Just picked up a 2004 Xterra XE 4x4 5spd.

[DanF.]

Day I bought it:

Few days later after getting some beautiful NH plates on it, and taking it through the carwash:

I've never owned or driven a Gen1 Xterra prior to checking this out, and subsequently buying it. I have a list of questions about the truck...

1. What would be a good basic list of parts for a tune-up? I haven't owned a vehicle with a distributor in a decade, so I'm a bit foggy.

2. Is there a general consensus on better engine oil and filter brands?

3. My passenger window decided not to go up the other morning, and the driver's switch was the only one that would raise it. Is it time for a new window regulator, or is there an issue in the switch in the passenger door? Are the switches usually swapped out with new units, or can I take it apart and clean the contacts? (like my old Saabs)

4. Every vehicle I've previously owned either had a factory turbo engine (a bunch of Saabs) or a high-strung N/A engine (V8 and I6 BMWs) that required premium gasoline. Is this still the case with the N/A 3.3L in my Xterra, as is the case with my wife's 2004 3.5L Pathfinder? The cost doesn't bother me, as I've become numb to it over the last 15+ years of picking 93 octane by default, but if I there isn't any benefit to buying it I'd rather put the money towards my daughter's college fund. (only $199,468* and 17.5 years to go before she needs it)

5. What are the largest tires that I can fit on a stock suspension? I have P265/70R16 tires on it now.

6. How easy is the PML (poor man's lift)? I'm a pretty good DIY enthusiast, and would like to squeeze a bit more height out of the suspension for now.

7. I asked on another forum, but haven't heard back, but does anyone know what the maximum mounting depth is for the front door speakers? The previous owner had an aftermarket stereo installed that overdrives the stock speakers at high volumes.

8. What diameter is the power steering return hose? I'm pretty sure mine is leaking, and read in the FAQ that it is easier/faster/cheaper to just buy a section from an auto parts store.


Those are my questions for now. Feel free to add any tips or tricks for a new guy.

 

[XJINTX]

I had 2 different 1st Gen Xterras and loved them... never had an issue. HOWEVER, remember it's an Interference engine. So watch the mileage that timing belt NEEDS to be changed every 100K. Don't push it... I knows guys that did and paid the price. Lot's of mods for them including SAS. ENJOY!!!!!

 

[DanF.]

I had 2 different 1st Gen Xterras and loved them... never had an issue. HOWEVER, remember it's an Interference engine. So watch the mileage that timing belt NEEDS to be changed every 100K. Don't push it... I knows guys that did and paid the price. Lot's of mods for them including SAS. ENJOY!!!!!

Car has 164,xxx on it, so I'm assuming that it has been done already otherwise it would have detonated by now. How DIY-friendly is the timing belt job? How much does a shop normally charge?

 

[wreckdiver1321]

Hey there, welcome to Xterra ownership! The first gens are great reliable little trucks, looks like you got a really nice clean one.

I'll answer what questions I can, and hopefully that helps some. I'm sure other people like Mike or Richard can fill you in on some of the other VG33E stuff, as I haven't owned one in almost three years.

They like to have knock sensors that poop the bed, so be aware of that. Changing them is kind of a sucky job, so people have often relocated them to the top of the engine to speed up swapping them out when they do go. When they go out, they put the engine into a kind of limp mode, where they get bad mileage and have less power by running the engine super rich.

For a tune-up, your basics are a good place to go. Cap and rotor replacement, and go for NGK plugs and wires. Nissan engines really like NGK products in my experience. If you want to free up the intake for better breathing and throttle response, you can remove the baffles and silencers from the intake. Doesn't take very long and makes a noticeable difference. I'm sure there's write-ups for the procedure all over, but basically is just takes a couple of plumbing test plugs and an hour of time to make it breathe better. It helped my S/C'ed 2003 Fronty.

As for oil and filters, everyone has their preference. I personally use the high mileage oil filters from Pennzoil, though I would never use Pennzoil oil in the engine. I also use WIX filters from time to time. For air filters, I almost exclusively use WIX. My favorite oil is Mobil 1 high mileage. Somebody tested it on a 25,000 mile oil change and it held up remarkably well. There's a write-up about it online somewhere. The results were enough to make me use Mobil 1. I change my oil every 5k.

If the driver's switch opened and closed the window, then I think the motor itself is fine, you just need a new switch. You could try pulling it apart for a cleaning, but I'm not sure if that would work. That being said, I've never attempted that personally. Couldn't hurt to try though.

As far as I know, the NA VG33E runs perfectly fine on regular.

The truck should fit 235/85R16s (32" pizza cutters) without issue. If you want the wider 265/75R16s (still 32, but wider), you might have some rubbing. I personally wouldn't run a larger tire than a 32 on the first gen trucks. That would give you loads of clearance, and the 32s wouldn't kill the power too much. It's a very popular size on the first gen trucks.

