Lifting a Class C on an E-350 Chassis

[Nomadista]

My new-to-me class C RV dually is good but has one major annoyance: every time I go up the slightest incline—even entering a gas station—its rear drags. Because of this and because I expect to take it this year on very mild dirt roads and very flat off road terrain, I’m looking to lift it. I am not looking to bring this too far off road, I realize it’s not designed for that. Just a little bit.

Phase one goal:

• lift by 6”

Phase two goal:

• Wear out this set of tires, which are new, and add larger tires with more traction

It’s a 1997 Four Winds on a E-350 chassis, hence why I’m posting in this subforum.

WeldTec has this kit:
https://weldtecdesigns.com/product/class-c-rv-suspension-lift-kit/

But that seems like a lot ($7500) to spend for a rig this old, I don’t expect I would get my money back. Plus, I would have to bring the rig to him and he’s nowhere near me.

Surely I can do this for less than $7500. Here is where I’m looking.

U-Joint: Seem to do only 4x4 conversions

ActionVan: Perhaps their Performance kit, at $2k, will work

Action Van Suspension - Prices and Shipping - Ford Van Lift Kits

Manufacturer and Distributor of High Quality Suspension Systems for E-Series Ford Vans. We make it cool to drive a van again! Ford Van Lift Kits. Bolt on kits for your Ford Van.

www.actionvansuspension.com

Camburg:
$3.5k kit shipped to me; 4 -5 “ lift
https://camburg.com/shop/suspension/performance-suspension/camburg-ford-e-series-van-250-350-2wd-97-04-trail-series-kit/

That’s what I’ve found so far. In terms of kits suitable for an RV, have I created a reasonable short list (Action Van, Camburg and WeldTec)? Should I be looking at alternate methods, like air bags?

Note: I’m very new to this so I’m still learning. I found this tutorial video on lifts useful to teach me the key parts:

 

[CaptainBuilt]

Weldtec makes a grocery getter kit. That's the only 6" kit that's not a 4WD kit. UJOR if you go 4wd. Lifting a van isn't cheap.

 

[Nomadista]

Agreed, it can be, especially with WeldTec. They do seem to offer a high-end product. However, that kind of expense doesn't make sense for me.

I spoke this morning with the owner of Action Van Conversions and their $2k kit can be delivered to a local installer. It provides 5" of clearance, which is good enough for my purpose. The kits work with any E-350/450 chassis (just specify which one while ordering) so the kit will work just fine with my 1997 RV. They have pictures on their site of other Class C's using their kits. Here is one:



I've reached out to A1 Springs in Oakland and he's mulling over whether he'll take the job. If he doesn't, I'm on the hunt for someone else local. Larry at Action Van said that he's happy to answer the questions of an installer if the provided instructions are unclear.

Phase 2 would be to upgrade the tires, which Larry said need to be thin-ish because it's a dually (LT235/85R-16).

 

[86scotty]

I had the same class C (it's a B+ technically) that you pictured above. In fact, I'm pretty sure I talked to the same guy a few years ago. There couldn't be too many of these out there. That is not mine, it was a different color. I was going to go with Weldtec's kit but would up adding blocks to the back and changing to 235/85 tires. I went with Toyo Open Country A/T's. It made some difference but not enough.

The problem, especially for rigs with an extremely long rear overhang like yours, is that even if you lift it 12 inches it isn't going to make much of a difference. It's just physics. You'll still drag a lot more than you want. Invest in some caster wheels for under the rear so you don't destroy anything. I did that too.

If you do this I would go with the cheapest kit with the most lift, which sounds like the $2k Action Van one above. I remember talking to them too but didn't buy their kit.

I do not mean to insult your rig because I've had two of em but whomever designs a vehicle with that much overhang should be tied to the rear of the vehicle and drug behind it for a couple of miles. Too harsh?

 

[68camaro]

I used Action Van for my 4.5" lift and other suspension mods, I think I got the Performance Suspension Package. They are great to work with and very accessible to answer questions. Everything went together like it was suppose to.

 

[Nomadista]

@86scotty I agree. It seems to me to be a dumb design and would be a solid reason I would upgrade. I wonder what the theory is behind that. Do you know?

