Many 1st gens here inspiring me... I got the 4.56, that seems to be the ratio for 35s.
I went with the 14 4x kit from solo. Going to get this front end looking like this. http://www.solomotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/DSC_00254.jpg
Leibbrand's 06 DC Limited Tundra Build
- Thread starter Leibbrand
- Start date
Many 1st gens here inspiring me... I got the 4.56, that seems to be the ratio for 35s.
I went with the 14 4x kit from solo. Going to get this front end looking like this. http://www.solomotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/DSC_00254.jpg
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Its a good thing Solo's sale is over, I would be out alot of money.
Goes to Monday I believe. They're taking orders sat as well. 
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I think I have to. I did a quick measure and even with the flare I don't think its enough with moving The fender metal and the flair.
Wiring Provisions
Wiring provisions day... I tried to think it through and do it all at once.
I measured and built the bundles outside the truck.
To build the bundles, it was a mix of colored wire and white striped wire. I got the idea from some toyota forum to buy white wire and a pack of markers from Staples (8$). It makes 10 different types of wire. I have a Brothers labeler, so I used it to make the wiring ends easier to identify. In the future it will make trouble shooting easier. Inverter wire was crimped with a hydraulic crimper from ebay. I've had good luck with this crimper unit. All harnesses wrapped in vinyl sheath from off of ebay and with adhesive backed heat shrink.
Putting a hole in the fire wall was with an amazon generic step bit. A Daystar firewall boot finishes it off. The generic step bit was very dull compared to other Irwin step bits I have. This was more single use so it was good enough. I had to unbolt the fuse box and use a confined space drill ($20) from harbor freight to get the hole drilled. I painted the sheet metal with rustcap, and put in the boot with some black RTV. Once I get everything set, I'll zip tie the boot and use tape to wrap it up.
The triggers I'll connect with a duetsch 10 pin connector (coming in any day now) so I can remove the relay box easily and add anything else in the future. The relay box being used is the dual bus bar w/ 35 amp micro relays from Bussmann. The inverter relay an 80 amp continuous relay from Stinger.
The switches are all red backlit and red indicator from ebay or CH4X4. The battery monitor is from solidkit, an outfit in Australia. Ebay sells similar, but they are blue backlit and that wasnt what I was looking for.
The left dash from an early Tundra allowed for an aux light switch and winch switch to fit. Space is limited for the 1st gen so I had to get creative. The under dash area is where I put the dual battery monitor and the aux link. I am using the aux link on the runner (diehard plat is dying) and really like the push button jump. The panel is a cut down and dremmeled tundra switch blank.
The center front console has the duct removed for now, and installed the 4 slot Sequoia. I'll rework this later to something that allows heat to go to the rear. I molded in a late model camry switch blank into the tundra cupholder. Not perfect, but acceptable for me.
The rear console takes a tundra switch blank, and molded it into the Sequoia audio control trim panel. The temperature probe and battery monitor, I put together from two different units from ebay so that it would be red, consistent with everything else. The temperature and battery monitor is connected such that it turns on when the fridge is on. The probe itself was elongated by some very delicate soldering and connects when fridge is installed with a duetch connector.
The rear of the console has fridge up-gauged wire connected to the factory 12V outlet. The small cobra inverter is wired to a factory AC outlet I got from a Sienna. The inverter is rarely used in my last rig on a laptop but is used for charging my portable FSR radios.
Left Dash
Aux Lights, ditch lights or cornering lights
Winch In/Out, easy to reach
Under Dash
Dual Battery Monitor
Battery Link
Center Front
Lockers
USB chargers x3
USB for Android integration
Center
LED Bumper Light
Rear Bumper Lights
Winch Power
ARB Compressor
Rear Console
AC Inverter
Fridge
Battery Voltage and Fridge Temperature Probe
Other stuff, I had the cluster LEDs swapped to red by biohazard2070 on Tacomaworld. Super quick, and very reasonable price. He also did the steering wheel controls, and the window switch. All red dash now - I really can't stand the light green toyota dashes. The steering wheel lights are uniform red, just hard to capture with cell phone.
Wiring provisions day... I tried to think it through and do it all at once.
I measured and built the bundles outside the truck.
