Is it worth it?

[vengeful]

I am in a bit of a pickle. My 99 Pathfinder has 146,707 miles on it, and has been, well, used rather roughly. The wear is starting to show, very much so. It is getting to the point where I am not sure whether it is worth it to try to fix it, or if I should move on, buy another R50 and transfer mods over so I will be ensured a more reliable vehicle for the future. Here is what I know is wrong with it:

Rear suspension needs completely rebuilt
Front suspension needs completely rebuilt
Passengers side slider mounts are trashed, and drivers side are weak, will require welding on the unibody to repair.
The unibody structure itself is beginning to show signs of fatigue.
There are emissions related issues, including EGR, IACV, untraceable EVAP, exhaust manifold and catalytlc converter problems.

Whichever way I go, I will need to replace the rear coils and tires, so I am not taking that into account. I know that the truck itself is not worth what it will cost me to repair it on an open market, though the sentimental value of it is high enough to me to warrant me wanting to fix it, or build another Pathy the same way, especially if I could start with a Pathfinder that has ALL of the standard features that I wish mine had.

The only way I would do this is if I could find a suitable replacement, 1997-1999 Old Style Pathfinder, 4x4, SE with the black pack, sport package and premium package, with fewer miles than mine has, no rust, under $6,000.

I could probably repair my truck for less than $4,000, but with the unibody showing signs of fatigue, it seems to me that it's only a matter of time before something major fails and the vehicle becomes unsafe to drive.

I guess I'm just looking for some reassurance that it's not worth it to fix mine, and that it would be silly to just dump it and buy something different, with all of the mods that I have done, especially since I can buy another one, and transfer over the mods.

Thoughts? Ideas? Am I totally crazy?

 

[nissandoms47]

No. Just do what I did and buy an X. And return your pathy to stock and sell it.

 

[Hunter]

I know a few guys who have have wheeled their Cherokees into the ground. Out here in Arizona, rocks are common and with rocks come lots of flex, and lots of stress. After a years of abuse, the chassis was litteraly failing. (seams turing into cracks, cracks turning into tears) I would imagine the Nissan's are stronger built than the Cherokees, but there is still the uni-body construction to worry about.

I guess it is up to you and only you know how much abuse it has really seen, and what the true condtion of your vehcile is in. Ya know, they way our rides only talk to us? If it is bad as you feared, you plan on keeping the new one for a looong time, then it could be a worthy investment. Think of the issues you could have done the road when you have major problems. At least now, you can sell the current. In few years, you may not and still stuck starting over.

 

[madizell]

Is this your daily driver? If so, replace it. If it is not, used primarily as an off-road toy, then do the maintenance and have fun. The largest problems listed, in my opinion, are the emissions related items simply because of the cost and difficulty of tracking and repairing such things. You could start with all new rubber under the hood, which could eliminate much of the untraceable leaks. Other things, such as sensors, should be replaced periodically anyway. Rather than spend time and money trying to diagnose engine problems, I would start with new hoses, then do the diagnostics. Then, if you can't find the gremlins, sell it and find something else.

 

[vengeful]

Right now, yes, it's my DD. I plan on keeping whatever vehicle I end up using for a very long time, and using it for expedition work, so it needs to be in tip-top shape. The salt corrosion, coupled with the unibody issues are my biggest concern, then the emissions problems. If it were just suspension issues, I wouldn't blink an eye at fixing it.

Alex, I don't want an X. Everyone and their mother has one. LOL.

 

[The BN Guy]

What about a newer Pathy? Regardless of what you pickup, I'd recommend getting something else.

 

[vengeful]

I do agree that it should be replaced. The emissions problems will cost me in the area of $2500-3000 to have diagnosed and fixed (I don't have the time to deal with it myself). The unibody issues, well, those can't really be safely resolved. The suspension parts will cost me about $1000 plus installation.

I figure if I can find a good candidate R50 Pathfinder for under $6,000, it's worth it to buy it and replace the current one, transfer over some of the mods, and start fresh, then part out the good stuff from the old one, and junk it.

 

[vengeful]

Ok, so it's not nearly as bad as I had feared. I put it up on a lift today at work, and went over it very very carefully.

I was only able to find one point that was ove any mild concern, and it's easily fixable.

I figured out why the slider mounts failed, and have an easy fix for them, too.

The only real concern now is the emissions stuff, but I think I have an idea of where to start with that.

Now I just have to find the money to fix the suspension so I can get the tires on there.

 

[system-f]

First thing, get the hell out of the salt belt otherwise you are just going to destroy anything you buy and buy a daily driver. You are better off to spend 1-2k on a piece of crap econo box and drive the R50 when you really WANT to drive.


Second thing, don't give into that nice warm fuzzy 'new' feeling...it is a crap feeling and you need to stick with what you have. No matter WHAT you get it is going to require work and it is better to start with something you know.


You have the strongest drive train of any pre 05/Titan Nissan vehicle with a tough unibody. (reverse cut gears in our front diff vs. the D/WD22) The R50 unibody is so far from an XJ unibody it is not even funny.


1st thing do what I did and get some good angle, or better yet C change 1/4" or thicker and WELD ON YOUR SLIDERS!!! this is very important; those stock bolt in mounts would have failed 1000 off-road miles ago on the caR50.
If you want to do it REALLY good then line the 'frame' raile with 1/4" channel. Matt did this to his XJ and the unibody is almost twist free.

The next thing you need to do is pull the interior and clean. Make sure all wiring is in good shape and clean the crap out of the truck. Just doing this can make your truck feel SO MUCH better.

Let's move to the front suspension, replace those front a-arm busings with AC's poly...made the caR50 drive like a new truck. Also replace those balljoints, not cheap at $58 a piece but worth it.


On the rear suspension replace all the link bushings and those springs.


WOW look at that, your entire suspension bushings/joints have been replaced save the track bar. Sure was easier than dealing with torsion bars...

 

[nissandoms47]

Yeah but xterras and that have ucas. r50s do not. I kept bending my struts and it was a major pain.

 

[system-f]

I have no idea how you are bending your struts. I have done quite a bit with the caR50, and when I wheel I treat my truck with as much respect as a loved one.