ldea's for keeping one's water system from freezing ?

[ReluctantTraveler]

Just putting this out here: https://heatline.com/product/kompensator/

One a run of, say, 30 ft, this product would seemingly only use 7.5 amps/hour at 12v. That seems pretty reasonable on a LiFePo4 system, especially if you have shore power once you reach your destination (or a robust generator or solar system to recharge).

 

[Alloy]

Most of the 12v heat pad systems I've seen average ~5 amps of draw. I just upgraded to a 270ah LiFePo4 battery, so I'm not overly concerned about that. The tape, on the other hand, seems to be more of a draw concern.

We have no inverter (nor any plans to get one), so I'm looking into 12v recirculating pumps now. That's an interesting option (and would save me from having to pull a bunch of insulation out to setup).

I know there's no one answer, but I can't figure out how long I can expect my supply lines to go before they freeze given my current setup.

5Ah = 120Ah in 24hrs.

The answer to the last question is Sensor Push. Set the alarm at 35F.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

5Ah = 120Ah in 24hrs.

That seems pretty reasonable for a well designed battery system with a way to recharge each day.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

That seems pretty reasonable for a well designed battery system with a way to recharge each day.

let’s say you travel 6 hours a day, then either plug in or have solar. That’s 30 ah burned. Reasonable with a lithium setup.

 

[Alloy]

let’s say you travel 6 hours a day, then either plug in or have solar. That’s 30 ah burned. Reasonable with a lithium setup.

....lets say.......you're parked for 7 days. The sun never rises above the trees and there's 6" of snow on the solar panels. The lights are on for 15hrs/ day, heat is on 24/7 and the closest plug-in is 200 miles away.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

....lets say.......you're parked for 7 days. The sun never rises above the trees and there's 6" of snow on the solar panels. The lights are on for 15hrs/ day, heat is on 24/7 and the closest plug-in is 200 miles away.

yep, boondocking with that setup is very different from the use case I’m describing and my intended usage.

that sounds like more of a “keep water bottles inside the camper” kind of situation.

might consider shoveling that snow off the panels though.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

This is where absolutes fail, right? Heat pads and tape can be energy hogs if boondocking and very low draw for winter camping with hookups and traveling between sites.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

I don't plan to do any winter camping but sometimes at Altitude the temps do dip down well below freezing... I have been trying to figure a way to keep my water pump and the fresh water tank that is below the floor in my trailer from freezing... At home I use a very small pump to recirulate hot water through out pipes so we don't have to run a lot of water before it is hot... Water is like gold here in San Diego... see pic... was wondering if something like that might work in the trailer... it would take a bit of power and LP gas to heat the water which doesn't sound like a winner but not sure what other options there may be... What do you do ?

Thanks

I've been mulling over this problem quite a bit as well, as we're planning to make a drive from the New England area down to FL and back this winter, and we'll likely by in freezing temps for the first leg of our trip.

Where I think I've ultimately landed...

• ThermaHeat pads on the fresh and gray tanks, as well as the drain pipe and valve.
• I just upgraded from a black tank to a cassette toilet, so that will be inside the body of the camper.
• Rerouting my supply lines to inside the camper.

My supply lines are external, sandwiched between the floor and a thin layer of batt insulation. This is my biggest concern.

I initially looked at heat trace wire for them, as well as a recirculating pump. Both would require me to pull apart the bottom of my camper, which I'm not keen to do. Rerouting the lines actually seems easier, cheaper, and more effective.