- trigger/source bundle (main battery, aux battery, headlight)
- Inverter large gauge wire
- Fridge power
- Winch control
- Relay triggers
To build the bundles, it was a mix of colored wire and white striped wire. I got the idea from some toyota forum to buy white wire and a pack of markers from Staples (8$). It makes 10 different types of wire. I have a Brothers labeler, so I used it to make the wiring ends easier to identify. In the future it will make trouble shooting easier. Inverter wire was crimped with a hydraulic crimper from ebay. I've had good luck with this crimper unit. All harnesses wrapped in vinyl sheath from off of ebay and with adhesive backed heat shrink.
Putting a hole in the fire wall was with an amazon generic step bit. A Daystar firewall boot finishes it off. The generic step bit was very dull compared to other Irwin step bits I have. This was more single use so it was good enough. I had to unbolt the fuse box and use a confined space drill ($20) from harbor freight to get the hole drilled. I painted the sheet metal with rustcap, and put in the boot with some black RTV. Once I get everything set, I'll zip tie the boot and use tape to wrap it up.
The triggers I'll connect with a duetsch 10 pin connector (coming in any day now) so I can remove the relay box easily and add anything else in the future. The relay box being used is the dual bus bar w/ 35 amp micro relays from Bussmann. The inverter relay an 80 amp continuous relay from Stinger.
The switches are all red backlit and red indicator from ebay or CH4X4. The battery monitor is from solidkit, an outfit in Australia. Ebay sells similar, but they are blue backlit and that wasnt what I was looking for.
The left dash from an early Tundra allowed for an aux light switch and winch switch to fit. Space is limited for the 1st gen so I had to get creative. The under dash area is where I put the dual battery monitor and the aux link. I am using the aux link on the runner (diehard plat is dying) and really like the push button jump. The panel is a cut down and dremmeled tundra switch blank.
The center front console has the duct removed for now, and installed the 4 slot Sequoia. I'll rework this later to something that allows heat to go to the rear. I molded in a late model camry switch blank into the tundra cupholder. Not perfect, but acceptable for me.
The rear console takes a tundra switch blank, and molded it into the Sequoia audio control trim panel. The temperature probe and battery monitor, I put together from two different units from ebay so that it would be red, consistent with everything else. The temperature and battery monitor is connected such that it turns on when the fridge is on. The probe itself was elongated by some very delicate soldering and connects when fridge is installed with a duetch connector.
The rear of the console has fridge up-gauged wire connected to the factory 12V outlet. The small cobra inverter is wired to a factory AC outlet I got from a Sienna. The inverter is rarely used in my last rig on a laptop but is used for charging my portable FSR radios.
Left Dash
Aux Lights, ditch lights or cornering lights
Winch In/Out, easy to reach
Under Dash
Dual Battery Monitor
Battery Link
Center Front
Lockers
USB chargers x3
USB for Android integration
Center
LED Bumper Light
Rear Bumper Lights
Winch Power
ARB Compressor
Rear Console
AC Inverter
Fridge
Battery Voltage and Fridge Temperature Probe
Other stuff, I had the cluster LEDs swapped to red by biohazard2070 on Tacomaworld. Super quick, and very reasonable price. He also did the steering wheel controls, and the window switch. All red dash now - I really can't stand the light green toyota dashes. The steering wheel lights are uniform red, just hard to capture with cell phone.
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wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Nice work. I've always enjoyed 12VDC electrical, and it seems like you do too.
I put my LED light bar switch to the left of my steering wheel after opening up the hole. I found the PN for the Sequoia 4 switch holder and Toyota only wants $70, not the worst in the world. I am keeping my eyes out for a junk yard one. I've got those 4 spots ear marked for front front locker, rear locker, air compressor and the 4th I am debating for either the dual voltage gauge or something else.
How do you like that Solid Kit Dual battery gauge? What color did you get? I was eyeing up the red, but since my interior is green I didn't think it would match. How deep is the switch? I also just installed my dual battery system and put my control rocker switch in the same spot as you did. Perhaps putting it in that same spot would make it less bright for night driving and would clash less with my green. Let me know how you like it. I did alot of research for gauges and it seems like the best.
Ever since you put me on the CH4x4 Toyota style switches the OTRATTW Contura V seems less appealing.
The last thing I need to sort out is a spot for my winch switch. Since I have a manual cutoff under the hood, I don't need a power switch, just an in and out. I am thinking of putting it in the center console, on the drivers side, opposite of where my heated seat switches are. I can get a rocker type or CH4x4 switch in there. My other option would be the radio bezel, under the Hazard switch. Tho I'd have to go with a level type switch with one of those red missle covers. Seems like it would be a bit tacky. I think reaching down toward the heated switch area would be more natural that reaching forward to the radio area.