The PML is a breeze. I did it on my Frontier in less than an hour for the front. You can crank about 2" out of the stock stuff without any issue really. Reindexing the torsion bars is almost comically easy to do. There's a great write-up on it somewhere. I'll see if I can track it down for you. The back can be lifted with AALs, leaf packs, or shackles. I used a new leaf pack and shackles to achieve the lift I wanted. It's a good, adjustable system.

That's about the extent of what I can answer for you. Best of luck and happy modding!

 

[DanF.]

Hey there, welcome to Xterra ownership! The first gens are great reliable little trucks, looks like you got a really nice clean one.

I'll answer what questions I can, and hopefully that helps some. I'm sure other people like Mike or Richard can fill you in on some of the other VG33E stuff, as I haven't owned one in almost three years.

They like to have knock sensors that poop the bed, so be aware of that. Changing them is kind of a sucky job, so people have often relocated them to the top of the engine to speed up swapping them out when they do go. When they go out, they put the engine into a kind of limp mode, where they get bad mileage and have less power by running the engine super rich.

For a tune-up, your basics are a good place to go. Cap and rotor replacement, and go for NGK plugs and wires. Nissan engines really like NGK products in my experience. If you want to free up the intake for better breathing and throttle response, you can remove the baffles and silencers from the intake. Doesn't take very long and makes a noticeable difference. I'm sure there's write-ups for the procedure all over, but basically is just takes a couple of plumbing test plugs and an hour of time to make it breathe better. It helped my S/C'ed 2003 Fronty.

As for oil and filters, everyone has their preference. I personally use the high mileage oil filters from Pennzoil, though I would never use Pennzoil oil in the engine. I also use WIX filters from time to time. For air filters, I almost exclusively use WIX. My favorite oil is Mobil 1 high mileage. Somebody tested it on a 25,000 mile oil change and it held up remarkably well. There's a write-up about it online somewhere. The results were enough to make me use Mobil 1. I change my oil every 5k.

If the driver's switch opened and closed the window, then I think the motor itself is fine, you just need a new switch. You could try pulling it apart for a cleaning, but I'm not sure if that would work. That being said, I've never attempted that personally. Couldn't hurt to try though.

As far as I know, the NA VG33E runs perfectly fine on regular.

The truck should fit 235/85R16s (32" pizza cutters) without issue. If you want the wider 265/75R16s (still 32, but wider), you might have some rubbing. I personally wouldn't run a larger tire than a 32 on the first gen trucks. That would give you loads of clearance, and the 32s wouldn't kill the power too much. It's a very popular size on the first gen trucks.

The PML is a breeze. I did it on my Frontier in less than an hour for the front. You can crank about 2" out of the stock stuff without any issue really. Reindexing the torsion bars is almost comically easy to do. There's a great write-up on it somewhere. I'll see if I can track it down for you. The back can be lifted with AALs, leaf packs, or shackles. I used a new leaf pack and shackles to achieve the lift I wanted. It's a good, adjustable system.

That's about the extent of what I can answer for you. Best of luck and happy modding!

Thanks! This was a great read. I'm going to be stopping by the Homeless Despot tomorrow on my way home from work to grab some of those plugs for the intake baffle mod.

Would you have a link to the knock sensor relocation mod?

Look forward to trying out the PML in the near future.

 

[MTGunner]

Intake baffle mod? Please elaborate. MTG

 

[XJINTX]

Timing belt and tensioner replacement is pretty straight forward. Dealers and online parts places sell a kit. Our club would get together to do them often so we had it down-pat Just do everything step by step and by the book. Check around you may be pleasantly surprised at how many local guys are around.

 

[Triplesnake]

Nice looking X!

Not sure of the exact specs, but I was able to fit a pair of normal 6.5" Sony speakers in the doors by reusing the spacers that are on the factory ones. Super easy job.

Tune up stuff is pretty straight forward...except for the #6 spark plug. The first time I did mine I ended taking the hood off and using multiple swivels and extensions, and still had to do it by feel. As XJINTX said the timing belt is very DIY friendly. I did mine as part of a head gasket job at almost 200k, so I'd say most of the motor is pretty easy to work on. You shouldn't need to worry about the knock sensor. From what I understand it doesn't do much on the N/A motors. It was more of a big deal for the S/C guys. If you do decide to change or relocate it, probably one of the things that is the biggest pain are the coolant hoses on the back and underside of the upper intake manifold on the drivers side. You might also consider valve cover gaskets while you in there too.

I've used Bosch filters and Castrol oil since day one when we bought ours new in '02. It has over 210k now and runs great.

 

[Beefjerky]

Great buy!

