Jeep Grand Cherokee

[Dibber]

Good day folks,

Figure I would pick the brains of the Expedition Portal group (Experts in Jeep and not) in regards to picking up a Jeep Grand Cherokee for my Son's first "Rig". He has his heart set on a Jeep Grand Cherokee...and we have been discussing the 1998-2007 years.

Once we get it we plan on doing a suspension refresh (maybe a lift), some armor and sorting out internals plus buying him his own Camping gear.

Anyways....I was wondering what years you might look to avoid or go after? What engines to seek out or avoid? What Trims to avoid?

Now I do believe (I am not a car expert by no stretch), that these years were all IFS instead of Solid Axle...but please feel free to educate me on this as well.

Thanks alot Folks.

 

[nwoods]

Well, those years represent two different models, the WJ and the WK (2005 upwards, can’t remember when the WK2 kicks in)

The 4.7L HO (high output) Overland edition of the WJ is pretty awesome. Floating axle front & rear, basically same drive train & suspension as the Wrangler, including the bulletproof 4.0L inline 6 cylinder, and lockers.

for the WK, I would avoid the 2005 if you want the 5.7L HEMI, the 2006 got modern coil packs, but it’s still old enough to avoid getting VVT (variable valve timing). However, the 2006 and up all have MDS, which is cylinder deactivation system that sometimes can be a weakness. It is bypass-able though. The WK can be found with QDII (Quadra-Drive II) that has lockers front and rear, though yes it does have IFS in front. The WJ can easily be lifted and it’s capable of running 35’s with fender work and gearing. The WK is pretty much limited to 33’s, and that is with the typical ARB-OME lift. Aftermarket support for the WK is weak, but the WJ has quite a wide following and vendor support. Asfir makes full skids for the WK, and HK Offroad makes fantastic rock sliders and other goodies. Good luck!

summary:
WJ (up to 2004)
- live axles
- 4.0L I-6 or 4.7L V8
- various 4wd versions including QDII i think
- good aftermarket support
- can fit 35’s with effort

WK (2005 - ???
- IFS + live axle rear
- 3.7L diesel, 4.7L V8, or 5.7L HEMI V8 (or 6.4 L in the SRT8 version
- various 4wd versions including QDII (which is awesome)
- just barely enough after market support
- fits 33’s with some effort

 

[Todd780]

@nwoods pretty mush summed it all up.

I had a '99 WJ Laredo with a 2.5" OME lift and the Select-Trac transfer case so I could run it in 2WD.

Can't recall now what size tires those were. 32 or 33?

This Jeep had the trailer tow pkg so came with 3:73 gears and it seemed to handle the bigger tires fine. Power was... ok. It had the 4.0.

This may have been one of the most fun vehicles I owned. Def would get another:

 

[Todd780]

If you end up looking at WJ's, the higher end models had electronic climate controls. I recall there were issues with the blend doors and it being a costly or time consuming thing to fix. Never encountered it myself as mine didn't have that option. I looked for one with the 4.0 inline 6 cylinder as I read it was near bullet proof. Never had an issue with mine. But, afterwards I read that the 4.7L V8 is also quite reliable.

 

[phsycle]

Well, those years represent two different models, the WJ and the WK (2005 upwards, can’t remember when the WK2 kicks in)

The 4.7L HO (high output) Overland edition of the WJ is pretty awesome. Floating axle front & rear, basically same drive train & suspension as the Wrangler, including the bulletproof 4.0L inline 6 cylinder, and lockers.

for the WK, I would avoid the 2005 if you want the 5.7L HEMI, the 2006 got modern coil packs, but it’s still old enough to avoid getting VVT (variable valve timing). However, the 2006 and up all have MDS, which is cylinder deactivation system that sometimes can be a weakness. It is bypass-able though. The WK can be found with QDII (Quadra-Drive II) that has lockers front and rear, though yes it does have IFS in front. The WJ can easily be lifted and it’s capable of running 35’s with fender work and gearing. The WK is pretty much limited to 33’s, and that is with the typical ARB-OME lift. Aftermarket support for the WK is weak, but the WJ has quite a wide following and vendor support. Asfir makes full skids for the WK, and HK Offroad makes fantastic rock sliders and other goodies. Good luck!

summary:
WJ (up to 2004)
- live axles
- 4.0L I-6 or 4.7L V8
- various 4wd versions including QDII i think
- good aftermarket support
- can fit 35’s with effort

WK (2005 - ???
- IFS + live axle rear
- 3.7L diesel, 4.7L V8, or 5.7L HEMI V8 (or 6.4 L in the SRT8 version
- various 4wd versions including QDII (which is awesome)
- just barely enough after market support
- fits 33’s with some effort

You got most of it right but 98 was the prior model, the ZJ.

I’m more attached to the ZJ, as I like the boxier look. The 4.0 or 5.2 were good engines.

That said, I’d probably go for the newest WK. I like those better than the WJ.

 

[Dibber]

Well folks thanks for the info.

