JCliftonB's Full-Size Overland/Adventure Build

[JCliftonB]

Have the front hub unit bearings checked. They are technically non serviceable but some people grease them through the abs sensor hole. Possibly consider the Dynatrac Free-Spin conversion if you are going to be adding bumpers, winches, slide-in camper.

Swap a set of same year range F350 rear blocks in to compensate for the FWC, Bilstien 5100's and slap on some 285/75/17's and send it.

Thanks I will look into these options for consideration. When you say rear blocks, what exactly are you talking about here?

Im running the dynatrac freespin kit on my 2011 Superduty
I feel it is money well spent. I dont anticipating doing bearings on this truck ever again.

As far as inspections and parts, the only really picky items on these trucks are steering components. Primarily due to the front suspension and how susceptible it is to death wobble. So for tie rods and ends, I suggest OEM for all of it. And make certain ball joints are tight and good. I go OEM for these as well, but you should be fine with a good aftermarket joint.

I will likely go all OEM for the truck as you've suggested. I have a clunk/almost light grind that I feel at my feet when I traverse any sort of reasonable bump. Do you think steering/suspension could be the culprit here? Potentially cab mounts or motor mounts? I will take pictures of what I believe are the motor mounts and will share them shortly.

How many miles ?

130,000. Which for the life-cycle of these motors/transmissions seems to be on the low side. I'd like to get another 100,000 out of them to get my money's worth.

I LOVE that green!!!

As do I! Park Ranger green almost.

It probably needs cab mounts. The S&B silicone are money well spent.

Looks like the S&B's are really pricey. Do you think another aftermarket brand will net similar results?

 

[JCliftonB]

Looks like my body mounts are mostly all deteriorated which will likely be my first item to replace. From my research and Youtube videos, this condition looks to be about par for the course at this age. The underside is still dirty as this was a work vehicle in its previous life, but I will soon get the light pressure washer out to clean it all up.

 

[NoDak]

Thanks I will look into these options for consideration. When you say rear blocks, what exactly are you talking about here?

The 2011-2016 F250 and F350 single rear wheel trucks are essentially the exact same truck. You can take the factory(original equipment) rear 4" leaf spring blocks from an F350 and replace the F250 factory 2" blocks to keep you level with the camper installed.

Cheap and easy way to keep the rear end from sagging until you decide if you want aftermarket or custom spring packs or not.

 

[JCliftonB]

The 2011-2016 F250 and F350 single rear wheel trucks are essentially the exact same truck. You can take the factory(original equipment) rear 4" leaf spring blocks from an F350 and replace the F250 factory 2" blocks to keep you level with the camper installed.

Cheap and easy way to keep the rear end from sagging until you decide if you want aftermarket or custom spring packs or not.

Ah, I see. Didn't realize these had blocks under the leaf packs. I am intending to add airbags on the rear axle to help with the added weight when the camper is on the truck. I'll look into this option which I imagine is cheaper.

 

[JCliftonB]

Bit the bullet and ordered a set of the S&B cab mounts. I am confident that they will tighten up the ride quite a bit.

I've never had to do anything like this but I am going to attempt to install on my own. The installation seems straightforward, though it makes me nervous to unbolt the body from the frame of a vehicle.

Will post here with results and or failures. Any tips are appreciated.

 

[IdaSHO]

Im surprised to see your cab mounts in that kind of shape.

My 2011 with a bit more than 140k on it shows zero signs of cab mount issues.
And its not like ours lived a babied life before we got it (at 110k or so)
It was a service truck from a Canadian mining company, and the underside was essentially sand blasted,
so I assume most of those miles were on rock/gravel roads.

For our setup we went with air bags, with the plan to have a custom set of leafs made and installed.
I still have than in mind, just havnt had the time to do it. But for now the bags work great, Im just not thrilled
about being so dependent upon them with the camper loaded. If we lost a bag we would be in a less than great position.

These trucks are sprung VERY light from the factory in order to have a decent unloaded ride.
Add weight, and they squat big time. And honestly, I wouldnt expect swapping to taller blocks would be enough, at least for us.
Typically we roll between 10k and 11k lbs with 6,500lbs or so on the rear.

