Jeep Grand Cherokee WK - Front Suspension Help

[nwoods]

Hey guys, I ordered a bunch of MOOG parts with the goal of replacing the ball joints, tie rod ends, and suspension bushings while upgrading to OME MD struts and springs up front. I might have bit off more than I can chew with these goals.

1. How do I remove the upper control arm ball joint? Is it removable? Does it push up and exit through the top?

2. Similar question at Lower Control Arm. It looks like nothing I’ve seen on YouTube. The new ball joint clearly pushes up from underneath, but I have no idea how to get that old one out first.

3. Back to the UCA.... the new ball joint is asymmetrical, with a notable offset. I think this is specifically to accommodate the lift, but just want to make sure.....

4. Last question. New strut assembly. Doesnt really look like much of a lift... should the top of the strut stick out more? I cranked it down so that the top nut was fully engaged with threads, but no further. How do you know when enough is enough? I had to compress the springs a LOT just to get this far. Do you see any fatal flaws in what I’ve done?

 

[Screwfly]

When I did my upper ball joint on my 06 WK, it was a full replacement arm. I believe the lower is also replacing the lower control arm.
Strut looks good to me.
Hope this helps.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

 

[nwoods]

So the answer to #2 is that yes, the ball joint pushes down and through to come out, in theory. I can’t do it. The ball joint press I have is not enough. I nearly pulled the truck off the jack stands trying to pop that baby out, and it’s not coming. I also don’t seem to have the right kind of wrench to get the forward nut off the LCA bushing mount. I was thinking if I removed the entire control arm, I could put it into a hydraulic press, but I just don’t have the tools to do the job. Status: fail

The answer to number 1 and 3 is to through money at it. Rather than rebuilding the original UCA, I can replace them for about the same cost, with new bushings and ball joint. Those will be ready for pick up tommorow. Status: should be solved

item 4: Thabks for the input!

 

[nwoods]

Almost done! Install is in, including new UCA’s and I did manage to squeeze out the LCA ball joints, but there is still some clunking so I’ve got some disassembly and retorqueing to do.

 

[crossed-up]

Almost done! Install is in, including new UCA’s and I did manage to squeeze out the LCA ball joints, but there is still some clunking so I’ve got some disassembly and retorqueing to do.

If you haven't already done so its worth checking that the clunking isn't caused by movement in the front diff mounts. The tell tale sign that the mounts are getting soft is a clunk when engaging drive or reverse.

 

[nwoods]

That's a good idea to check on. Wonder how hard those are to change out.

 

[crossed-up]

That's a good idea to check on. Wonder how hard those are to change out.

From memory it was a bit of a PITA when I did mine. The main issue was extracting the steel sleeved bushes from the diff casing and I ended up with a combination of a large C clamp type bush extractor and various sleeves, and attacking them with an air saw and chisel! Probably would have been much easier if I have completely removed the diff and done it on the bench, but I managed it in situ by rotating the diff casing on the driveshafts after disconnecting the prop shaft and mounting bolts. There are a few pics buried in this thread post.

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/wh-wk-preparation-for-the-pyrenees.152652/post-2006513

 

[Charles R]

For question 4. You need to run that nut all the way down the threads until it torques to spec. (Tighten until it stops/bottoms out)

That nut not being tight would be a source of clunking.