jefe's hardside camper hauler
- Thread starter Mundo4x4Casa
- Start date
Mundo4x4Casa
West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
yfarm,
We have 18's
Yesterday I picked up the F-350 with the front tie downs installed. Everything is in readiness.
Today, I patched up the roof rips with butyl tape on the 2020 N* Laredo SC.
The rubber roof edge got ripped up by passing Pinion branches on an ill fated trip through the Inyo's with my brother John. See the 'before' below.
Reinstalled the electric Happijacs and ran them to the ground on the Dodge and removed the tie downs.
Added layers of Reflectix to the escape hatch cover and the pass through window.
We have 18's
Yesterday I picked up the F-350 with the front tie downs installed. Everything is in readiness.
Today, I patched up the roof rips with butyl tape on the 2020 N* Laredo SC.
The rubber roof edge got ripped up by passing Pinion branches on an ill fated trip through the Inyo's with my brother John. See the 'before' below.
Reinstalled the electric Happijacs and ran them to the ground on the Dodge and removed the tie downs.
Added layers of Reflectix to the escape hatch cover and the pass through window.
Attachments
Mundo4x4Casa
West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
All the parts for moving the Northstar Laredo SC from the built Dodge Cummins to the new F-350 7.3 gas have arrived and been installed.
There were a lot of glitches, which is normal, having to do with how high the riser must be to miss the Ford cab; any setback from the bulkhead so as not to crush the back of the tail lights; the fit of the Torklift hardware for a 7 foot wide camper; and myriad little issues that you must 'worry through' to use my brother John's lingo.
Life is full of 'sub assemblies', and this is one of them. Supersprings Sway-stops. I'm trying them out to see if they do the trick.
I installed the Torklift tie downs (F2022, and F3008) for a short bed, super cab, F-350 truck.
A 4 inch block of blue foam (25 pounds per sq. inch non-compressibility) cut to fit covered the area under the camper, with a leftover block of the blue foam glued on the foam on the bed tight up against the bulkhead.
I first set the Torklift hardware up according to instructions and took a few pix.
Then the minor adjustments began.
To reduce the exposure to passing rocks and other obstacles, and to bring in tighter to the truck, the TL tie down outriggers and subsequently the turnbuckles (S9050A), I drilled a third set of holes on the outriggers leaving enough 'wiggle room' for any minor shifting.
The clearance number was 1-1/2 inches at both front and rear.
I then shot anti-rust paint down the outriggers to slow the corrosion especially around the new holes.
This is only the beginning, as I'll be tweaking the application in the months to come. Maybe only a 2 inch riser. Maybe only a 2 inch bulkhead bumper. It all depends on how much flex is in the 'new' truck frame.
After driving around town a bit, i feel the truck has a lot better ride character than the old Dodge. But there is a little bit of sway. I'm hoping 40 gallons of water and a loaded camper will make the upper overloads work to keep the sway at a minimum. I'm still liking the ride....and it's quiet.....and automatic.
Here are a few pix taken after the few 'fixes': fuel door before and after.
This truck will workout as desired once the 35's are on and the front TrueTrac is installed.
jefe
There were a lot of glitches, which is normal, having to do with how high the riser must be to miss the Ford cab; any setback from the bulkhead so as not to crush the back of the tail lights; the fit of the Torklift hardware for a 7 foot wide camper; and myriad little issues that you must 'worry through' to use my brother John's lingo.
Life is full of 'sub assemblies', and this is one of them. Supersprings Sway-stops. I'm trying them out to see if they do the trick.
I installed the Torklift tie downs (F2022, and F3008) for a short bed, super cab, F-350 truck.
A 4 inch block of blue foam (25 pounds per sq. inch non-compressibility) cut to fit covered the area under the camper, with a leftover block of the blue foam glued on the foam on the bed tight up against the bulkhead.
I first set the Torklift hardware up according to instructions and took a few pix.
Then the minor adjustments began.
To reduce the exposure to passing rocks and other obstacles, and to bring in tighter to the truck, the TL tie down outriggers and subsequently the turnbuckles (S9050A), I drilled a third set of holes on the outriggers leaving enough 'wiggle room' for any minor shifting.
The clearance number was 1-1/2 inches at both front and rear.
I then shot anti-rust paint down the outriggers to slow the corrosion especially around the new holes.
