Late Model 5.9L Common Rail Reliability

It seems that there are a fair number of people around here who own late 2005 to early 2007 5.9L Dodge diesels. I am looking for some feedback on whats your opinion on the reliability and peace of mind on taking these vehicles off into remote areas. At first thought it seems that these engines are decent with less problems than the competitors, but how is the chassis and body holding up with age.

I am not too sure if its buyers remorse or time to look for another platform to start building a vehicle from. Currently I have a recently acquired 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Diesel 4x4 with manual transmission and transfer case, it was not easy locating a decent vehicle with dual sticks, but in the process of making repairs and upgrades I'm getting a little concerned. The main areas of concern coming up is the electrical and electronic components, including the TIPM, Gauge Cluster, and Chassis WIring, these parts seem to control major functions of the vehicle, are not easily field repairable, and even to diagnose it seems that Starscan or DRB-III is required.

Coming from mostly first gen ownership I understand there are a lot more things in these vehicles providing more comfort and gobs of on the tap, these are wonderful amenities, but when things go wrong or crazy once the vehicle leaves the pavement the extras are useless when you can't get back home. The classics will take the abuse all day long and still make it back at the end of the day, with the new on going on some light service roads issues appear. If you own one I would love to hear what you think or entertain any suggestions you have on improving the electrical systems reliability with higher vibrations.
 

Explorerinil

Observer
I owned a few of them, they are very reliable, make good power and do good on fuel, plus they are easy to work on. Read the carli suspension blog, there is a guy with an 06 that did an 11000 mile trip, pretty good information there.

As for reliability, the stock fuel filter is lacking, I would either add a water separator and run a Baldwin 5 micron fuel filter or run an air dog or fass system. For air filters do not run a k an n or any oiled filter, run a good fleetgard as I have seen dusted turbos with sub par oiled filters. If you want to run a tuner, do not get one that increases fuel rail pressure, run a smarty jr on 40 hp and you’ll get a tad more power but better fuel economy. You will want to upgrade the clutch, stock one is ok but not great. For the front end, upgrade the steering to the 08 style, get a redhead steering box, look at a brace. If your hubs are going, look at a spyntech or dynatrac upgrade if you feel like dumping some cash, and oh yeah I forgot... the stock ball joints suck.

If your dash is not working right or your rpm gage needle is acting weird, the same company made clusters for gm and dodge for a few years, 06 was one of them and they had issues, they are an expensive fix, but there is a guy online that sells replacement ones that work great and are cheap.

Have fun, you got a good truck.
 

verdesard0g

Search and Rescue first responder
I love my 06 CTD, it has plenty of Arizona pin stripes :)

DSC_04684.JPG
 
The mechanical stuff is not a problem as when it goes wrong I can see it figure out whats going on and fix it.

In the six months of ownership im already on the third gauge cluster, the rpm not working does not matter its when the gauge cluster goes bad and the interior lights go flashing at random, headlights cant turn on, door locks wont function correctly, and the gauges play their own dance when the vehicle is off draining power unexpectedly. It seems that taking the truck on the trails is what initiates the demise of a gauge cluster. The current one is a used repaired unit that has been working for about a month but I have not taken the vehicle off the pavement.

Now it seems that the TIPM may also be suspect, the a/c stopped working last week, I checked pressures were good compressor free, pressure transducer seems to be reading ok, and everything works when the clutch is powered on with jumper wires. The TIPM sends out 10.1v to the clutch at all times, when the vehicle is turned on it goes to about 11.5v, with ac turned on it goes to 14.4v but there is only about 150ma of current. Prior it entitle checking the pressure switch fuse and relay to see where the issue is, on this one it seems that the service manual procedures to check the low current requires a chrysler specific scan tool to further diagnose faults. And the internet consensus seems to be going to the dealer for a reading of codes, TIPM reset, reprogram, or replacement of the unit.

It seems these are common problems, I understand electronic degrade much quicker with heat and vibrations, but is this going to become much more of an issue as things age further.
 

MR. ED

Observer
I'll quickly share my story. Wife bought a new 06 2500. Windows/interior lights started to misbehave around 30-40k miles. At 93,000 miles (religious about changing fuel filter) she blew the number 6 cylinder wall out. Went back and forth about what to do. She loved that truck so we had the dealer put in a "new" engine at $15,000.....25,000 miles later the number 6 cylinder blew out again! Tough ******** is what they said basically. Now we're a Ford family with the old Dodge collecting hornet nests in the field. If I come across a deal or wrecked truck I may think about putting a third engine in there. Good luck out there. Definitely very scared of Dodge/Cummins these days.
 

Dalko43

Explorer
The engine itself should be fairly reliable as long as you keep up with the maintenance. There might be a few bad apples out there, but I'd certainly opt for a 5.9L Cummins from that era over a 6.0L Powerstroke.

The truck may be a different story; I don't have a lot of faith in the trucks Chrysler built back then.
 

Inline6

Adventurer
ive had a 04.5 since new. 110K on the clock now. 6 speed with the electronic transfer case...

knock on wood, really no issues. Ball joints, free spin added a few years ago. To be fair, the free spin was because I wanted it, vs needed it.

I don't drive it much, but last year I got in it and drove cross country with no issues.

(I should not of said anything, something will happen)
 

Laps

Active member
I have owned a 2002 Ram 2500 and a 2012 Ram 3500, both diesels. No problems with the 2002 but had a grid heater go out at 51,000 miles. Be sure to keep up with routine maintenance and be sure to change your fuel filter on a tight schedule (I did mine at every oil change). I added an auxiliary fuel filter (MOPAR) in line to the 2012. The Cummins is very reliable, other than the EPA crap that has been added onto the stock configuration over the years.
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
80K on mine zero engine issues. Did put a better smf Southbend in it.
Truck's been very reliable. HD Synergy steering and Dynatrac ball joints. I special ordered mine 75 days from the introduction of the 6.7.
 
So it seems that MR. ED is the only one with that also has seen some of the electrical problems that I have come come across.

Changing parts is not that much of an issue, but the TIPM on this truck seems to be fairly difficult to get a hold of just like the gauge cluster.

The truck has a SB dual disc clutch, Fass fuel system, Exhaust, aluminum driveshaft, reman engine, recent injectors. Currently working on building a flatbed and will be looking into some suspension, but these electrical issues still have me concerned about investing in suspension, or continue the search for a decent first gen to build from.

The intentions are to build a suitable vehicle for travel to Argentina and maybe Africa afterwards, after going through parts of Asia in a FJ80 and motorcycle, the main lesson learned is stupid and simple is really key to keeping equipment running or back running when there are not many resources around.


DSC_0603.JPG
Test fitment of bed planks


IMG_5935.JPG

Some of the first gens that have suddenly "vanished"
 

SoTxAg06

Active member
Had a 2005 diesel with the automatic transmission. I didn’t have any issues in the 120K I owned it. Never changed anything except tires, brake pads, and one set of rear rotors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, it's not a feeling when you park a vehicle, leave to do somethings, then return with no vehicle in sight anymore. This has happened on multiple occasions , I guess the drawback of the simplicity of the vehicles is even with an alarm and starter kill, all one needs is a screwdriver and jumper wire to leave with a truck
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
The first 5 cylinders are perfectly reliable. I have no idea why the sixth one gets nuked so often.

Mr. Ed's story isn't rare. But when you've been burned by Gm or Ford, before your Cummins burns up, you don't really want to talk about it much after singing praise about the Cummins mill for months.
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
188,026
Messages
2,901,350
Members
229,352
Latest member
Baartmanusa
Top