I still have my 04 and it has always served me well...

Go ahead and change that timing belt though. I changed mine at 104K and it broke at 168K. Strangely enough, the engine didn't mangle itself and a new belt brought her back to life.
+1 for the PML and I recommend some low profile bump stops on the front if you crank the torsion bars.

Enjoy!

 

[ambulancemonkee]

Don't worry about the knock sensor relocation since it's not the supercharged motor. Just ignore the codes on the N/A motor, it won't hurt anything. I had a 04 XE automatic the same color for about 5 years and loved it. I bedliner'd all the plastics and roof rack so it was just red and black. The PML is super easy, and inexpensive. The intake mod is also worthwhile because it's cheap and it sounds a little better. Check out Raingler nets for cargo area barrier nets and a net to store jackets, blankets, etc. up against the ceiling in the cargo area. Last I knew, weather tech wasn't making the digital fit floor liners for the first gen X's, but the Husky floor liners held up well for me. I've heard of the 3.3L V6 surviving a broken timing belt, but I'd recommend changing it. It's supposedly an all-day DIY job. My mechanic (not a Nissan store) wanted about $700 parts and labor to do mine.

 

[jingram]

Yep, knock sensor relocation is really only a big deal for the SC motors. The 3.3 is bulletproof as long as you do the timing belts like everyone else mentioned. 87 octane fuel is fine. You can run 265/75/16 or 235/85/16 without issues or rubbing or even a PML. I did for 8 years. Bought brand new BFG TA KOs in 265/75/16 for it and when they were wore out, switched to Duratracs in 235/85/16. Didn't really notice any difference in power or mileage. Mine was also a 5 speed manual. No matter what you do, it will never be a speed demon or have gobs of power, but it is a simple, solid, overlander that I put 100k miles on with at least of a third of that on gravel or worse in the desert of SE Oregon and it never let me down.

I have a 2nd gen Pro-4x Xterra now with a 6speed manual and while I love pretty much everything about it, I miss some of the simplicity of the 1st gen.

 

[Jack Stilts]

Congrats on the new truck! How's it been treating you so far?

 

[Nd4SpdSe]

Don't worry about the knock sensor relocation since it's not the supercharged motor. Just ignore the codes on the N/A motor, it won't hurt anything.

Indeed the KS affects performance and economy in a serious manner on the SC trucks, and it may not feel like it affects performance on the NA trucks, but a knock sensor is a critical sensor, and if there's a fault with it (which doesn't throw a CEL) it should throw the truck into a type of Safe Mode, and while doesn't really affect performance, your fuel economy should take a serious hit. If you don't care for a working knock sensor, at least put in a a new sensor, even if it's a cheap ebay one, or replace it with a resistor. I'm an SC and I've been running a resistor for the last 7-8 years.

 

[Ovrlnd Rd]

We had an '01 and loved it. The only complaint I had was people getting in the back seat always seemed to drag their pants across the dogleg of the quarter panel getting dirt on my back seat. Since I didn't sit their I didn't really care other than having to clean it up

The wife has a Titan now and I've been jonesing for one of the XDs but just can't swing that kind of money at the moment.

 

[DanF.]

I've been enjoying it. It's really good in the snow up here in NH. I got a set of studded Cooper Discoverer M+S tires for the winter, and other than the increased roadnoise from the studs, it's been an upgrade from the Falken Wildpeak H/T tires that came with it. I'm hoping to have enough $$$ set aside for some dedicated off-road wheels and tires once everything melts and dries out. Since this is my DD I don't mind having more road-oriented tires for the commute.

I like 5spd. gearbox, and am trying to find more info on it, such as it hp/tq rating. I've read that the FS5R30A manual gearbox is run by 300ZX guys up to 600hp. I like the idea of having a rig with drivetrain components that much stronger than the engine powering them. And, the VG33E will never be serious power threat.

I may do some hardware mods, like headers, exhaust, intake mod, etc... but I'm more concerned with reliability and have to drive 7 days a week for my multiple jobs. Eventually I'll have some time to tinker.

In the near future I have a set of valve cover gaskets that need to be installed. After that I'll do a full tuneup... still not sure what that entails other than plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil change. I did change the air filter as soon as I bought it, and it sure needed it.

I'd like to add some factory fog/driving lights, but need to get the snow/ice cleared out of the wheel wells to see if there's any factory wiring in place.

There are no CELs currently, but I'll throw my OBDII scanner on there and see if there are any stored knock sensor codes. I'm currently getting around 16mpgs combined, so I'd like to improve it if possible.

We'll be moving from our apartment with no storage space or even a flat parking area to a house with a flat driveway and a garage, so I'll be able to restart my tool collection and have a space to tinker... which will be awesomely therapeutic.