This is only the beginning, as I'll be tweaking the application in the months to come. Maybe only a 2 inch riser. Maybe only a 2 inch bulkhead bumper. It all depends on how much flex is in the 'new' truck frame.
After driving around town a bit, i feel the truck has a lot better ride character than the old Dodge. But there is a little bit of sway. I'm hoping 40 gallons of water and a loaded camper will make the upper overloads work to keep the sway at a minimum. I'm still liking the ride....and it's quiet.....and automatic.
Here are a few pix taken after the few 'fixes': fuel door before and after.
This truck will workout as desired once the 35's are on and the front TrueTrac is installed.
jefe
Attachments
Last edited:
Regcabguy
Oil eater.
There's overload spacers out there that can fill the gap between spring and bumpstops. They're removable when the camper's off. Here's for Dodge. https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/inde...9947Fxp1gciSXtwN12yIiBSULVF3I7JxoCE18QAvD_BwE
locrwln
Expedition Leader
Mundo4x4Casa
West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
RIPPERJ, yes it's on a 4 inch block of blue rigid foam insulation with a 25 pound per sq. in. load rating. This will be reduced to 2 inches. A side benefit of the foam is that it insulates the floor with an R-19 value.
Our N* comes with something called "Sub Zero" insulation, which beyond being a sales ploy has aluminum foil on both sides of the foam blocks of the walls and ceiling adding a lot more perceived R-value.
We've had the camper down to 14f and been amazed at how nice it stays inside.
I just filled the escape hatch ( 2 layers) and pass through window with precision cut Reflectix.
Thanks, JACK. There is still more to do to dial it in. You of all people on here know something about that.
REGCAB, I used the Torklift Stable Loads on my '01 Dodge's upper overloads. They were 4 inches tall and were touching the overload even without a load. This made for a tough MT ride. With the new F-350 I wanted the stock ride when MT so am trying the 3.25 inch tall Sway Stops. So far they are not tall enough or deflected enough to bring that tapered overload spring into big time into play. That's why I'm waiting to see if 800 pound of more traveling weight will settle the overload down to less sway. See pic below for current loaded contact. Not much deflection yet.
Our N* comes with something called "Sub Zero" insulation, which beyond being a sales ploy has aluminum foil on both sides of the foam blocks of the walls and ceiling adding a lot more perceived R-value.
We've had the camper down to 14f and been amazed at how nice it stays inside.
I just filled the escape hatch ( 2 layers) and pass through window with precision cut Reflectix.
Thanks, JACK. There is still more to do to dial it in. You of all people on here know something about that.
REGCAB, I used the Torklift Stable Loads on my '01 Dodge's upper overloads. They were 4 inches tall and were touching the overload even without a load. This made for a tough MT ride. With the new F-350 I wanted the stock ride when MT so am trying the 3.25 inch tall Sway Stops. So far they are not tall enough or deflected enough to bring that tapered overload spring into big time into play. That's why I'm waiting to see if 800 pound of more traveling weight will settle the overload down to less sway. See pic below for current loaded contact. Not much deflection yet.
montypower
Adventure Time!
This was not an issue on our truck 17" Methods. But it is close clearance
montypower
Adventure Time!
Those stock springs are a rough ride!! Have Deaver Suspension build you a custom leaf pack. Then you'll have the load support and compliant ride plus flex. My replacement leaf pack had 10 leaf springs. Truck drops about 2" with camper load. So perfect factory rack when empty. Plus, ditch the factory lift blocks which is a nice bonus.
greengreer
Adventurer
Any more thoughts on the SwayStops?
We're just barely touching the overload with the camper on and loaded up. I certainly don't want to have the overloads touching when empty or with light loads. Is that center section removeable?
We're just barely touching the overload with the camper on and loaded up. I certainly don't want to have the overloads touching when empty or with light loads. Is that center section removeable?
Mundo4x4Casa
West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
greer,
I'm now seeing one of the super sway stops deform and twist out of position.
We'll give it some more time, but I think I'll be falling back to the ubiquitous Torklift Stable Loads. They are a little taller which won't make a lot of difference with the MT ride quality as we plan to keep the camper on full time.
The state of the suspension is now:
front: stock non-snow plow/camper package springs with H.D. "Off-road" shocks that came with the FX4 package.
rear: sway stops and new Rancho 9K's turned up to 9.
