JK Tire questions
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ZMagic97
Explorer
I ran 35's on my JK Rubi and was very happy with it. However, everyone I worked with that asked me about lift kits and tires for the JK got the recommendation of 33s from me.
While 35s were nice and offered a good amount of clearance, I felt that the MPG loss, power loss, and "jump" to get in the Jeep wasn't worth the extra height. I was on a 3" Teraflex lift with 35s from the prior owner. While it drove great and has zero alignment issues and no death wobble, I would have rather had a 2" with 33s. I feel that would have made loading cargo and people an easier task, made the pavement traveling much more enjoyable, and kept the Jeep more well rounded.
I even say this with my JK having been my off road vehicle only, not a daily driver.
I hope this helps.
While 35s were nice and offered a good amount of clearance, I felt that the MPG loss, power loss, and "jump" to get in the Jeep wasn't worth the extra height. I was on a 3" Teraflex lift with 35s from the prior owner. While it drove great and has zero alignment issues and no death wobble, I would have rather had a 2" with 33s. I feel that would have made loading cargo and people an easier task, made the pavement traveling much more enjoyable, and kept the Jeep more well rounded.
I even say this with my JK having been my off road vehicle only, not a daily driver.
I hope this helps.
Thank you so much for your feedback. I've never lifted a truck/Jeep so I'm trying to weed out the "what looks cool" with what is needed to be functional as an overland vehicle. My overland desires are things like the Trans American Trail, Big Bend, and a trip to Alaska.
ZMagic, I was considering the MetalCloak 3.5 Gamechanger 6 pack lift. Sounds like you'd suggest sticking to 2.0-2.5 inch lift? If you have any more insights, I'd love to hear. BTW, I'm a NAU Alumni
ZMagic, I was considering the MetalCloak 3.5 Gamechanger 6 pack lift. Sounds like you'd suggest sticking to 2.0-2.5 inch lift? If you have any more insights, I'd love to hear. BTW, I'm a NAU Alumni
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This is definitely the plan. i don't want to spend the money if it's not needed.
I haven't lifted one yet. I'm in the planning and research stage. I am drawn to the 2.5" Dual Sport from AEV, and if I were to do that would probably get Cooper AT3 in the 34" variety which probably end up closer to 33 when mounted.
One of the factors pushing me that direction is the performance of the stock suspension when the vehicle is loaded and/or towing. The part about the Cooper AT3 is based on my experience with the tire and their price compared to my second place option of T/A KO2s.
One of the factors pushing me that direction is the performance of the stock suspension when the vehicle is loaded and/or towing. The part about the Cooper AT3 is based on my experience with the tire and their price compared to my second place option of T/A KO2s.
ZMagic97
Explorer
Thank you so much for your feedback. I've never lifted a truck/Jeep so I'm trying to weed out the "what looks cool" with what is needed to be functional as an overland vehicle. My overland desires are things like the Trans American Trail, Big Bend, and a trip to Alaska.
ZMagic, I was considering the MetalCloak 3.5 Gamechanger 6 pack lift. Sounds like you'd suggest sticking to 2.0-2.5 inch lift? If you have any more insights, I'd love to hear. BTW, I'm a NAU Alumni
Right on for being an NAU Alumni!
As for lifts: I'm certainly no expert, so I'll make sure to put that out there. As for the MetalCloak products, I have no experience with them one way or another, so I cannot comment there.
I really do feel like the 2 - 2.5" lift is a great way to go in my opinion. Of course, this all depends on what type of driving you'll be doing. Your needs/desires are obviously a big part.
As kmlacroix mentioned, try the stock capabilities first. The Rubicon package is impressive and will do a lot more than most people seem to give it credit for.
I mentioned my tire size and life recommendation, as for brands there are so many of both out there. Again, my JK had a Teraflax kit and I was not only impressed with the build quality, but also the customer service. At Overland Expo 13 (maybe 14) I met Dennis from Teraflex and talked with him a bit. I told him about my setup and he mentioned a new bracket was made as an upgrade: he asked me to shoot him an email when I got home so he could send the improved part out free of charge even though I wasn't having issues.
On my GMC Sierra I have a Rough Country lift and must say I'm pretty impressed with the quality for the price. I just looked up kits on their website and see a 2.5" lift w/o shocks is ~$250. I just took my GMC on a pretty rough trail last week for about 5 hours with good results: no broken parts, comfortable ride, and no articulation issues. Both vehicles I used for some tougher trails, but mostly did forest roads, back roads, and more mellow off road drives with the occasion obstacle.
Tires: Both my JK and my current GMC had and have Toyo Open Country M/Ts. I will not buy them again for the GMC. Reason being: wear and road noise. The JK wasn't as bad with Toyos, but the GMC with the sister tire (Nitto M/T) is just so loud. I once took the JK to Colorado and back and between the tall lift blowing me in the wind and the sound of the tires, I don't think I drove it again for 2 weeks once I got home.
