King Starboard as material for bed drawers/sleeping platform?

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
I recently tried to use King Starboard (1/2") for a counter top in my camper build.

It didnt have the rigidity i was hoping for, and once i cut a small hole for the sink, it was actually fairly flimsy, so i ended up going to a butcher block.

Starboard is great, and super easy to cut and work with, and will last forever, but make sure its properly supported underneath if you'll have weight on it
 

yfarm

Observer
Most of the marine accessories manufactured with starboard are fastened with machine screws and starboard is drilled and tapped. Using wood or sheet metal screws with predrilled holes often results in the material cracking over time. Its heavy, If water resistance is your criteria coat thin plywood with polyester resin on both sides and along the edges. Large sportfishing boats are built using cold molding techniques with 1/4” plywood properly supported.
 

Dr. Cornwallis

Adventurer
It’s looking like 1/2” Coosa Bluewater 26 with some kind of aluminum sub frame is what I’m going to be using. I spoke with a rep from Coosa Composites today, not only was he fast to return my call he was extremely helpful answering questions I had about the products.

Aside from the light weight and high strength, the fact that Coosa can be bonded extremely well with common epoxies is very appealing.

What I will likely be doing is pre drilling pilot holes, applying epoxy and then mechanically securing the pieces together with stainless hardware. Pieces will be coated with bed liner and then mechanically fastened to the aluminum sub frame.

I like the idea of using extruded aluminum as I can assemble it my self, however, I’d still like to look at what it would cost to have the sub frame welded.

If going with square aluminum tubing would 6061 be the most appropriate option?


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RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
I am definitely considering the 8020. I have the back seat removed from my Access Cab so I may order a small amount to mess around with for the rear seat delete.


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Its amazing stuff and i am completely fascinated with it. I have lots of pics of it and how i am using it on my build thread in my sig
 

cobro92

Active member
Its amazing stuff and i am completely fascinated with it. I have lots of pics of it and how i am using it on my build thread in my sig

I understand that you build the frame out of 8020, but what about the paneling that goes on the outside? I guess nice plywood could be used. What if I wanted a more of a nicer marine look? Starboard?


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RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
I understand that you build the frame out of 8020, but what about the paneling that goes on the outside? I guess nice plywood could be used. What if I wanted a more of a nicer marine look? Starboard?

This is how I’m doing it. I personally like the exposed fastener look and makes access to everything easy

this is painted plywood

4E274C0B-FAC6-45AC-AA11-3FE956E8380B.jpeg
 

Boatbuilder79

Well-known member
Starboard is way to heavy.

If you want to use plastic look at expanded pvc panels. They weigh a lot less and You can get 4’x8’ x1/2” sheets at Home Depot for less than $100 and it glues good with pvc pipe glue. YYou can get a marine version too but it costs more. I used it to make some built in tackle boxes and cubbies and then made the doors out of starboard.

A lot of the storage systems on boats are made out of pvc with starboard doors and drawer faces.
 

akhummer

Member
Most of the marine accessories manufactured with starboard are fastened with machine screws and starboard is drilled and tapped. Using wood or sheet metal screws with predrilled holes often results in the material cracking over time. Its heavy, If water resistance is your criteria coat thin plywood with polyester resin on both sides and along the edges. Large sportfishing boats are built using cold molding techniques with 1/4” plywood properly supported.
Yup.....I have cabinetry built out of the stuff in my boat and it is cracked in several places. Pre-drilled corners fastened with screws (as you’ve noted) seem particularly vulnerable. The hull is pretty stiff so I don’t believe it’s from flex, rather thermal expansion/contraction.
 

yfarm

Observer
In 1990 I built some liner boxes for hull compartments in a boat, compartment often had bilge water enter. Stored heavy anchors,rope,etc which went in wet. Built out of 1/4” plywood coated both sides with resin which was tinted white, used 1/4 round molding inside to strengthen joints, used resin to glue with stainless screws as well . Finished with 4
“ glass tape on the outside of the joints. Boxes are still in use today, white color remains, have been pressured washed and bleached repeatedly over the years. no delamination of the plywood. You can take a can of resin or gelcoat to a paint store and have them tint the resin to your color choice. Unlike paint almost impossible to scratch. Would be interesting to compare durability of commercially applied bed liner with cured resin.
 
Last edited:

plh

Explorer
I use 1/4" HDPE sheet over an 8020 frame under the mattress in my wedge camper. No issues.
 

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