Lightbare wiring question

AFBronco235

Crew Chief
I feel kind of stupid for asking this now, but I need to make sure I'm wiring in my light bar correctly. Besides the light and a battery, what else is needed to wire in an LED light.

The lightbar I'm using is and Eyourlife 50" that came with no instructions.

All I need is a list of parts and a just a wiring diagram. No youtube videos, no lengthy explanations on why something is needed. Just parts and a drawing to show where they go in the wiring harness.
 
Can't help with a pic but I can tell you it will need a resistor. Make sure to get some good environmental splices. If you are in good with the E&E guys on base guy talk to them about splices, they may be able to get you some.
 
I prefer to solder my connections, then use heat shrink tubing on them. Much better than a crimp connector. Anyways, I do better electrical work than the E&E guys I work with. I can get ahold of all the splices I'd need.
 
No need for a resistor,all light bars have their own drivers and regulators built in,even the really cheap ones.

Are you going to be putting it through a switch or a feed from the main beams from the headlights? You'll need a relay for sure,and a fuse to go between the battery and the relay.

Have a fused feed from the. Battery going to the terminal 30 on the relay,and terminal 87 going to the +ve on the light.

Terminal 85 can come from either your switch or the trigger for your high beams,and finally terminal 86 goes to ground.

So all you really need is a 12v relay,4 spade connectors as it is really hard to solder onto a relay terminal an inline fuse holder and away you go. To connect up the light bar either solder the wires together or use a connector,I used amp super seals on mine,but I had some knocking about.
 
No need for a resistor,all light bars have their own drivers and regulators built in,even the really cheap ones.

Are you going to be putting it through a switch or a feed from the main beams from the headlights? You'll need a relay for sure,and a fuse to go between the battery and the relay.

Have a fused feed from the. Battery going to the terminal 30 on the relay,and terminal 87 going to the +ve on the light.

Terminal 85 can come from either your switch or the trigger for your high beams,and finally terminal 86 goes to ground.

So all you really need is a 12v relay,4 spade connectors as it is really hard to solder onto a relay terminal an inline fuse holder and away you go. To connect up the light bar either solder the wires together or use a connector,I used amp super seals on mine,but I had some knocking about.

Thanks. That actually helps. Eyourlife got back to me with a "we don't give instructions on how to use our products", so this is really useful. I'd known that a relay was used, but wasn't sure where it fit in the wiring.

Now all I need to do is figure out how to run the wires down to my control panel. I'm running a separate switch btw. I try to keep my add-ons separate from the stock systems, so I don't risk interfering with anything else. If one light set goes out, it won't screw with anything else. I like keeping my options open.
 
Okay, I got a basic wiring harness put together. Problem is, I think my light has a short in it. It blew the 30 amp fuse as soon as I tested it out. I tried temp hooking up the wires without the fuse, just to be sure I just put in too small a fuse, but the lights wouldn't come on and the extension wires I had running to the light were getting way too hot. So that's where I'm at.

And yes, I know the relay was working, since I could hear it click whenever I turned the switch on and off. Its a 40 amp 12 volt DC relay

Anyways, I yanked the whole thing out and now I'm gonna try to get back in touch with Eyourlife and get a refund and go with a different light brand.
 
Good luck with it. I order some lights from lineside led they were really well priced come with a free wiring harness, waterproof, and shockproof. I have to say for a off brand I was impressed with the quality.
 
relay_wiring
 
Finally got it all wired up and working now. Thanks.

The problem was at my end as it turned out. One of the wires had an internal break, which I only noticed as I was wrapping it up and it just bent. Spliced that break out and now everything it working perfectly.
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Here is my wiring circuit I ended up with. The fuse panel was already there for other features, so I just threw in the switch fuse there and wired in a 40 amp auto resetting circuit breaker, as I couldn't find a 40 amp fuse holder. The switch is wired up, but not mounted yet, since I plan on redoing all my switches on my old control panel.
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