i only have experience getting CC to work again not adapt. There are a number of things that all must be working for CC to function.
Steering wheel buttons
Clock spring
Brake light switch (for lights)
E-brake switch
Brake pressure switch on master cylinder
ABS sensor on rear axle
Any of the above not at 100% and CC won’t turn on. BTW there’s no CC on indicator for most E350 trucks... even with CC. Only way you know it’ll work is if it does.
I got the mirror in (https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Manual...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649). This is the video I used for reference but it didn't quite go as smooth (). The 3rd support down went into an internal gusset in the door so I decided to just cut it off. I probably could have gotten in there with a die grinder but the original mirror was only in with 2 screws so 3 on this one should be fine.
Step 1: Mark where the holes need to be with a sharpie
Step 2: Drill the holes. I first did a pilot hole on the exterior and used the pilot hole to locate the interior hole. Each support is a different diameter. I went 1/8" over on each support using a step drill. The interior holes i did 1"
Step 3: Paint the holes (one of the extra holes wasn't from me...). I used POR-15. At first I wasn't really happy with how thin it went on, maybe i didn't shake it enough. But after it dried, it was a really hard enamel paint so I'm beginning to like it again.
Step 4: I've seen people remove the studs that come on the mirror with a bolt and fender washer but I decided to machine some spacers. I slotted the bolt holes because the studs we're centered in the interior holes I made
Flange OD: 1.25"
Flange THK: 0.125"
Body OD: 1.00"
Overall LG: 2x were 0.5" and 1x was .75"
Bore Dia: 0.75"
Bore Depth: 0.375" and 0.625"
Slot: 0.25" OD x 0.125" LG
End Result: The mirror lines up perfect. I'm really happy with these tow mirrors
Step 1: Wire the harness. I just did color to color since the pioneer instructions didn't have a wiring guide. The only tricky one is the orange for the dimmer. you can connect the orange to orange/black or orange/white. I did orange/black but I'm not sure if that correct. The green wire is for the parking brake to allow for media to play. I'm just going to leave it unhooked for now or bypass it later if I feel like I need to watch videos on there.
Step 2: Cut the stereo hole bigger. The top and bottom just need to be ground flush. I didn't touch the sides. You can probably do this with the dash in but I already had it out.
Step 3: I showed how I ran the aux and USB in a previous post since this doesn't have the connectors on the face. I also had to run the mic to the visor for hands free talking.
Step 4: Install the mounting brackets. Since the Ford uses a non-standard size there's no place for a standard din stereo to mount. This grabs onto the side flanges in the dash
Step 5: Make the electrical connections. The stereo just pushes in the front. I don't believe there's a way to remove the stereo without removing the entire dash piece and unscrewing the mounts so be sure you're ready for that step when you do it.
The speakers seems to work and the apple play works on Mara's phone. I haven't had a chance to connect it to my droid to check that compatibility but I'm happy with the stereo so far
You're doing almost the exact same upgrades that we did in the previous year-and-a-half...stereo (pioneer 8400NEX) ...mirrors (stock ford towing) ...wiring...etc.
The sportsmobile forum is a wealth of information for these vans = https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/forums/ = both for the van side and the engine side.
We also upgraded from a CTS2 to a CTS3...you may need to upgrade the firmware and call tech support for the CTS3.
For tuning, get a SCT X4...available to buy with tunes from these tuners = gearhead or 5-star or DP.
If fluids + filters + etc. are maintained according to the manufacturer, then the engine will last a long time.
There are some parts that should be upgraded - EGR cooler + STC + etc.
Are you planning to tow on flat land or hills or mountains?
Plan to upgrade the transmission cooler to a Tru-cool max = https://www.trucool.com/products/tru-cool-max or Derale = https://derale.com/product-footer/fluid-coolers/hi-flow-fluid-coolers
The stock air filter should be sufficient for your needs.
Might need to upgrade the turbo to keep EGT's lower?
I think we ran the EGT wiring for the CTS through a rubber grommet in the drivers firewall
Instead of a blue spring, consider a custom regulated return for the fuel system. not much more work for a lot more reliability.
Consider upgrading the vacuum brakes to hydraulic brakes...would recommend upgrading the steering cooler at the same time.
Look at these for adding convex mirrors to the tow mirrors = http://cbetr.com/
There's a lot more to detail, but upgrade a bit at a time.
I would love to have a coil-over suspension instead of leaf spring!!
Some links to help understand the issues and solutions for the 6.0L. I prefer to find the source rather than trust internet stories.
Having problems with your Ford 6.0 Powerstroke diesel? This in depth article highlights the major problem areas and helps you find solutions to keep your truck running great.
Common problems with the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel, including clogged EGR valves, sticking injectors, blown head gaskets, and other documented failures. Includes solutions to these problems, advice on preventing them, and how to increase the reliability of the 6.0L Power Stroke.
If you would like more information or assistance in regards to this, we are offering a tech support line to help you through your 6.0 issues for a fee. Please call 970-541-0629 to schedule your phone…
Thanks for all the info an link unreng! It's mostly flat here in Cali but if we move to Colorado I'm sure it will be through some mountains. I actually found a really nice cooler I used to have on my truck that will be perfect for the van.