And I agree about using the most-cost effective kit and the castor wheels are a good idea, too; that's the way I'm leaning.

@68camaro thanks for the positive report. My conversation with Larry was very helpful today.

 

[Lilnuts]

With kind of weight you have with that rig a 6" lift at the axle will dramatically change the handling. You might consider a 2" leaf spring lift and add remotely adjustable air bags.
2" at the rear axle will give you close to 4" at the rear bumper. When you enter a road where clearance is an issue, pump the air bags up to 100 psi and raise the rear bumper another 4" only when you need it. Trust me you will use the air bags to adjust your ride (depending on your load at that time) much more often than you thought you would.

 

[Rebuilder]

The $7500 you mentioned for the Weldtec setup includes install so to compare actual costs you need to use $4650. The main differences with the Weldtec kit is that it's a 6" lift and comes with custom rear leaf springs which I'd say are a better option than lift blocks but for your application you'd probably be fine with the Action Van setup and add airbags like Lilnuts said. The biggest difference in the Action van vs the Camburg setup is Action Van uses drop brackets for the I beams vs custom bent beams which saves money but also reduces front ground clearance. Again probably not a huge issue with what you're trying to do.

 

[Nomadista]

@Lilnuts You raise an interesting point...I've been warned a couple other times now that my center of gravity will change dramatically. I drive this rig pretty slowly because it's so thirsty but high winds may still raise my heart rate.

Your suggestion of the air bags may be a better idea given that I will also be towing a trailer (pic below). I spoke to the trailer manufacturer yesterday and he said he can give me only about 2 inches from the factory; that's just not something they normally do in-house.

So perhaps making lifting on-demand with airbags is the way to go. After all, I will certainly be driving slowly in those situations, it makes the trailer more level (unless I raise the trailer even more than 2") and it keeps the center of gravity lower.

@Rebuilder very true, installation on top of the $2k must still be added.

I'll investigate the leaf springs/airbags option next.

Note on the model below, I do know I can't bring firewood between state lines so I'm looking into a firepit that runs on propane or wood pellets. But that's where it will go.

 

[vintageracer]

With the amount of rear overhang you have on your RV I not sure you could safely lift that unit high enough so as not to drag on anything more than a slight incline.

Probably not what you want to hear however you might want to add to your list for consideration looking for another RV with a longer wheelbase and or a shorter rear overhang. Either way you are going to have low clearance issues with a vehicle that long and that low to start with no matter what you do!

 

[Lilnuts]

Most class C builders don't consider what the proper rear leaf spring is for their design. They order a chassis that has lowest GWV (cheapest) to pass the requirements. Load your RV like you would for a trip, take it to a scale and determine what the actual weight is on the rear axle. Your trailer when loaded properly should have about 10 to 15% of the total weight on the tongue. Give this info to a spring shop. They will build springs
Right now your rig has a flabby ass, firm it up with the proper springs and the handling with improve immensely.

 

[Nomadista]

@vintageracer

"Either way you are going to have low clearance issues with a vehicle that long and that low to start with no matter what you do!"

That's my fear, too. Definitely putting on castor wheels.

Makes me wonder if I should just start with the castor wheels and test that for 2021. Sometimes there are only so many things one can do to correct a fundamental design deficiency.

Hmmmm.

 

[quickfarms]

I would crawl under the back end and se if there is anything that can be trimmed, removed or relocated to gain ground clearance.

I have found that most RV manufactures are clueless about ground clearance

 

[Nomadista]

@quickfarms good idea. I'll do that.

At the same time, you can see that my problem is made worse by this hitch design. I don't know anything about hitches...are other designs possible? I'm going to start investigating.

 

[quickfarms]

@quickfarms good idea. I'll do that.

At the same time, you can see that my problem is made worse by this hitch design. I don't know anything about hitches...are other designs possible? I'm going to start investigating.

View attachment 634199

The hitch tube is currently below the crosswise tube. It could be rebuilt to be behind or on top but without seeing the frame and the rest of the underside of the camper it is impossible to say how much you can gain