These made a difference even without the anti-sway bar.
The so-called "Off-road" rear shocks were shockingly compliant with no push back when I removed them and gave them a shove with one hand.
in a word: worthless. So these brand new shocks are in the metal recycling pile at our place along with our now defunct, 25 year old Vermont Castings BBQ.
I'm now seeing one of the super sway stops deform and twist out of position.
We'll give it some more time, but I think I'll be falling back to the ubiquitous Torklift Stable Loads. They are a little taller which won't make a lot of difference with the MT ride quality as we plan to keep the camper on full time.
The state of the suspension is now:
front: stock non-snow plow/camper package springs with H.D. "Off-road" shocks that came with the FX4 package.
rear: sway stops and new Rancho 9K's turned up to 9.
These made a difference even without the anti-sway bar.
The so-called "Off-road" rear shocks were shockingly compliant with no push back when I removed them and gave them a shove with one hand.
in a word: worthless. So these brand new shocks are in the metal recycling pile at our place along with our now defunct, 25 year old Vermont Castings BBQ.
knutsCO
New member
Jefe-
I have a similar TC combination (2017 F350 PSD w/ 2020 Laredo SC) and submit the following for your consideration. I have attempted to address two issues at once. Trail sway (camper getting tossed side to side from rocks/holes on rougher roads) and departure clearance for a hitch receiver mounted bike rack. I have seen rubber doors stops or felling wedges used as a much cheaper alternative to the lower stableload devices. Intrigued, I decide to give it a go with some hard rubber isolation pads sourced from Amazon for $20. MT bed suspension harshness was not a concern for me since I leave the camper on full time, but I was concerned about excessive spring rate on rough roads with the very thick and short lower leaf engaged all the time.
I can't offer a long term assessment, as I have only had these on since early Nov. So far so good though. Paved road performance is significantly better, although I do feel the FOX 2.0 IFP shocks I have on the back could use more rebound damping to take full advantage of the setup. Trail performance has been good so far as well. Not nearly as harsh as I expected. Eventually I would like to swap in some full progressive multi leaf springs as Peter (and you with your Dodge) did, but in the meantime, this will give me a chance to evaluate a much cheaper alternative.
So far the pucks have stayed put and have not shifted. On the two weekend trips since installing the rubber pucks, I was fairly lightly loaded. I would guess less than 11,000 lbs (curb weight is about 7900 w/ full fuel). I measured a rear ride height increase of 2" with the pucks and camper installed. This is still about an inch lower than the stock MT bed ride height, so about 2" rake with the pucks in. This should be plenty of additional departure clearance so that I will not drag the bike rack where I have done so previously.
Ken
I have a similar TC combination (2017 F350 PSD w/ 2020 Laredo SC) and submit the following for your consideration. I have attempted to address two issues at once. Trail sway (camper getting tossed side to side from rocks/holes on rougher roads) and departure clearance for a hitch receiver mounted bike rack. I have seen rubber doors stops or felling wedges used as a much cheaper alternative to the lower stableload devices. Intrigued, I decide to give it a go with some hard rubber isolation pads sourced from Amazon for $20. MT bed suspension harshness was not a concern for me since I leave the camper on full time, but I was concerned about excessive spring rate on rough roads with the very thick and short lower leaf engaged all the time.
I can't offer a long term assessment, as I have only had these on since early Nov. So far so good though. Paved road performance is significantly better, although I do feel the FOX 2.0 IFP shocks I have on the back could use more rebound damping to take full advantage of the setup. Trail performance has been good so far as well. Not nearly as harsh as I expected. Eventually I would like to swap in some full progressive multi leaf springs as Peter (and you with your Dodge) did, but in the meantime, this will give me a chance to evaluate a much cheaper alternative.
So far the pucks have stayed put and have not shifted. On the two weekend trips since installing the rubber pucks, I was fairly lightly loaded. I would guess less than 11,000 lbs (curb weight is about 7900 w/ full fuel). I measured a rear ride height increase of 2" with the pucks and camper installed. This is still about an inch lower than the stock MT bed ride height, so about 2" rake with the pucks in. This should be plenty of additional departure clearance so that I will not drag the bike rack where I have done so previously.
Ken