My Silverado has Hankook Dynapro ATMs and I love them. I was stuck between those and the BFGoodrich All Terrain KO2s: price and trying something new got me the Hankooks. I will also be putting them on the GMC too as I don;t like my current rims and the noise is driving me insane.
All in all: I recommend these things based on if you're wanted to take the Jeep camping, on off-road trails, on a road trip for a weekend, to an event in town and park in a parking garage, to work, to the grocery store...etc. I found big tires and a big lift meant feeling the wind as I drove, not fitting in parking garages or just barely doing so, MPG loss, annoyances in hopping into it...etc. If I had to sell my little Silverado and the big GMC and start over again with a JKU for the family, a Rubicon with a ~2" lift and 33" A/Ts would be my way to go.
I hope all my ranting helps in some way. :smiley_drive:
I've got 10k miles on my DD 15 JKUR. Having driven an LJ for several years, the JK is an outstanding overall package. Very comfortable and capable.
I decided to keep mods to a minimum and very targeted on space efficiency. Went with the AEV 2.5" lift, stock tires, frontrunner interior shelf, frontrunner cargo slide, AEV tire carrier and interior wiring for a fridge.
In another 10k miles, I am going with 33" tires. This package will easily cover all of my needs while maintaining good DD characteristics.
R
I decided to keep mods to a minimum and very targeted on space efficiency. Went with the AEV 2.5" lift, stock tires, frontrunner interior shelf, frontrunner cargo slide, AEV tire carrier and interior wiring for a fridge.
In another 10k miles, I am going with 33" tires. This package will easily cover all of my needs while maintaining good DD characteristics.
R
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ZMagic, I was considering the MetalCloak 3.5 Gamechanger 6 pack lift. Sounds like you'd suggest sticking to 2.0-2.5 inch lift? If you have any more insights, I'd love to hear. BTW, I'm a NAU Alumni
I have the MC 3.5" lift and absolutely love it. The ride is fantastic! It's been on for 2.5 years now and have yet to have an issue with any aspect of it. That said, the only reason I went that high is that I like the look of a lifted jeep. I had a 2.5" BB on my 07 JKU and that was mostly enough for what I did. Still ran into some break over issues, but better lines likely would have resolved some of those.
As for tires, I had 33s on both my JKs, and while I'm running 35s (a deal too good to pass on), for actual wheeling, there's no where I went with my 35s that I couldn't go with my 33s. And the 33s had better highway mileage. My next set (unless I find another too good to pass on deal), I'll likely be getting some Toyo's which measure out to 34". Figure that will be a nice compromise vs true 33s and true 35s. Personally I'd keep it stock and make sure that what you're upgrading is things that you actually need/want as your end goal. I waited almost 2 years before I lifted my JK as I knew I wanted a MC lift and I was waiting until I had the funds. So figure out what you want and just do it once - especially if you're paying a shop to do any of the work.
GetOutThere
Adventurer
I run an AEV 2.5" and 35" Duratracs. The AEV lift is pretty damn awesome, and the Duratracs are great so far, but they haven't hit serious mud yet.
The thing to remember is that it's always a trade off. With the 35 on the back, the rear window is pretty useless. It's much tougher to judge where your rear end is when parking in the city (my Jeep is my DD in a large city, and I live downtown), and don't expect to fit in every parking garage. I fit in most, but not all. With a roof rack, I wouldn't fit in many. The MPG hit is heavy. The wider tires kick crap all over the side of your Jeep even more than usual (which is a lot).
If I was doing it all over again, I'd probably do the same damn thing though.
But 33"s on a levelling kit with uprated springs and shocks would also be a consideration, and a hell of a lot cheaper.
The thing to remember is that it's always a trade off. With the 35 on the back, the rear window is pretty useless. It's much tougher to judge where your rear end is when parking in the city (my Jeep is my DD in a large city, and I live downtown), and don't expect to fit in every parking garage. I fit in most, but not all. With a roof rack, I wouldn't fit in many. The MPG hit is heavy. The wider tires kick crap all over the side of your Jeep even more than usual (which is a lot).
If I was doing it all over again, I'd probably do the same damn thing though.
But 33"s on a levelling kit with uprated springs and shocks would also be a consideration, and a hell of a lot cheaper.
Mayhem-6
Observer
FWIW, you gain practically nothing (on a Rubi) going to 33's from the stock KMs. I've run stock lift/stock tires, stock lift/33s, 2.5" TF Coils/33s, 2.5" TF Coils/35s, and 4" TF Short-Arm/35s on my 08 JKUR. In hindsight, my favorite setup was 2.5" TF and 35s. With flats fenders, you get that much more articulation without rubbing the bottom of the flares also.
I think you'll be disappointed moving from the stock Rubicon KMs to a 33" tire.
