Lifetime trailer @ costco

calicamper

Expedition Leader
Quick note for the Original Lifetime Tent Trailer owners. The axle is a Henderson 2000lb axle part number S/618947 the bearings are L444649 and the Seal is 10-60. Inner and outer bearings are the same. Just incase anyone needs the info. Having mine repacked and gone through next week.
 

RubiconGeoff

Adventurer
I never had problems with my trailer's original 2000lb axle, but I still upgraded mine to a 3500lb axle. The bigger bearings are another benefit, but my primary reason for doing so was to be able to fit matching JK wheels so I didn't have to haul around a separate spare tire just for the trailer.
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
The heaviest I've run is with 1200lbs in a dump run our camping trips we pack considerably less. Last weekend packed for 8 was probably the heaviest we'll ever be that included two nights of fire wood also. Probably 600lbs loaded on the deck. We typically tow with the Subaru which case stock tires and set up is ideal. Last weekend we did 190 mile round trip and the tank average was 23mpg. That included kids bike on the roof with the roof box.

The stock bearings are like $4 so just replacing them when I have it repacked next week. Rough guess we have about 2000 miles on it.
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
I never had problems with my trailer's original 2000lb axle, but I still upgraded mine to a 3500lb axle. The bigger bearings are another benefit, but my primary reason for doing so was to be able to fit matching JK wheels so I didn't have to haul around a separate spare tire just for the trailer.

I ordered the spare tire bracket from Life Time when I bought ours on Costco.com. Glad I did that! LOL
 

Deav

New member
Details?

I never had problems with my trailer's original 2000lb axle, but I still upgraded mine to a 3500lb axle. The bigger bearings are another benefit, but my primary reason for doing so was to be able to fit matching JK wheels so I didn't have to haul around a separate spare tire just for the trailer.

I am getting ready to do the exact same thing! Can you PLEASE share the specific details? I am trying to figure out what axle length, adapters etc will work, and do not want to mess it up as the return policies suck! I have stock JK rubicon wheels and tires that I am hoping to use...
 

RubiconGeoff

Adventurer
I am getting ready to do the exact same thing! Can you PLEASE share the specific details? I am trying to figure out what axle length, adapters etc will work, and do not want to mess it up as the return policies suck! I have stock JK rubicon wheels and tires that I am hoping to use...

I was planning to do a more formal write-up on the mods but I don't want to keep you waiting. Here's what I did:

I had originally set up my trailer to fit 31x10.5R15 tires on the OEM axle, but after moving to a JK I found that it sat a bit too low and I wanted to be able to fit my Jeep's 315/70R17 wheels and tires so I wouldn't have to lug around an extra spare dedicated to the trailer. I bought some OEM JK "Moab" 17x7.5" wheels and used 285/75R17 Toyo All Terrains for a similar height but slighly narrower and lighter. I made sure with my measurements that I'd have enough clearance between the sidewalls of the 315's and the trailer's frame rail. Here's what I came up with:

OEM wheels have a lot of backspacing, and they are hub-centric with a small center bore so they don't fit around a trailer hub. I picked up some spacers from Lenny at Motorsport Tech that he makes specifically for this application. They are 1.75" thick which is the minimum needed to clear the trailer hub's grease cap. I then bought a custom-made 70-inch-WMS-WMS non-cambered 3500lb axle from Brandon at Down2Earth Trailers with 5x5" hubs (for reference, the OEM axle's WMS-WMS measurement is 65 inches). Because I wanted to move the axle forward for better weight distribution and I wanted the trailer to ride smoother over rough trails (I never carry the heavy loads that the short 2000lb-rated springs are designed for) I had him include some 1150lb-rated 29"-long springs, shackles, spring hangers, U-bolts, and U-bolt plates. Shipped to my door, all of these parts cost about $100 less than I could locally source just the axle.

I kept the shackle hangers in the same location, but I welded the new spring hangers 9 inches forward from the OEM hangers. This put the axle 4.5 inches forward, which brought my trailer's tongue weight down from 115lbs to 86lbs. I obviously needed some new fenders to cover these bigger tires in their new location, so I ordered some 13x36" fenders from etrailer.com and bolted them directly to the trailer's box sides rather than the fender brackets.

Please forgive the boring driveway cellphone picture instead of a scenic backcountry trail glamour shot:

trailer_zpsrgve5w5a.jpg


With the longer and softer springs, the trailer rides so much better over bumps. I haven't taken it on any trails yet, but the "nuisance rocks" that always caused the trailer to bounce all over the place should be soaked right up. The tongue jack and support legs still reach the ground, but I carry some short segments of 4x4" pressure treated wood to place under the feet when I'm camped on uneven ground. The step up into the trailer is pretty tall even with the step stool, but the additional height not only gives good frame clearance from the rocky trails I frequent, but it also keeps our beds up high out of reach of lions and tigers. Frame height is at 24.5" ground clearance.

Don't rely on my measurements for your trailer build - double check everything to make sure I'm not screwing up your build for you! If you're only going to be using OEM-size tires, you won't need quite as much axle width so you could probably get away with a 69" axle. And you could use some narrower fenders too.

