a concern. The "Window and Door" variation is supposed to apply less psi to the surrounding structure than the regular stuff to prevent the distortion of whatever you are spraying it in. I don't particularly care for the stuff but its all I can come up with to insulate the interior of the box tubing used on the rear door.
Air is an incredible insulator. Packing the space where air used to be with a solid material of sorts can actually make heat transfer much worse, having the opposite of your desired effect.
Makes sense. I'm no expert but I could see where filling an air gap with something to create a thermal bridge would yield the opposite effect, however I am under the impression foams and materials that provide loft are specifically designed to have minimal thermal transfer between surfaces. I agree that the small area of the door structure tubing is most likely not going to have any significant impact. I am on the fence about doing anything just figured while I have the holes there, if I am going to fill it, now is the time before I fill the holes with rivets. My goal is just to make the camper more efficient and comfortable than it already is knowing full well it will never be igloo efficient. Keep heat out in the summer, and in during the winter as best as I can for what it is.
Does anyone know how the interior roof is constructed? Is there a wood or aluminum sheet where the quilted material is? I’ve seen the video where someone hard mounted a fan but wanted some more specifics. Wanting to mount a ram ball to it for my kids to enjoy movies while the adults are around the campfire.
bump. Revisiting this little project and thinking of mounting a RAM track to use for a fan/iPad mount.
Does anyone know how the roof is constructed? It feels a lot more padded than the video I saw on YouTube of a sirroco fan install.
great. This is the Kind of info I was looking for. Wonder if the rivets for the light are same width as the bag rivets. Thanks for the idea!I drilled out the rivets and installed plus nuts. Messing around with some left over 8020 I made an iPad mount using a ram mount. Works perfect. A friend made me a better mount setup that I’ll be installing down the road.
BTW drilling out the rivets is pretty nerve-racking but there is a few inches above the headliner so you won’t drill all the way through.
great. This is the Kind of info I was looking for. Wonder if the rivets for the light are same width as the bag rivets. Thanks for the idea!
Happy to help. I don’t think they are. If you look at the new table setup Alucab offers for the 3R rtt they have a bracket now on each side of the bag and the tent comes with the plus nuts installed.
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What exactly is a "plus nut"?
The 80/20 (I use the 1 inch stuff, plenty strong) has little corner brackets that are usually used longitudinally (lengthwise) to connect the lengths of 80/20 together, but they can also be rotated perpendicular and used to mount panels to.
I like the idea of a panel nestled into the small channel of the 80/20, but I think it would be too hard to pull off.
I am using 1/2" plywood for the horizontal pieces, so that we can sit on it. It will have gas struts so it can be pivoted out of the way to access the storage underneath. All vertical panels will be 26 gauge steel. Going with steel over aluminum so that we can use magnets to secure things (small pouches, cooking spice containers, etc.) to the vertical space, as we are big proponents of using vertical space as much as possible. The tiny weight difference is not a concern.
I agree with you, if the foam is applied in a specific manner.
In the case of something like a LEED certified building (really energy efficient, from building material procurement to daily energy use) these types of insulators have to be applied in a specific quantity in a specific way. For example, it has to be applied in place either by having the entire run exposed, so a bead/line of the foam can be placed along the entire length, or if that isn't possible it's applied by a device that can dispense and then retract out of the area that is being filled.
In other words, it's not an acceptable practice (in the structural engineering realm where I reside at least) to simply put the tip into a hole and then blast away until you think it's full. In that case there is likely a portion with no insulation at all (away from the opening) to an area that has the appropriate amount of insulation (a smaller portion somewhere near the center) and an area that is overfilled (near the opening).
If it's convenient for you and you want it done I say go for it. It's your truck and your build!