 

[JCliftonB]

Im surprised to see your cab mounts in that kind of shape.

My 2011 with a bit more than 140k on it shows zero signs of cab mount issues.
And its not like ours lived a babied life before we got it (at 110k or so)
It was a service truck from a Canadian mining company, and the underside was essentially sand blasted,
so I assume most of those miles were on rock/gravel roads.

For our setup we went with air bags, with the plan to have a custom set of leafs made and installed.
I still have than in mind, just havnt had the time to do it. But for now the bags work great, Im just not thrilled
about being so dependent upon them with the camper loaded. If we lost a bag we would be in a less than great position.

These trucks are sprung VERY light from the factory in order to have a decent unloaded ride.
Add weight, and they squat big time. And honestly, I wouldnt expect swapping to taller blocks would be enough, at least for us.
Typically we roll between 10k and 11k lbs with 6,500lbs or so on the rear.

From what I have seen, you may be an exception as most I see have deteriorated similarly to mine at my year/mileage. Regardless, I am hopeful with the new S&B mounts solve a lot of my unloaded ride issues.

I am very sensitive to the weight on a rig and like to make sure my rig is suited to handle the weight I put on it. At the same time, I am looking to make my setup as lightweight as possible hence the FWC. Aiming to not even get close to my GVWR hopefully.

I think bags are my best option as the camper won't be on the truck 24/7 and will be an around-town vehicle when we are home.

What airbags are you running, IdaSHO?

 

[ExpoMike]

Bit the bullet and ordered a set of the S&B cab mounts. I am confident that they will tighten up the ride quite a bit.

I've never had to do anything like this but I am going to attempt to install on my own. The installation seems straightforward, though it makes me nervous to unbolt the body from the frame of a vehicle.

Will post here with results and or failures. Any tips are appreciated.

Having done this on other vehicles, loosen all of the body mounting bolts on the cab and core support. Then removed one side (drivers or pass) and put a floor jack under the rocker pinch rail. Then just up that side enough to get the top bushings out and put the new ones in as you go. Then drop down, install the lower side but leave the bolts loose. Repeat on other side and then tighten everything up to spec.

 

[JCliftonB]

Having done this on other vehicles, loosen all of the body mounting bolts on the cab and core support. Then removed one side (drivers or pass) and put a floor jack under the rocker pinch rail. Then just up that side enough to get the top bushings out and put the new ones in as you go. Then drop down, install the lower side but leave the bolts loose. Repeat on other side and then tighten everything up to spec.

Thanks for the details. This was my plan of action so I am glad I am on the correct line of attack. I assume when you say "loosen all of the body mounting bolts on the cab and core support" you are talking about the 8 bolts for these cab mounts, correct?

 

[IdaSHO]

What airbags are you running, IdaSHO?

Its an Airlift kit ?

 

[displacedtexan]

Bit the bullet and ordered a set of the S&B cab mounts. I am confident that they will tighten up the ride quite a bit.

I've never had to do anything like this but I am going to attempt to install on my own. The installation seems straightforward, though it makes me nervous to unbolt the body from the frame of a vehicle.

Will post here with results and or failures. Any tips are appreciated.

Install is pretty straightforward.

It seems intimidating, but is really pretty simple.

Don't stress, don't use an impact to tighten them, torque them carefully.

 

[displacedtexan]

Thanks for the details. This was my plan of action so I am glad I am on the correct line of attack. I assume when you say "loosen all of the body mounting bolts on the cab and core support" you are talking about the 8 bolts for these cab mounts, correct?

Yep, loosen all 8 at the start.

 

[ExpoMike]

Thanks for the details. This was my plan of action so I am glad I am on the correct line of attack. I assume when you say "loosen all of the body mounting bolts on the cab and core support" you are talking about the 8 bolts for these cab mounts, correct?

Yep, any mounts that hold the cab on (under cab and core support). The number of them depends on the vehicle. My '55 Chevy wagon has 14 mounts. ?

 

[IdaSHO]

The core support will definitely have a couple, as the cab is joined to the support via the inner fender support.

Certainly not like the old trucks!

 

[JCliftonB]

As luck would have it, the truck developed a new squeak yesterday! It goes away with any throttle and is only audible at idle.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what I should check/replace?