Introducing the “NEW” Alu-Cab Canopy Camper

[seatoskyexplorer]

If there are two feeds, I would use two smaller fuses instead of one bigger one. Then you reduce the chance of drawing too much current through one smaller feed wire and not blowing the fuse because it’s sized to handle the current for both feed wires and all 8 switch circuits.

It’s also a little more granular, where if you blow one fuse then the other four switch circuits continue to work. Since this appears to be a panel of circuit breakers, I would assume each circuit itself is protected by tripping it’s own breaker.


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Thanks @TailLights. I do like the point about the granularity. Correct, each circuit is protected by its own breaker. I dug up some photos of various installations and it looks like it's common to place a positive bus right beside the switch panel and then run the short feeds from the panel directly to the bus with no fuse - presumably the main feed to the bus is on a breaker in that case...

 

[sn_85]

Question regarding the Alu-Cab rear tire mount: would this aux fuel tank work? Full of diesel (~7lbs/gal), maybe 90 lbs? Typical 33" spare might be ~85 lbs; perhaps fine with just the tank, but I'm guessing the combination could be too much for the system?

Probably too much for the stock wheel plate. I know @seekoutbeauty had custom wheel plates made to accommodate heavier wheels and larger tires for extra support but not sure an extra 90lbs worth.

 

[Ericwashi]

Thanks @TailLights. I do like the point about the granularity. Correct, each circuit is protected by its own breaker. I dug up some photos of various installations and it looks like it's common to place a positive bus right beside the switch panel and then run the short feeds from the panel directly to the bus with no fuse - presumably the main feed to the bus is on a breaker in that case...

This is what I did for mine. What’s nice about the Blue Sea Deck Panel is that all of the breakers are interchangeable, so you can protect different accessories. I swapped one of the 15A with a 40A for the compressor.

@rino did recommend putting a small fuse between the positive bus bar and the positive for the panel lights connection, though!


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[alexik]

Have anyone thought of changing the handle/door lock ? I wondered if Something like this will work.
Personally I will prefer something that can be open/locked from inside too. A regular padlock with the standard latch wouldn’t be much of a deterrent in where I reside unfortunately.

 

[Mtpisgah]

That would be interesting. You would need to put one on each side of the door or change the hinge bolts to anti tamper because someone could just remove the bolts and gain access.

 

[seatoskyexplorer]

This is what I did for mine. What’s nice about the Blue Sea Deck Panel is that all of the breakers are interchangeable, so you can protect different accessories. I swapped one of the 15A with a 40A for the compressor.

@rino did recommend putting a small fuse between the positive bus bar and the positive for the panel lights connection, though!


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I was thinking of running the panel lights through one of the switches on the panel so they can be turned off - I'd like to be able to keep my fridge running without the panel lights on.
Do you have them hooked up directly to the positive bus (if so, do you use the master battery switch / breaker switch to turn them off, or something else)?

 

[Ericwashi]

I was thinking of running the panel lights through one of the switches on the panel so they can be turned off - I'd like to be able to keep my fridge running without the panel lights on.
Do you have them hooked up directly to the positive bus (if so, do you use the master battery switch / breaker switch to turn them off, or something else)?

I have the panel lights (the lights that power the backlight on the Blue Sea Deck Panel switches) wired directly to the positive bus bar with a 1A inline fuse. These stay on at all times and I don't have the ability to turn them on/off.

 

[Vst]

Hey guys I’m thinking of making the switch to a canopy camper for my tacoma I currently have a four wheel camper. Im thinking I want something more permanent always on and setup to make quick and last minute trips easier. I’m wondering how you guys are liking the more permanent setups?

 

[gnel]

I'm loving mine!

 

[seekoutbeauty]

Hey guys I’m thinking of making the switch to a canopy camper for my tacoma I currently have a four wheel camper. Im thinking I want something more permanent always on and setup to make quick and last minute trips easier. I’m wondering how you guys are liking the more permanent setups?

