leaf springs: new or re-arch?
- Thread starter Wildcat
- Start date
W0lfpack91
New member
New is always better. re-arching is just a pad for time the metal is already old and worn.
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Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
Call Atlas Spring they will set you up with the proper springs. I love Deavers but they are on the soft side and tend to sag over time.
Mundo4x4Casa
West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
Wildcat,
Another approach is to put on add-a-leaves with maybe longer U bolts. It really depends on how much weight you carry back there. If a small camper, I would add a couple slightly more curved leaves to the pack. It's kind of apples and oranges but I added 2 more upper secondary leaves to the so-called overload pack; one add-a-leaf to the main pack; a set of Stable Loads; and have been very happy with the result. I've done this with many 4WD's and it's always a, "try a minimum change and keep working it until you like it" approach.
I tried re-arching the springs on my 1970 FJ-55 to 3 inches and they worked great.....for about a year and a half. After that time the metal memory set in and they slowly and inexorably settled to the exact same place they started. The spring people did all the right stuff: oil quenching; heat treating etc. to no avail. So, no re-arching.
Another approach is to put on add-a-leaves with maybe longer U bolts. It really depends on how much weight you carry back there. If a small camper, I would add a couple slightly more curved leaves to the pack. It's kind of apples and oranges but I added 2 more upper secondary leaves to the so-called overload pack; one add-a-leaf to the main pack; a set of Stable Loads; and have been very happy with the result. I've done this with many 4WD's and it's always a, "try a minimum change and keep working it until you like it" approach.
I tried re-arching the springs on my 1970 FJ-55 to 3 inches and they worked great.....for about a year and a half. After that time the metal memory set in and they slowly and inexorably settled to the exact same place they started. The spring people did all the right stuff: oil quenching; heat treating etc. to no avail. So, no re-arching.
Mundo4x4Casa
West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
RegCab, I hear you about the block and spring stack height. This was a woe on several smaller 4WD's I had done SOA jobs on,
solved with anti-wrap bars, but the Dodge Gen II blocks and leaves seem to be a lot less bendy in comparison. I think it's the thickness of the actual pack and bottom overload spring that keeps the axle wrap to a minimum. If I had it to do again, I would take your advice and have a qualified spring shop build a set of springs to fit my purposes.
jefe
solved with anti-wrap bars, but the Dodge Gen II blocks and leaves seem to be a lot less bendy in comparison. I think it's the thickness of the actual pack and bottom overload spring that keeps the axle wrap to a minimum. If I had it to do again, I would take your advice and have a qualified spring shop build a set of springs to fit my purposes.
jefe
Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
That is basically what I am doing with the Bronco. Since I am doing an rear axle swap anyway, I am replacing the factory perches. The perches I am using will sit lower on the axle tube and are longer. This will help with axle wrap. I am not doing custom springs but using off the shelf springs that offer 2 inches more lift than the front. To correct ride height I am replacing the rear hangers and shackles. By playing with the rear hanger length and position on the frame plus longer or shorter shackles, I can set ride height wherever I want and also gain axle droop. All this without sacrificing compression. Flat spring is flat spring. I will have to decide if I want to compensate for loaded vs unloaded height. Depends on how the vehicle will spend most of it's time.
I hate overload springs as they make unloaded ride harsh. I do have an idea on how to adjust loaded ride height without compromising ride quality. It is rather complicated and takes some research to gather the correct parts to do it. I hate to mention it, because when I do the first image that pops into people's mind is low riders or devices that end up limiting compression distance travel. Airbags!! Yes I said it. Good quality long travel Firestone and Goodyear air bags are available but it would be 100% custom. Most air bag kits use a generic bag with a spacer to sit on top of the axle or spring pack. That spacer will limit travel distance place you may lose droop if they used a short bag. You don't need large diameter heavy duty truck or bus bags. You only need to compensate for the additional weight.
One thing you may find with re-arched springs with higher than stock height is the shackle angle may end up wrong as the spring will be shorter eye to eye. Also it may cause a shift in axle location as most factory springs the spring is shorter in the front than the rear.
I hate overload springs as they make unloaded ride harsh. I do have an idea on how to adjust loaded ride height without compromising ride quality. It is rather complicated and takes some research to gather the correct parts to do it. I hate to mention it, because when I do the first image that pops into people's mind is low riders or devices that end up limiting compression distance travel. Airbags!! Yes I said it. Good quality long travel Firestone and Goodyear air bags are available but it would be 100% custom. Most air bag kits use a generic bag with a spacer to sit on top of the axle or spring pack. That spacer will limit travel distance place you may lose droop if they used a short bag. You don't need large diameter heavy duty truck or bus bags. You only need to compensate for the additional weight.
One thing you may find with re-arched springs with higher than stock height is the shackle angle may end up wrong as the spring will be shorter eye to eye. Also it may cause a shift in axle location as most factory springs the spring is shorter in the front than the rear.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
I will follow Hillbilly's recommendation for Atlas Springs. I have an old set on my F350 that I beat the hell out of on a regular basis. It rides incredibly well and takes all the abuse I dish out. There are a set of railroad tracks I go over all the time. They are in a 55mph zone. Everyone slows down but I go off them at 55. It scares the crap out of everyone else when they see me fly, but the truck lands super smooth. Don't waste your time or money stacking crap springs together. You will be disappointed with the ride and the time and money you will be wasting.
Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
You said it politer than I could so I didn't say it.
beef tits
Well-known member
Add-a-leafs ride like ********.
Just get new springs.
I tried a set from sdtrucksprings.com; Can't comment on long term use but 6 months and 10k miles; so far so good.
Some trucks use TTY (torque to yield) u-bolts. Keep that in mind when replacing, if yours are TTY from the factory they are NOT re-usable.
Just get new springs.
I tried a set from sdtrucksprings.com; Can't comment on long term use but 6 months and 10k miles; so far so good.
Some trucks use TTY (torque to yield) u-bolts. Keep that in mind when replacing, if yours are TTY from the factory they are NOT re-usable.
Happy Joe
Apprentice Geezer
Definitely either replace the springs with new or get some good junkyard takeoffs; every re-arched spring that I have ever had went flat or reverse arch within a month; don't waste your time/money...
Rubber bushings have always given me better ride and a bit more flex than poly. The only time that I was happy with polly was when I was setting up cars for max cornering, and didn't care about the ride.
Enjoy!
Rubber bushings have always given me better ride and a bit more flex than poly. The only time that I was happy with polly was when I was setting up cars for max cornering, and didn't care about the ride.
Enjoy!
Last edited:
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Rubber is fine, Poly will last longer. *Happy Joe just posted at the same time. I agree with his post.