I am going to look at securing a 4.0L WJ do a full suspension refresh (maybe lift) and a bit of armor....Try to make it "Kid" Proof

 

[Todd780]

.Try to make it "Kid" Proof

So, you're going to install a mechanism that prevents it from starting until the cellphone is secured in a non movable docking station and limit the volume the stereo can go up to? lol

It's a 4.0 so speed won't be a factor, haha

 

[jameswj4]

I would definitely go with a WJ (99-04) the solid front axles is a plus. and i really like the 4.0l. ive owned about 6 Wjs in my life only one was the 4.7l it had the power which was nice and better transmission, but overheating was always a worry for me as its lifespan was ticking once it got hot plus the select trac is the transfer case you want (np242, np242hd) and its almost a unicorn with the 4.7 only other downside is the dana35 rear axle with the 4.0 but ive never had an issue with any of mine even on 32s. but overall they drive and ride good and are comfy ( im 6'5" and fit good). and every possible issue is well documented. if i didn't have my XJ, id get another. a wj was actually my 1st vehicle and it got me into Jeeps. good luck and hope your son enjoys.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[geoffff]

For the past 22 years I've had a 2000 WJ with the 4.7L (plenty of power) and the Quadradrive. Quadradrive has a low range, and three mechanical automatic-locking differentials. Worked surprisingly well. I pulled myself out of a couple hairy situations with all four wheels spinning and only one of the fronts on something solid. I eventually removed the rear seat so I could sleep in the back. Camped a bunch in Baja. I took it everywhere -- before I upgraded to my van. Stock, except for slightly oversized tires. Factory skid plates.

 

[Grassland]

Some of the WJ had the Dana 44a rear differential. I can't remember what combo got that, if it was all 4.7 engine WJ or something more specific. I had 3.73 ratio, 4.7 Laredo with the quadra trac 2 case.

What did me in was it's unibody and an aging platform. 99-04 was a long time ago. Rust and degradation is your enemy on something that old. Seized bolts and fasteners, soft or rusted away sheet metal or braces for parts. Rotten hoses, brittle wiring, loose connections.


Even a WK 05-10 that's 13-18 years ago.

Most common reasonably cheap set up I looked into for WK was 2" coil lift and 32s.
For the WJ if parts are still available like they were 10 years ago, 3" coil lift with track bar and some odds and ends, touch of trimming fender liners or bumper valence and you could run 32s depending on tires and wheels offset. I had rub with 245/75R16 duratracs on a 2.5" coil lift. That size spare fit in factory spare well.

 

[phsycle]

I had a 5.9 ZJ back about 20 years ago. I really miss that Jeep. If I were to restore a vehicle, that’s the one.
I’d do it exactly like the Jeep folks did:

 

[1stDeuce]

Are you really on PEI? If so, I assume that's a sort of outlier of the rust belt, where older vehicles seemingly disintegrate out from under you as they age...

I'm from Michigan, and at this point it would be near impossible to find a ZJ or even a WJ that was in decent condition back home... (Ie not rotted right out...)

Out here in Colorado, it's not so hard, and you can come up with 30 year old vehicles that are very solid all over the place.

ZJ's are a bit smaller than WJ's, which have always looked over-inflated to me... I too would recommend a 4.0L powered rig as the best bang for the buck. '99+ 4.0L's can be a bit "fussy" when first cold started, but they smooth right out after a few seconds. Chrysler transmissions of the era were not terribly awesome, but treated well can last.

Quadra Drive in WJ's got you cool vari-lock differentials that do work if you don't mind some wheel spin. Unfortunately, QD was only available with the 4.7L. With Quadra Drive, spinning just one tire can happen, and you have to add throttle (wheel slip actually) to get the transfer case and axles to begin locking up and transferring torque around. It works particularly well for mud and snow, but can be used in the rocks if you're not worried about tire wear. I prefer the NV242 transfer case, which has a 2wd and 4wd Full and Part Time modes, as well as low range. It is harder to find with the 4.0L than with V8's, but they're out there. I have one in my TJ, and use the Full Time mode all winter. No shifting in and out of 4wd all the time, just go.

Best case would be a nice condition GC with the 4.0L, a NV242 and 3.73 gears. If you find a nice one with the first two options but 3.55 gears, then check local junkyards for a set of Quadra Drive axles, which were all 3.73, and swap them out for a really solid rig!

Lifting an inch or two makes room for slightly bigger tires, and then 3.73 gears would be nice. On WJ's, check the ball joint at the top of the Y-link on the rear axle, as it can wear and cause spooky handling. On ZJ's, the front track bar at frame has a ball joint that can wear and result in really loose steering feel.

Hope you find something that works for you and your son!! Getting out there is #1 priority, even if it means doing so in a Geo tracker!!

 

[Todd780]

Best case would be a nice condition GC with the 4.0L, a NV242 and 3.73 gears.

That's why I jumped on the one that I had. Plus it was 8 years old and only had 53,000 miles on it, stock and clean as a whistle.

Should've never sold it. Was paid for, modded the way I wanted and still had barely over 65,000 miles on it when I sold it.

 

[jkam]

My buddy has a 2014 GC with the eco diesel engine.
It's been pretty reliable, has had a few more complicated recalls, but over all is nice.
Around town it gets about 23 mpg, on long rural road trips we have had it up to 35 mpg.
That gives it a range of over 700 miles.
Has plenty of power and decent towing capacity.
He pulls it behind a big class A diesel pusher so it only has about 70,000 miles on it.

 

[1stDeuce]

Fly and buy?

CO Springs FB Marketplace ad...
Couple more in the Denver area, and Albuquerque. do your own search.

Interestingly enough, on all of the 4.0L Laredo GC's on FB MP where I could see the T-case shifter, it was a 242... Perhaps the 242 was standard on the '99-2004 GC's with 4.0L?? That would make the search easier, since you'd only have to find a nice 4.0L and that would get you the 242. If you got one with 3.55 axles, toss in a pair of Quadra Drive axles from the junkyard and you've got 3.73's.

jkam, my buddy has a 2014 GC with the eco diesel too. It was a great car until the engine spun a main bearing at about 120k for seemingly no reason. A new short or long block is fairly cost prohibitive, so it sits... A bit of internet searching shows that it happens far more often than it should for such a low volume of units sold in the states, and doesn't seem to have a known cause yet. Mileage when a main bearing spins is all over the place, but there is no mileage where you're proven "safe". Eeek.