I put my LED light bar switch to the left of my steering wheel after opening up the hole. I found the PN for the Sequoia 4 switch holder and Toyota only wants $70, not the worst in the world. I am keeping my eyes out for a junk yard one. I've got those 4 spots ear marked for front front locker, rear locker, air compressor and the 4th I am debating for either the dual voltage gauge or something else.
How do you like that Solid Kit Dual battery gauge? What color did you get? I was eyeing up the red, but since my interior is green I didn't think it would match. How deep is the switch? I also just installed my dual battery system and put my control rocker switch in the same spot as you did. Perhaps putting it in that same spot would make it less bright for night driving and would clash less with my green. Let me know how you like it. I did alot of research for gauges and it seems like the best.
Ever since you put me on the CH4x4 Toyota style switches the OTRATTW Contura V seems less appealing.
The last thing I need to sort out is a spot for my winch switch. Since I have a manual cutoff under the hood, I don't need a power switch, just an in and out. I am thinking of putting it in the center console, on the drivers side, opposite of where my heated seat switches are. I can get a rocker type or CH4x4 switch in there. My other option would be the radio bezel, under the Hazard switch. Tho I'd have to go with a level type switch with one of those red missle covers. Seems like it would be a bit tacky. I think reaching down toward the heated switch area would be more natural that reaching forward to the radio area.
hey man, dropped by your thread, 35s are looking great!
Will report if the monitor is distracting, figured it was not something I needed while driving. Hopefully its out of sight. One thing you could do is get some tint films and change its color or darken it. That's how I tinted my overhead panel red. search for Rosco Rosco Lux Small Swatchbook
CH4x4 type are on ebay and some other outfits cheaper if you don't want red. Having bought both ebay and CH4x4, I can say there are the same damn thing. They are nice looking but they dont seem like very good quality. Time will tell.
If it was me, I wouldnt put the winch switch on the radio bezel. Like you said, probably wouldnt look good and probably wouldnt be in a natural position. If you're doing a toggle, might look to the right of the battery switch on the fixed panel. I might also do something in the console. The console insert (inside) could be a mounting point. There is room from the ABS insert to the console housing to run wire in. Anywhere on the left side of the console would work too I think.
seanpistol
Explorer
I definitely need to do some serious cleaning up of my wiring as well. I've had a fuse block in my garage for a couple years and still haven't put it in lol
A.Wilson013
Adventurer
****** happened in here?
I leave for a month and it goes from a nice truck for long road trips to dual lockers, re-geared, king suspension, and a supercharger on the way.
A supercharger is on the way, right?
I leave for a month and it goes from a nice truck for long road trips to dual lockers, re-geared, king suspension, and a supercharger on the way.
A supercharger is on the way, right?
no SC, that would be a bit much.
This was going to be a light offroad, no trails, more camping space, higher speed dirt road rig. Dual lockers are because I want a rear, and front is more since I am in there with the gears. This rig has 100k on it so I want to build it quick and get some years out of it.
Once I get some of the major work done, and it on 35s, you should check it out.
Both of your rigs look great! Like how fast you are moving on this one.
I'm somewhat looking to jump from the 3G 4Runner to DC Tundra also.... Only potential issue is the insane pricing in the NW, at least my 4runner will sell for a premium too which should help offset the price of the Tundra (only 80k miles). If you don't mind, about how much did you pick up your Tundra for? Did you buy it in the NW? If/when I do start looking I'm thinking it might be worth the flight to California or Texas then driving the truck back up. Thanks
I'm somewhat looking to jump from the 3G 4Runner to DC Tundra also.... Only potential issue is the insane pricing in the NW, at least my 4runner will sell for a premium too which should help offset the price of the Tundra (only 80k miles). If you don't mind, about how much did you pick up your Tundra for? Did you buy it in the NW? If/when I do start looking I'm thinking it might be worth the flight to California or Texas then driving the truck back up. Thanks
I paid a bit below book value, like 10%. This one was very clean under and inside so figured it was worth getting this one. I saw many lower priced ones that were trashed.
Ive bought a Texas car before and brought it back, but that was a higher priced car so offset was more. Definitely would consider it again.