I think you'll be disappointed moving from the stock Rubicon KMs to a 33" tire.
andoor
Observer
What transmission are you looking at getting? I have a manual trans with a 2.5 Metalcloak and 35s. My MPG didn't really change much going to 35s, it was 19-17 mpg stock and now is around 18-16 mpg. The ability to choose your own engine speed makes all the difference with mpg. Drive-ability with the 35s didn't change much either. I do have to down shift a little more to stay in the power band, but it is really only at highway speeds going up hill.
tarditi
Explorer
Keep the COG low, keep the tires smaller or pay the price in MPG (I get 17mpg in my "stock" (no lift, stock wheels/tires) JKUR).
33s are fine - look to a high quality lift kit - something like the AEV dual sport lift (although you can get by with just a "leveling kit" to fit 33s)
33s are fine - look to a high quality lift kit - something like the AEV dual sport lift (although you can get by with just a "leveling kit" to fit 33s)
Desert Rat 1
Adventurer
I've own a jeep for a lot of years now and have used several different lift kits as my jeep progressively grown to the point that now I build my own suspensions on my project jeeps. Now that I own a 2015 JKUR, I did a lot of research about the different lift kits out there and based on my own experience and that of fellow off-roaders, went with a Rubicon Express 2.5", which actually have Bilstein 5100 shocks, just painted as RE's. Its a DD and mostly I've done easy-moderate back roads/ trails, I've done also some moderate rock crawling too and I'm very happy with it and at a great price.
On tires, I still have the stock 32" BFG muds, but when they wear off I'll probably go with A/T 33's. Unlike it was mention here before, I do believe going for the AT 33's, and specially with "wider" tires, rims as well; will improve the driving and handling both on road as off-road. So, in conclusion, for the intended use, and IMHO, I believe that 2.5" lift and a set of quality 33" A/T tires is all you need.
On tires, I still have the stock 32" BFG muds, but when they wear off I'll probably go with A/T 33's. Unlike it was mention here before, I do believe going for the AT 33's, and specially with "wider" tires, rims as well; will improve the driving and handling both on road as off-road. So, in conclusion, for the intended use, and IMHO, I believe that 2.5" lift and a set of quality 33" A/T tires is all you need.
Comanche Scott
Expedition Leader
My thoughts from "been there - done that"
Big difference between a JK and a JKU, and it all has to do with "Break-over angle.
I didn't make it off the "bunny slopes" before bending the fuel tank skid plate, and the transmission cross member. This on a Rubicon JKU with 19/60 springs, which is as tall as it gets w/o a lift.
Unless someone plans to just run some fire roads, desert trails and beaches, my recommendation is tires and lift before picking it up from the dealer.
2 Door JK, not such an issue as it has a shorter wheel base.
The JKU does really well on 2.5" - 3.5" lift and 35" tires with 4.10 gears (which means buying a Rubicon). But, fuel mileage does suffer. figure a reduction of somewhere between 15% and 20%.
If you don't plan to lift your JKU before you go off road the first time, I'd strongly recommend a skid plate like this one:
http://www.extremeterrain.com/more-oil-transmission-skid-jk-jkopsp.html
This will help protect the stock transmission cross member, and if you get an automatic, will also protect the cooler line that runs under the transmission.
Some pictures to demonstrate my thoughts:
Pic 1). Fuel tank skid plate damage from coming down some medium height ledges that even guys on 3.5" lifts with 35" tires were scraping intermittently
Pic 2). Transmission cross member damage from same trail
Pic 3). Transmission cooler line just waiting to be damaged without armor
Pic 4). Additional 1.5" height of just changing from stock 255/70R 17 KM tires to 315/70R 17 S/T Maxx (tank skid would have been scraping on this simple hump without the 35" tires). This was before installing the 3" lift.
Big difference between a JK and a JKU, and it all has to do with "Break-over angle.
I didn't make it off the "bunny slopes" before bending the fuel tank skid plate, and the transmission cross member. This on a Rubicon JKU with 19/60 springs, which is as tall as it gets w/o a lift.
Unless someone plans to just run some fire roads, desert trails and beaches, my recommendation is tires and lift before picking it up from the dealer.
2 Door JK, not such an issue as it has a shorter wheel base.
The JKU does really well on 2.5" - 3.5" lift and 35" tires with 4.10 gears (which means buying a Rubicon). But, fuel mileage does suffer. figure a reduction of somewhere between 15% and 20%.
If you don't plan to lift your JKU before you go off road the first time, I'd strongly recommend a skid plate like this one:
http://www.extremeterrain.com/more-oil-transmission-skid-jk-jkopsp.html
This will help protect the stock transmission cross member, and if you get an automatic, will also protect the cooler line that runs under the transmission.
Some pictures to demonstrate my thoughts:
Pic 1). Fuel tank skid plate damage from coming down some medium height ledges that even guys on 3.5" lifts with 35" tires were scraping intermittently
Pic 2). Transmission cross member damage from same trail
Pic 3). Transmission cooler line just waiting to be damaged without armor
Pic 4). Additional 1.5" height of just changing from stock 255/70R 17 KM tires to 315/70R 17 S/T Maxx (tank skid would have been scraping on this simple hump without the 35" tires). This was before installing the 3" lift.