For the EGT harness, did you drill a new hole or go through an existing grommet?
egt wiring goes thru the rubber grommet below the steering column in the firewall. there's an existing hard-cased tube going thru the same grommet and we piggybacked on that.
I got the EGT in. Getting the harness through the firewall was definitely the hardest part.
Drilled the rear of the D-Side exhaust manifold. Started with a 1/8" pilot then a 21/64". I used a magnet to try and get shavings out but it didn't really pick up any.
Tapped with a 1/8" NPT. I only ran the tap in about halfway so the fitting would sit just shy of flush on the inside
The wiring is tried up next to the brake fluid
I couldn't figure out how to make the existing grommet work so I ended up just drilling out a hole. The previous owner already had a small hole for some alarm wires so I just opened it up to 5/8" to get the connector through. I'll plug the hole with a grommet when they come in the mail
The wiring is a little messy but I have to reroute it all when I put the grommet in
Unfortunately the CTS3 Monitor was having some issues. It kept freezing when I tried to update it and it couldn't connect to the OBD so I'll get customer service on the line tomorrow.
I fabricated a bracket for the backup camera since it was meant to mount the other way around and you can't flip it in the software. I sealed the hole with a grommet and sikaflex. I need to tend to the rust where the roof meets the rain gutter.
I decided to get new speakers to go along with the stereo. The old ones were blown. Don't forget the wiring harness. I sound deadened the doors since I was in there (most of it is hidden on he inside of the door). It's always a snowball effect when you start on something...
Got the hitch installed
Lastly, finished the work to front D-side. I managed to damage the ABS sensor when I tried to replace the ball joints without an impact gun. The abs pump would kick on every time I came to a stop. In order to replace it, you have to pull the disc assembly off. what a pain. I was waiting to do the last shock until I did this other work as well. This one shock took as long as the other three. I just cut the old shock out but getting it the new one back in was a nightmare. I was able to thread the nut most of the way by spinning the shock body but that was starting to damage the grommet once it got tight. then i was one click of the ratchet at a time.
That's the last of the maintenance items. The only things left on my list before my towing trip are:
Blue Spring mod
Coolant filter
Cruise Control
Insulate and plywood floor
The motor work ended up getting moved way up in my timeline. The monitor I got was super nice to have during the process as it was really interesting to watch the gauges as the motor started to fail. I started to overheat on the last hour out to go camping and I was getting a EGR valve code. When I got to camp I noticed the coolant was empty. I topped her off before I started home. It drove fine for about 45 minutes before it started to overheat again. I topped her off and got another 30 minutes. Then it was 20 minutes. After that, the motor was surging and I could see a significant coolant leak coming from somewhere deep. I wasn’t sure if the surging was related to the EGR or the overheating, so I decided to get it towed to avoid damaging the motor. Luckily I had the monitor so I could read the codes and see the motor overheating before it was too late. It was actually really surprising to see how hot the motor got without the needle in the dash getting close to the max or getting a warning light. I wasn’t comfortable seeing how hot it would have to get before those triggered.
I got it home and started to rip in to it. My delta T between oil and coolant temp was way above spec so I knew I needed to replace the oil cooler. I was already planning to upgrade the EGR cooler so knew I had to strip it down pretty far.
The coolant leak ended up being the water pump o-ring. I decided to just replace the water pump since I was already in there. That was a relatively easy fix. I rented a pulley holder but had to make a fan clutch wrench. It worked well enough. I ordered a crows foot so I could torque it during reassembly.
As I was pulling things apart I could tell the EGR cooler had failed. There was a ton of gunk in the exhaust/intake and the headers were full of water. It wouldn’t have been long before I had to pull the motor apart for that if the water pump gasket didn’t fail.
I soaked the intake in engine cleaner then pressure washed it at a car wash. It removed most of the gunk. I took the turbo apart and it felt like it was on the border of seizing up. The surface corrosion was starting to make the vane plate stick. That was all cleaned with a wire wheel/scotch brite then I coated everything in high temp antiseeze before I put it back together
I replaced the oil cooler
Added coolant filter (pics to come)
I replaced the fuel filters since I was in there and both housings seem to have what looks like sand in them. I’m not sure what the deal with that is. Is that a diesel thing or did sand get into the fuel somehow?
The whole process wasn’t too bad for my first time working on this van/any diesel. I broke the clips off of 3 electrical connectors and had to replace them. I accidentally pushed the injector connector into the head and had to go back a few steps. I was scared I was going to have to pull the entire head to fix the connector but it just popped back in place. I didn’t fully seat the oil tubes going into the motor and it shot oil everywhere the first time I tried to start the motor. That required a partial tear down to fix but not too bad. Tool VIPs were the Milwaukee Electric ratchet (not sure why I haven’t gotten one until now) and a harbor fright borescope (allowed me to diagnose the oil tube leak and a few other things without fully disassembling the motor)
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