Japanese SUV goodness: 2001 Isuzu Trooper

[BIGdaddy]

I think my conclusions based on those tests are:

• A rear traction device is a must for rocky so-cal trails, though I'm undecided on which one. ARB has an air locker and I think Detroit makes one, too. Might go for loaded, re-geared 3rd members if I can find them, to compensate for tires.
• Keeping the center of gravity low is a priority with how much this thing flexes basically stock
• 285-75r16 size tires are probably what I'll be seeking
• So far, having driven on these OME springs for a week, I'm smitten. They're exactly what I wanted. Big improvement.

 

[BigSwede]

I think my conclusions based on those tests are:
[*] A rear traction device is a must for rocky so-cal trails, though I'm undecided on which one. ARB has an air locker and I think Detroit makes one, too. Might go for loaded, re-geared 3rd members if I can find them, to compensate for tires.
No Detroit. I think there is an ARB for the Isuzu modified 12-bolt. Hope so, because I don't think there is anything else. If needed you would swap the rear axle and front third member from a 95-97 Trooper, which would give you 4.56 gears and a rear standard 12-bolt which there is definitely an ARB for, and possibly a lunchbox locker from Australia.

[*]Keeping the center of gravity low is a priority with how much this thing flexes basically stock
As you have seen, the front IFS doesn't flex much but the rear flexes a lot - more than any other stock SUV I have seen. And just as a general concept I agree with going as high as necessary, as low as possible. I only have 4" lift on my Trooper to fit 35s, I see no reason to go higher. For 33s you don't really need any more lift than the 929 coils have given you already.

[*]285-75r16 size tires are probably what I'll be seeking
[*]So far, having driven on these OME springs for a week, I'm smitten. They're exactly what I wanted. Big improvement.
Yep.

 

[BIGdaddy]

Dont mind me, just putting this info from elsewhere on the interwebz here for safekeeping:

there is some mis-information in this thread....and still slightly confusing.
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the 87-91 troopers, use the 12 bolt rear non ABS (leaf sprung)
the rear e-brake is on the caliper:
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26 spline - 1.32" shaft , 5.44" ring gear ID
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the 92-97 use the same 3rd, but coil spung w/ the addition of ABS on most...rear e-brake is a drum in the "hat" of the rotor for the disk brakes
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those 3rds are 4.56 and interchangable w/ or w/ out ABS......
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the amigos and pick up use both of the above
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In 1998..........when the 3.5L was introduced in the Trooper, the gears went to 4.30.....those are the LARGER sometimes called "modified" 12 bolt. 1.5" shafts.....but 23 spline
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23 spline - 1.5" shaft, 6.06" ring ID
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the VX uses the 92-97 trooper 26 spline rear....as it is dirivitive of the 2 door version of the trooper in other countries
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for comparison:
D60 is 1.5" shafts, 35 spline, 6.38" ring gear ID
D44 is 1.31" shaft, 30 spline, 5.56" ring gear ID
Toy 8" 1.31" shaft, 30 spline, 4.96" ring gear ID

 

[BIGdaddy]

Well, 3 year old pro-start battery gave up the ghost this week. I'm a big fan of costco batteries, so after crying a bit over the price of the re-badged interstate group 24F, i plopped it in.

 

[BigSwede]

You would hope to get more than 3 years. My 2010 FJC still has the original battery. I have heard that heat kills batteries quicker than cold, but this thing spent its prior years in CA and AZ so I am surprised it is still going. I suppose I should replace it proactively, I usually do after 5 years, but it still has cranking strong.

 

[BIGdaddy]

Yeah, i'm not sure what did it. It started slow crankin' about 6 months ago, and just finally wouldnt start at all last week. I honestly just thru parts at it (battery) because i dont have time or energy to troubleshoot, nor space to work on it right now.

Once installed, it has been firing up like it used to, so that makes me think it wasnt a tired starter?

 

[shmabs]

If you did end up swapping to an older style 3rd/axle assembly, this seems like a really good deal.

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/ssd/tls/5306333630.html

Mike

 

[BigSwede]

No doubt, that is like half price!

