Is regearing a Dana 35 really a waste of $$$?

[greengreer]

New to jeeps and have been doing a ton of reading but can't seem to find a definitive answer...

I recently bought a '97 Wrangler 4.0 5spd that has 3.5-4" lift and 33x10.50x15's but stock 3.07 gears and open diffs.

We live in the mountains of CO and the jeep will be used as a runaround as well as exploring forest service roads and trails. We also plan to flat tow behind out pickup/truck camper occasionally.

There's no 35's in my future or hardcore rock crawling, but some of the forest service roads around here can have some decent obstacles. I am also looking for good DD mannerism's and low drama snow and ice driving in the mountains.

So I 've read lockers + 33's don't mix with the dana 35, but perhaps a truetrac would not put as much of a strain on the axles? I've had/have torsen limited slips in other vehicles and am definitely a fan.

Would the 35 live with the true trac and 33's? How about cromo axles? Most of what I've read/heard/watched on youtube about them failing involved gratuitous skinny pedal, but every once in a while there's an anecdote of a "guy who broke an axle shaft backing out of the driveway" ...

While I'm here and asking questions that have most likely been answered, what's the consensus on putting a true trac in the front as well? Will it be predictable in the snow?

Sorry to beat a dead horse but this thing is going in the shop next week. I am very much a buy once, cry once kind of guy but I want to keep this TJ light and simple and overall cheap.

 

[Mickey Bitsko]

According to the jeepers on the jeep forum, nothing larger than a 32" on d35.
I recently put 373's in my jeep wj 4.0. With a ls, I also live pt in Colorado, it's a nice gear for a dd and off road, just have to use your gears accordingly.

 

[Zeep]

You may want to consider a part out Jeep, for a set D44's. You didn't mention how many miles on your '97.
The fact that it is nearly 30 yrs. old, could affect the reliablity of the 4.0. At that age sensors and such tend to deteriorate. Long cranking, hard starts, plague older 4.0's, with cheap aftermarket sensors.
Sorry about getting off topic!

 

[greengreer]

I've been looking around for at least a rear D44, haven't had a ton of luck or I am looking at $1k+ then cost of regear and traction device. 8.8's are much easier to find and cheaper but still some expense and work involved. Also read it may create more driveline issues? I don't mind cutting and welding new brackets on, and disc brakes are always welcome but don't seem needed.

General consensus seems to be 4.56 with the 33's + 4.0 + AX15. Although 4.10s can be found in several different axles and I wouldn't be paying for a regear. Not sure if it would leave me wanting deeper gears. Right now 5th is basically useless and 1st takes a good bit of slipping on anything but flat ground to get moving. I'd really like first to be a granny gear and be able to cruise in 5th at 60-70mph in the flats.

Mechanically it runs and drives great. 170k on the clock, starts right up and runs like a sewing machine. Tiny drip at the rear main and valve cover gasket, I'll let the rear main go but will probably slap a new VC gasket in there soon.
Whoever installed the lift skipped a few steps and didn't relocate the front track bar mounting hole over as well as half assed the rear track bar bracket spacer on. Threw some new bushings in the lower control arms and a new steering gear (play in the sector shaft). Now it drives nice and straight, runs good, shifts smooth, brakes are fine, etc... Just a total dog because of the gearing.

 

[NatersXJ6]

So, it’s not exactly parallel and not a D35, but I recently re-geared my 2014 JKUR with automatic from 3.73 to 4.56 still running 33’s that are very close to stock tire size (measure 31-13/16 when new).

It had about 150k on the odometer, and was just having trouble keeping up with things like freeway merging, as I’ve added a bit of weight over the years and started towing a trailer more often. I live in the flats, but spend every minute I can in the mountains.

I did the work myself, including buying a couple of specialty tools, and was less than $1000 all-in with seals, oil, cleaners, gaskets, etc… then I had to buy a torque multiplier to crush the front sleeve properly, so it became a $1500 project.

The change in drive ability has been amazing. I wouldn’t hesitate to do it again. I waffled for a long time because of the overall cost and perceived permanence of the change… but it has been brilliant.

The only minor issue in my mind is that with the Rubicon 4:1 Low, I’ve lost some of the low speed control I used to have on trails and have to learn a new driving style. The engine wants to wind a little fast on hill descent and 2nd is now my climbing gear instead of first. I use brakes more downhill just to keep the transfer case whine down. I’m sure it is probably fine, but it really sounds different…. Bad-different. So I might need to get used to new noises!

Summary: if you can do the work yourself, dive in and do it!

Extra thought… get a set of really small tires that would simulate the same gear change and drive around for a week looking dumb but testing your drive experience!

 

[NatersXJ6]

I missed part of your question: in my experience driving in snow and mountains in Michigan, Wisconsin, California… I do not believe that any automatic locker equals “low drama” on snow and ice. Especially if side hills are involved.

If you can’t afford selectable lockers put 1/2 that $$ into a decent winch. You rarely need the lockers with a good suspension.