Unrelated to the axle and suspension, I also upgraded the tongue from 3x3" 0.095"-wall square tube to 3x3" 0.188"-wall square tube that I picked up locally, and I lengthened it by 16 inches. I also added an inexpensive Harbor Freight hitch cargo rack ($49 with coupon!) and adapted it to the tongue to carry stuff:

rack1a_zpspcxavoba.jpg


I haven't yet used it since I've only just completed all these upgrades, but this gives you an idea what kind of capacity it provides:

rack2a_zpsns1j2cu0.jpg


I use a Lock'N'Roll hitch which has performed flawlessly both on- and off-road and makes my trailer a bit harder to be stolen when I unhitch it and leave it at camp while I'm out 4wheeling for the day.
 
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calicamper

Expedition Leader
tmp_8044-20150506_232239827567993.jpgtmp_8044-20150520_193643118998707.jpgtmp_8044-20150521_161737-1783413726.jpgNo mods to mine, all stock running gear but I did add a locking tongue box and a 50caliber ammo box/solar generator/battery for LED lighting.

So I have LED lighting strip on the inside lid of the tongue box which we used Memorial Day weekend to Light up our camp after a brazen Raccoon jumped on our table at 7pm with two people at the table!! We lit up camp like a supermarket along with some large wood thrown at the Coon. Seemed to solve our issue he never came back. I have a 4ft strip sewn into the top of the privacy curtain on each side with a micro switch down low near the front of the tent for each side. I ran the power cord behind the front pockets stitched to those. Then pass it out through the velcro flap where I have a simple automotive style plug from the battery box for power. I also have a 12volt charging hub we set in the front pockets for cell phones, gopro ipad etc.

On the back of the trailer I have one ATV flood light soon to be wired to a key fob switch for remote activation to use when backing up in the dark. I'm adding a LED light strip which Ill probably stick to a wood dowell and velcro to one of the main poles by the door with a dimmer micro switch for lighting the camp and or back porch etc. Wife really liked the few items I had installed before our Memorial Day weekend trip. So just perfecting it a little. The Solar set up is a simple off grid light solar controller 20amp max controller hooked to two small 10watt Renogy panels. I routed all our power use through the output of the controller aka light side to take advantage of the battery management logic the controller has. The battery is a 18ah battery That just fits in the 50cal box. So far so good its working great.

So with 20ft of strip LEd lighting total and the high out put ATV LED light. With all turned on our draw is 3.8 amps at full output no dimming. One 4ft strip over a bed draws about .4 amps at full output not dimmed. The ATV flood is a 1amp draw.
 
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calicamper

Expedition Leader
Regarding the stock bounce. Tempted to rig up shocks to cut down on the bounce. It gets a bit annoying on the rough CA highways.
 

RubiconGeoff

Adventurer
Regarding the stock bounce. Tempted to rig up shocks to cut down on the bounce. It gets a bit annoying on the rough CA highways.

If you don't haul heavy loads with your trailer, you might be better served by the cheaper and easier solution of pulling one of the leaves out of each spring to soften the suspension. I had considered adding shocks to my trailer, but once I saw what a difference there was after installing softer springs, I now see no reason to go to the trouble. Since this is an easy-enough mod to make and is completely reversible, that's what I'd recommend trying first.
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
If you don't haul heavy loads with your trailer, you might be better served by the cheaper and easier solution of pulling one of the leaves out of each spring to soften the suspension. I had considered adding shocks to my trailer, but once I saw what a difference there was after installing softer springs, I now see no reason to go to the trouble. Since this is an easy-enough mod to make and is completely reversible, that's what I'd recommend trying first.

I wish but we do use use it in utility mode and that option wont work. The shock idea doesnt look to difficult. But I may need to build a bracket for the top of the shock.
 

Deav

New member
This thread is great

Okay, I finally got around to completing my "RubiconGeoff" mods... I did not get many in progress pictures as I figured he covered them very well and it would only be a duplication of his efforts.

I went with a galvanized square tube axle that was available as a 3500 lb rated replacement axle for Road King brand of trailer in the exact size I needed. I went for springs to support 3000 lbs, as i do carry loads, but the length of them pushing the axle forward has my hopes up for balancing loads easier.

I found some great items on Craigslist like some Jeep wheels and some used aluminum fenders. I reused the two best stock tires when i replaced the tires on my Jeep.

I extended the tow bar, using the recommended 3" square 3/16" wall tubing. I bought a prefab length of 7' to save money. Worthy to note here is that i "had" to buy a fancy set of drill bits for all of the holes i drilled in this process. Up front I utilized the same HF rack and it is extremely sturdy. The lock-n-roll hitch will have to wait until Christmas unfortunately as I ran out of funds.

At this time i decided to tear the trailer apart and do something i have not seen yet, and add a receiver hitch. First, I upgraded the two rear crossbeams to 3/16" wall and then welded the receiver tube in place. While we had it mildly disassembled, we went ahead and layered on some deck stain/weatherproofing to both sides of the wooden deck.

Another variant, since i was adamant to use my CL find fenders, i settled on a mounting system that I have seen on big rigs where i clamped the fender to tubes extending from the trailer. I welded flanges to the side of the trailer and used Home Depot black pipe that was already threaded. Cool thing is, they are very easy to remove if needed, as you can simply unscrew the pipes.

Oh yeah, had to rewire as welding burned up the wires...

We are going on a shakedown run this weekend, so I will take some glamour shots then.
 

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