 

[BIGdaddy]

No doubt, that is like half price!

So in that case, what would I need? An older complete axle or just an older style 3rd member to load the locker into? If I was sticking with the same gear ratio, I'm assuming they would use my existing ring and pinion?

 

[BigSwede]

So in that case, what would I need? An older complete axle or just an older style 3rd member to load the locker into? If I was sticking with the same gear ratio, I'm assuming they would use my existing ring and pinion?

You would need a complete rear axle, preferably from a 95-97 Trooper for the proper width. 98+ Troopers have a "modified" 12-bolt rear axle, which has mostly different internal components from the standard 12-bolt, and that locker won't work on it. It is a pretty easy bolt-on swap.

You also have a 4.30 axle ratio, and the 95-97 axle would have 4.56, so you would also need to swap the front diff, but just the third member would be needed there. This is actually more work than the rear swap even though you are just swapping thirds, because you still have to drop the front axle so you can pull the CV axles out to do the swap.

But the net result is a ratio change that is about a 6% change which would help offset the change in final drive ratio from your larger tires.

You also would have to have someone install the locker and set up the gears, usually runs ~$200 around here. And you would need a compressor setup, I recommend the ARB mini compressor which comes with an excellent wiring harness. So this still isn't a cheap operation...but it is $500 less than a new one.

 

[BIGdaddy]

You would need a complete rear axle, preferably from a 95-97 Trooper for the proper width. 98+ Troopers have a "modified" 12-bolt rear axle, which has mostly different internal components from the standard 12-bolt, and that locker won't work on it. It is a pretty easy bolt-on swap.

You also have a 4.30 axle ratio, and the 95-97 axle would have 4.56, so you would also need to swap the front diff, but just the third member would be needed there. This is actually more work than the rear swap even though you are just swapping thirds, because you still have to drop the front axle so you can pull the CV axles out to do the swap.

But the net result is a ratio change that is about a 6% change which would help offset the change in final drive ratio from your larger tires.

You also would have to have someone install the locker and set up the gears, usually runs ~$200 around here. And you would need a compressor setup, I recommend the ARB mini compressor which comes with an excellent wiring harness. So this still isn't a cheap operation...but it is $500 less than a new one.

Ok, so:

• 95-97 rear axle ($ 250.00?)
• Locker ($500)
• compressor ($100)
• Front axle gears loaded onto third member ($250.00) independent4x - http://www.independent4x.com/Isuzu-10-Bolt-Front-3rd-Member_p_50.html
• Labor to install front 3rd (Not doing it...lol) ($600?)
• Boot kit to replace busted CV boots ($140.00)
• Wheel bearings to replace while front is apart ($100)
• Labor to install new rear axle ($200?)
• refurb costs to used axle (brakes/seals,etc ($150)
  

$2500.00 easy in this project...and I'm probably missing some things. I wonder if I don't change gear ratio's, re-use my old gears in the new axle housing, if that would work...

It is nice that it would be 500.00 less, though.

 

[BIGdaddy]

The alternative would be to remain at 4.30. That would save about 1100.00...

 

[BigSwede]

No. The 4.30 gears from your modified 12-bolt won't fit a standard 12-bolt.

But regarding the 4th item on your list, that Indy4x piece would work, but you might be able to find one cheaper at a salvage yard using car-part.com.

But you do need to add ~$200 to set up the ARB locker and gears in the rear axle.

You can do the front wheel bearings anytime, no need to drop the axle for that.

 

[BIGdaddy]

Amazingly enough a local shop started stocking Frontrunner products. I was floored. I immediately grabbed one of these upright 10 gallon water tanks to test out in the trooper. It was a very good fit, both side to side, and overall height. $260.00 or so, seems like a pretty good deal for an internal 10 gallon tank that can be fed via hose kit to the rear door. I also really liked the fact that the 80lbs of water weight would be very low in the vehicle and also would be forward of the rear axle, spreading the weight to between front and back.

 

[BigSwede]

That's pretty cool, assuming you want to keep your rear seats up. Is there a pump or something to get water out without removing it from the vehicle? Or maybe a gravity fed hose from the bottom of the tank...