 

[Hegear]

I ran 35s on a 35 for 3-4yrs. I didn’t re gear and it had a stick. Had a lockrite in it. I was always stressed me out, but didn’t have any problems. Probably went to Moab 5-6 times with it. Ran the rim, posisen spider golden spike, hells revenge etc. Put about 30000 miles on it and then decided to move to 37s and 44s.

I didn’t have any weight other than passengers light camping etc. I’d say leave it alone and I think you will be ok for your application.

 

[greengreer]

Thanks for the reply, good to hear!

 

[cruiserdude80]

If I'm not mistaken, some aftermarket companies used to offer D35 upgrade kits that might address your concerns. The upgrade kits got rid of the C-clips that seemed to be the main problem.

 

[rnArmy]

It depends on how much of a risk you're willing to take, and what the consequences of busting an axle in the middle of nowhere means to you. There's a reason they call them the "Turdy-five" axle.

On my 98 TJ I just bit the bullet and had a Dana 44 built to my specs (33-spline alloy axles, 4.88 gears, Detroit Softlocker). Wasn't cheap, but all new parts (reused my rear drum brakes), and I got peace-of-mind - insurance if you will. There's no way my 2.5 engine is going to break 33-spline alloy axle.

There are a couple places out there that will build an axle to your specs. East Coast Gear Supply (ECGS) is one, Northridge is another off the top of my head. I've had a Dana 44 axle built by both places and was happy with each. Northridge built my TJ's, ECGS build one for our 98 ZJ (alloy axles, True Trac, 4.10 gears).

 

[Mickey Bitsko]

Op, appears you have common sense, follow your judgment and you'll be fine.
A wise man once said " an idiot can break anything ", more true today than ever.
Enjoy your new toy.

 

[DaveInDenver]

A wise man once said " an idiot can break anything ", more true today than ever.

That's basically what I was thinking. A D35 isn't as strong as a D44 or D60 but it's strong enough to do. So I'd throw out for consideration that re-gearing and putting in lockers can lead you down two paths.

One is you will be harder on your truck tackling harder obstacles. That's the most typical reason people upgrade their trucks. More capability leads to harder trails, so you're in effect just staying even.

Or these modifications might allow you to go easier on your truck. I found that when I put a front locker in my previous truck that I broke *fewer* axles (this being IFS and CV axles) because now the torque is always split (this is not inconsequential, you lift a front tire a lot with IFS) and basically I didn't have to work as hard getting over stuff. Less throttle, less damage. To break less stuff you want to go slow and in control over stuff.

So you have to have a plan with what you want. If you want to push your truck then throwing money into a D35 is probably ultimately wasted. But if you really think you can keep it mellow then sensible upgrading could make it more reliable. The downside is you might sink just as much money into it as you would have going to a D44 but won't have given yourself much room to grow later.

But a lot of money is thrown into a "what-if" hole. Just ask yourself do you really need it to get where you want to go?

 

[greengreer]

Thanks for the replies...

To update, the jeep is in the shop getting the dana 35 re-geared and a limited slip carrier. I found a nice used dana 30 already setup with 4.56's and a true trac for the front that I'll swap when I get the jeep back.

I decided to stick with the 35 mostly because I want to keep it simple and get this thing on the road asap. Time will tell if that was a bad choice or not. My biggest hesitation is certainly breaking an axle and being stranded somewhere. It's a shame the shafts are slightly different lengths, carrying an extra on trails seems like a decent plan but 2 starts to seem like overkill for some reason.

 

[NatersXJ6]

You always break the one you don’t have, so if you carry both you’ll never break one.

It would be interesting to develop a universal repair shaft, with splines and a break off or cut off section to create the shorter shaft from a longer one.

Another idea that could make you into a hundredaire in a few short years!

 

[1stDeuce]

There's nothing wrong with a D35 in a 4 cylinder Jeep, especially if you're not going to drive it like an idiot. I'm running one behind the swapped in 3.4L in our Comanche, and it's holding up fine.

The strangeness is that you have 3.07 axles... A 4 cyl manual should have come with 4:10's from the factory, at least in the US. I suspect someone swapped axles with another Jeep somewhere in the past and you got the by product... 3.07's would have been in a 2.5L or 4.0L auto.

The 4:56's will be much better either way. I run a front TrueTrac in my TJ and I love it! Our Comanche has a Grip Pro LSD in the back because I didn't want a lunchbox locker banging away back there, and I didn't want to twist an axle. The Grip Pro is basically a poor man's TrueTrac, and it works at least as good in my experience!

Pro tip: If you expect to climb through an area where the suspension will cross it up and you might spin out on opposite corners, ride the brake a bit going in. That gets the TT and rear LSD to lock up a bit, preventing the wheel slip that might otherwise occur. Going for the brake after it's spinning works too, but it can be harder on things, especially with the grip pro...

Another tip is that the TruTrac works better with regular 80W90. I ran synthetic in mine for a while and it was definitely noticeable, with less ability to transfer torque... I suspect the same goes with the Grip Pro so I run the smelly cheap stuff in both now.