Introduction and My Ford Fiberine Super Camper build

[smugdoug]

I need input on putting plywood in the fiberglass!

OK, back on topic. One of the things I really need some input on is the plywood in the top. It seems overkill to put it in the glass. If I put a rack on the top it shouldn't need reinforcement, because more than likely I'll attach it to the sides of the top. I plan on them putting some pine wood strips for attaching the interior to.

 

[dankine]

Ply wood

Smugdough If your plan is to have a 24'' hi-top.

Go light !!!!!

Try to make the built light as much as possible. My van has a 30'' hi-top, it is reinforce with ply-wood.

There is two things I hate about my van. First it's top heavy. Really not fun in windy days. The second thing the V8 engine but that another topic

Dan

 

[smugdoug]

The top is going to be the Fiberine "Super Camper" that I believe is 30". When I started inquiring about the 24" bubble top she never mentioned Plywood reinforcement. Now that I"ve decided on the taller and longer Super Camper top she has twice told me to add the plywood incase I add a rack. I will not be adding a rack right away but still don't plan on walking on top of the van at least until I get a light rack up there. I guess I will be telling them no on the Plywood but will probably ask that they put the 3 pine strips in there.

 

[chasespeed]

Not knowing much about tops... but, knowing some things about boats....

I would inquire as to what size, and kind of plywood they would normally add. It would probably be sandwiched in the glass matting(best).

I wouldnt think anything bigger than 1/4 marine grade would be used, which, overall, is pretty light. It will also add some addidtional strength to the top regardless....

Chase

 

[dsw4x4]

I would stay away from adding plywood to the whole top the reason for this you will never "need" to walk around on your roof. You may want to but you will never need to. Think about how many car roofs have you walked around on in your life time? My personal van roof is plenty stout to be walking on and I have only been on it a couple times to tie stuff down and when I am up there I walk on the rack anyway. I did a fiberine bubble top with the reinforced plywood and that top was one inch thick 3/4 plywood and 1/4 in glass the 13 inch by 13 inch square I cut out for the fantastic fan weighs just under 5 pounds. As for strength fiberine has got to be the strongest and heaviest out there. Now as for a roof rack if you are going with the style that reaches all way to the rain gutter then I would not have any reinforcement put in the roof. If you are going to use a rack like mine

I would then have them use extra plywood strips 6 to 8 inches wide on the edges of the ceiling front to back and that would be where I would mount the rack to. Then you can build your rack to suit your needs and walk on the rack instead of the roof.
As for insulating the interior roof I use quiet ride insulation and glue it to the roof with the supplied glue then glue your carpet or what ever it is you want for a head liner to that. It seems to work great and keeps the weight down by reducing strips and hardware to hold up other forms of headliners.
Good luck with your build

 

[4Rescue]

That's a cool looking van as is. I like the panel sides and 4wd. Can't wait to see it progress eh.

Cheers

Dave

 

[smugdoug]

4Rescue are speaking about Dereks Van Or My soon to be Camper Van? Derek does incredible work and he has great ideas that he makes happen.

Derek thanks for the reply!

I think I will be insulating with R-Tech but I'm not totally commited to that stuff, I will find out if Fiberine will put in some 1/2" ply strips(3" wide)on the inside ceiling. The thought was to put the R-Tech between the Plywood ribbs on the ceiling and cover it with Luan and the foam backed fabric headliner stuff. Any thoughts? For the sides I will just glue in my own 1/2" strips so as I can play with location keeping a rack in mind and also an awning. I've seen heavy items attached to Fiberglas that have made it spider web and I want to make sure to have something for fasteners to attach to on the inside.

 

[smugdoug]

Visit to Fiberine

Alright, finally made my visit to Fiberine and put my deposit down on the Super Camper Top:wings:

When I was there they had just, in the last day or two, finished a Super Camper top and here are my spy photos of the inside, you'll notice the strips of wood through out the fiberglass. I call it waffle board, but I can't remember the actual term for this board.

