Is it safe to screw a Partners Steel stove onto a Goose Gear Camp Kitchen stove slide?

donmontalvo

Member
I finally completed building out my 2021 JLUR, so I have the full Goose Gear plate system (rear seats deleted), and the Camp Kitchen 2.3 with drawer module.

I'm trying to decide if it's a good idea to bolt the stove onto the stove slide, since it moves around a lot when I'm on the road.

I tried strapping it down, since the stove slide has strap holes, but it's a PITA and not very secure.

Goose Gear told me I can screw the stove to the slide, and coming from them that's a great idea.

Didn't know there are mounting holes on the stove slide. My only real concern is will I be able to cook, clean, etc., without worrying about leaks?

Anyone bolt their Partners Steel stove onto their Camp Kitchen stove slider?


TIA,
Don
 

donmontalvo

Member
I am reading this on a cell phone. Glad I read beyond the 7th word in the byline.

OMG that's hilarious! :)

I need to secure the 22" Partners Steel stove onto my new Camp Kitchen 2.3.

Goose Gear told me most folks do it, but they had no suggestions.

Just want to make sure it won't leak grease, not sure if special rubber(?) gaskets are needed?
 

donmontalvo

Member
I have stainless steel bolts with nylock nuts.

I guess my hesitation is centered around sealing to prevent leaking, while being heat resistant.
 

Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
What leaks are you expecting?

I've had a very rare boil-over with pasta, but even that didn't result in a significant amount of liquid anywhere in/around my camp-stoves. I'm trying to understand what failure mode you're trying to prevent.
 

donmontalvo

Member
I ordered some stainless steel nuts/bolts that have heat/oil resistant seals.

Probably overthinking it, but that's fine, better safe than sorry.

DonM 2022-12-24 at 11.41.54.png
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
As long as you are into overthinking stuff, consider that type of screws used won’t matter to the bear that rips your rig apart to get what you cooked in it! ?
 

Gear

Explorer, Overland Certified OC0020
Simple - two 1/4-20 bolts a couple of washers and two wing nuts. Perfect for when you want to remove the stove for cleaning or taking it to a picnic table. I have been using this setup for 4 years. Works perfectly.

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donmontalvo

Member
I spoke to the bolt shop, their prices were outrageous, I mean for this application. :)

So I stopped by Home Depot to pick up some Stainless Steel nuts, bolts, wing-nuts, and plumbing washers. 1/4”x20 is the perfect size, and the plumbing washers just had to be snug, they’ll expand when i tighten the wing-nuts.

The bolt goes up from the bottom, the big washers will protect the stove/slider from warping when I tighten down the wing-nuts enough to compress the plumbing washers. This will provide a good seal the to prevent leaks.

Now I just need to mark the four spots under the slider and to the stove, so I can drill the four 1/4” holes and Dremel the edges of the holes to protect the Bear’s paws when it tries to heist my stove in the middle of the night.

I’ll update this post with pictures of the finished install.

Happy New Year!

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JackW

Explorer
You could also use a draw latch mounted to the outside of the stove - but the wing nut idea is much simpler


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donmontalvo

Member
Thanks, ship sailed though, will keep it in mind if I decide to redo. I ended up putting the wing-nuts on the bottom. Worked fine except for the fourth bolt that requires some finger contortionist advanced skills. If i had to do that bolt over again I would have drilled a new hole.

The stove is in the perfect spot and secured, and leak proof. #damnthebears
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JackW

Explorer
Now that you have the bolt locations, put some rivnuts on the bottom plate and you can eliminate the contortionist routine. You can get some aluminum thumb screws from Mcmaster Carr.
 

donmontalvo

Member
Thanks for the info. I think I’m all set. My concern was grease leaking through the bottom of the stove. That wont happen now.
 

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