e60ral
2016 4Runner Trail w/KDSS
Is there a reason you wired the fridge off the solar charge controller instead of off the battery?
Just need a little boost for the fridge...
- Thread starter Dipodomys
- Start date
Is there a reason you wired the fridge off the solar charge controller instead of off the battery?
Bear in NM
Adventurer
I agree with the above folks, you do not need a trickle charge, you need as many amps as you can get via the panel. I built a portable system last summer to run my Arb 63 using two 35ah batteries. Sounds like I have just a small amount more battery storage than you. I went with a 135 watt panel, and had no issues with my setup. But, I am at high altitude, and not hot desert sun and heat. I did not have my system running at length during a very cloudy/rainy period, but I suspect it would have been borderline at best.
As Raya pointed out, as you cannot increase your battery capacity, you will need to focus on keeping the fridge well insulated. I have the transit bag for mine, and made an additional cover out of the foil lined thin bubble wrap. No fancy sewing for the foil wrap, just scissors and staples to form a shape. I also would add a blanket or tarp at times. I did test the additional wraps, and they did reduce run time.
Along with my suggestion for as much panel as you can get, certainly over 100 watts if possible, you will probably have to pay attention to the panel getting full light. I do not chase sun to the extent of moving my panel a lot, to keep the strike angle perpendicular, but do pay attention to the sun track and try to avoid tree shade or other things that may happen during the day, while away from my rig.
From my newby perspective, big battery storage lets one get away with not minding the little details on the input side, as well as use by items on the load side. You and I really need to mind the little things with our setups.
Craig
As Raya pointed out, as you cannot increase your battery capacity, you will need to focus on keeping the fridge well insulated. I have the transit bag for mine, and made an additional cover out of the foil lined thin bubble wrap. No fancy sewing for the foil wrap, just scissors and staples to form a shape. I also would add a blanket or tarp at times. I did test the additional wraps, and they did reduce run time.
Along with my suggestion for as much panel as you can get, certainly over 100 watts if possible, you will probably have to pay attention to the panel getting full light. I do not chase sun to the extent of moving my panel a lot, to keep the strike angle perpendicular, but do pay attention to the sun track and try to avoid tree shade or other things that may happen during the day, while away from my rig.
From my newby perspective, big battery storage lets one get away with not minding the little details on the input side, as well as use by items on the load side. You and I really need to mind the little things with our setups.
Craig
Dipodomys
Observer
"Trickle charge" probably wasn't the best description. I'm just looking for enough to balance the charge and discharge a bit, or at least to slow the net rate of discharge. A panel with wattage like you describe should do the trick for what I'm after. My guess is that there will be some experimentation involved, which seems to be true for many vehicle modifications.
Dipodomys
Observer
My thinking is that a controller designed to work in someone's shed might not hold up well in an engine compartment. Heat extremes, water, mud, etc. wouldn't be a factor in a stationary application, but they would be in a vehicle. Not to mention vibration and banging around. It seems like someone in our gadget-rich world would have designed and marketed a controller specifically for these types of applications. Maybe someone has, but I haven't seen it. Anyway, your advice is good, and maybe I'm just being paranoid. I'll read the reviews while I'm shopping, and see how things have held up for people.
SnoViking
Adventurer
Yup. A few actually.....
A: My solar charge controller has a built in accessory function with low voltage cut-off.
B: It is mounted about a foot from where my fridge lives.
C: The charge controller is safe, protected, and easily viewed in the cargo area.
D: It has a built in voltmeter/ampmeter for easy viewing.
E: With this setup I can run the solar/fridge off my main chassis battery, or put an "inline" secondary accessory battery into the system without having to rewire anything.
I've had it about a year now. No issues at all. I use velco to keep it in place in the rear cargo area. I'm not sure how long a $20 controller will last. But I did get the 4 year warranty on the panel.
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Questor
Huge member
I've got an Engel 40L fridge that draws power off an isolated secondary aux battery via a three port 12v cigarette port. It draw less than 1A an hour.
When stopped for a couple of days, I have two 10 watt 12v Eco-worthy panels that I lay on the roof, or side of the truck and plug then into the other two 12v cigarette ports.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017K6PH1S
On a sunny day, these two small panels seem to keep up with the draw of the fridge.
The panels are cheap and light and have a built in charge controller and a diode to stop the battery from discharging.
So two 10 watt 12v panels plugged into the auxiliary 12v three port cigarette that the Engel fridge plugs into, which is also connected to the 12v auxiliary battery.
Seems to work for me.
Q~
When stopped for a couple of days, I have two 10 watt 12v Eco-worthy panels that I lay on the roof, or side of the truck and plug then into the other two 12v cigarette ports.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017K6PH1S
On a sunny day, these two small panels seem to keep up with the draw of the fridge.
The panels are cheap and light and have a built in charge controller and a diode to stop the battery from discharging.
So two 10 watt 12v panels plugged into the auxiliary 12v three port cigarette that the Engel fridge plugs into, which is also connected to the 12v auxiliary battery.
Seems to work for me.
Q~