Best thing ever.
What concerns do you have?

 

[Vst]

Best thing ever.
What concerns do you have?

Just wondering how use full the bed is still with the back door on it? My bed is useless when my camper is on. Also I’m trying to get my rear suspension dialed in with a constant weight in the back. When my camper isn’t on and with my airbags the ride is a bit stiff. I’m really leaning towards the switch because to have the Alu cab on all time seems like a more rugged camper than my FWC

 

[clintium]

Have anyone thought of changing the handle/door lock ? I wondered if Something like this will work.
Personally I will prefer something that can be open/locked from inside too. A regular padlock with the standard latch wouldn’t be much of a deterrent in where I reside unfortunately.

Did you ever make any progress on this idea? I feel like I need more than a padlock. They’re notoriously easy to remove with an angle grinder. I guess someone with an angle grinder could just cut the whole lock out of the door panel even if you installed a deadbolt like you’re proposing. Ideally I’d have both.

It really doesn’t seem too bad to do what you’re talking about.

Are you using a specific padlock in the meantime?


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[Wingknut]

On the canopy camper, I think you can remove the 2 bolts on the hasp on the back door lock with a correctly sized wrench, so no need for a grinder.

It seems like the handle is prone to a bolt cutter attack too but I haven’t tried. Stainless can be tough.

I’m also wondering if you pounded a screwdriver in the side locks and then twisted would the cores fail? Probably, but I’m not contributing my canopy to test.

A hasp/puck lock like the one linked below seems most suitable but requires mounting:

Hidden-Shackle Stainless Steel Hockey-Puck and Hasp Combo Kit - PACLOCK

KT2177S/779 Kit including 304 Stainless Steel Hidden-Shackle Hockey-Puck-Style Lock, Patent-Pending, Cone-Shaped Anti-Drill Front, Flat Back, Mounted to PACLOCK's PL779 Hasp, Standard Rekeyable Brass Cylinder with Anti-Pick and Bump Resistant Technology, Made in the USA with Global Components

www.paclock.com

As for me I use a big pad lock and I think I’m gonna swap out one of the hasp bolts with a security nut or something.

 

[siebermd]

My Canopy camper gets installed next week. ?
Super Excited

 

[clintium]

Initial impressions: it's amazing! Really stoked. The guys at Tiny Rig Co. did a great job on the install. day 1 photo album

Tomorrow I'm planning to finish building and installing my electrical system. Thread for that here.

I need to figure out how to get my backup camera installed. I have one I think will fit well right between the 3rd brake light and the alu-cab door. If anyone has experience or advice on that, I'm all ears. Not really sure what to do just yet. I have this Kenwood CMOS-740hd camera. I was hoping I could just use the existing wiring from the camera integrated into the tailgate handle. Initial look around and I can't figure out what happened to those wires when the tailgate was removed.

I think I'd like to get a roof rack over the cab at some point. Both for practicality and because all that dead space looks weird. I'm also pretty interested in the slide out table sold by alu-cabin. It hangs from the overhang of the alu-cab above the truck cab. It's not available for doublecab trucks yet though. And then there's that big wedge between the cab and the alu-cabin. Seems like it could be put to really good use. Any ideas?

This shell has so many t-slot rails or whatever they're called. I'm going to need to become proficient in working with it. Really exciting because it gives so much flexibility. I think I'm going to keep everything very minimalistic and industrial. Everything mounted to t slots and unistrut.

I added the awning last minute and I'm really happy I did. It's a lot of money but it's so damn easy to use. I just need to figure out how to rig up some tarps as walls when I'm planning to be somewhere for an extended period.

Didn't notice any wind noise or effects to the overall driving experience. It's probably in my head but the ride actually felt a little better. That could definitely be credited to finally getting my accutune'd rear kings shocks loaded correctly. They were calibrated for the weight of the camper so they've been underloaded I guess technically.