I told Annabel to replicate this configuration of wood for mine minus some of the wood toward the front, on the sides, Because I'm not sure about exact placement of my windows at this point. There is a lot of wood around the rear, where the A/C unit platform is. What are the opinions out there? I still feel like it is too much wood now that I'm home. I will be calling Fiberine tomorrow and let her know if there will be any modifications to the amount of wood used.

 

[smugdoug]

Bubble top install pics.

Also while I was there I took some pics of a van they had just installed the bubble top on. You can see how the flange sits. This should give anyone who doesn't know what a reverse flange looks like a good idea of the benefits of this type of top.

 

[RocKrawler]

Also while I was there I took some pics of a van they had just installed the bubble top on. You can see how the flange sits. This should give anyone who doesn't know what a reverse flange looks like a good idea of the benefits of this type of top.

Appreciate the pics, looks like it would be an easy user install, but what exactly are the benefits (since I dont know how the other style mounts to compare it to..). And how /what do you plan to use to finish it out so the bare rough glass interior doesnt show?
EDIT: And whats the weight of that unit pictured above?

 

[smugdoug]

I was told the Super Camper top was between 350-400 lbs. I believe it was Sandi with a bubble top that replied that their Regular body van weighed ~200 lbs. more after there install. Shorter top, plus the removal of the metal roof.

If you don't have a reverse flange you must attach the screws from the outside of the top through a metal trim ring at an angle to make it through to the metal roof, then there is a rubber seal that you press on that covers the screws. With the reverse flange you sandwich your seal between the top and metal roof with much more surface contact. Please do not quote me on this, I have only seen the reverse flange in person. I think it's Cycle Van that has a video where they show the one I described being installed.

Interior will be approximately 1/2 inch of insulation on top of the fiberglass. I have looked at RMAX, which is Polyisocyanurate. Also Ultratouch is of interest for sound and radiant barrier. On top of that 3/16" Luan then foam backed fabric similar to headliner material. I have heard of reflectix but it doesn't seem like it works well without some air space between it and the top.

 

[RocKrawler]

Just looked at fiberine's website & noticed they have a liner available, any reason against using that instead of the luan/fabric? Looks like a very nice finish and would help with interior lighting as well - first noticed it on the van currently for sale in the classified area, and kinda like the idea and finish, but didnt know if there was a better reason not to use it

 

[smugdoug]

Just looked at fiberine's website & noticed they have a liner available, any reason against using that instead of the luan/fabric? Looks like a very nice finish and would help with interior lighting as well - first noticed it on the van currently for sale in the classified area, and kinda like the idea and finish, but didnt know if there was a better reason not to use it

The Liner is currently only available for the Bubble top with an additional $450. I was told that they had not completed a Super Camper top yet with this liner, but they seemed hopeful that they could do it. I would imagine the liner would add to the weight and probably cost an additional ~$600 bucks, everything is more expensive on the bigger top!. Also you better have your electrical figured out before making the decision for that liner. Just a few more options without the liner, but yes it has a nice smooth finish and then if you want foam insulation between the liner and top another $130 bucks. I guess you have to draw the line somewhere, and to me it gives you more options knowing you can add additional lighting and take your time designing the interior without wondering whats under the liner to attach to etc.

 

[Photog]

Air Conditioner question: Are you going to add more height to your van, by placing the AC on top?

or

Are you going to cut it into the roof, like a Roadtrek and some of the other Class B manufacturers?

There are a dozen ways to do this, but I always liked keeping the vehicle height down, when possible (without going to a pop-top).

Here is what ours looks like from the outside. You can see the AC vents at the center-rear.

I don't have a picture from the inside, but ours has cabinet space, on both sides of the AC unit, so the space is well used. If you put your bed at the rear, under the AC, you won't walk into the AC unit.

 

[smugdoug]

No plan to modify the top. We will not be installing an A/C unit right away. Possibly down the road I'll look into a low profile unit. The rear of the top has an area for the A/C that sits down 4-6 compare to the rest of the top.

Our Bed is going to go in the front of the top, and our galley will be in the rear.