Little Guy Teardrop Rough Rider Build

Longtallsally

Adventurer
Quick question for you: is there a particular reason why you started with a Rough Rider and not just a basic 5 wide and save a couple (possibly few) thousand dollars? We are most likely going to pull the trigger on a 5 wide and I've been leaning toward the Rough Rider, but with all the stuff you are doing, much of it is negating what the RR came with and I was just curious.

The main thing that has me leaning toward the RR is that it already has trailer brakes set up, but as I'll most likely never pull it through the Rubicon or the like and most likely will be doing fairly simple stuff and used as a base camp for dirt bike rides or taking the Jeep on tougher trails. If I can get a "regular" 5 wide and just do a lift and such more to my spec for the same money, it seems like it would be better to do it that way over time.
 
LongTallSally,
Great question, The reason, I started with a rough rider, is because it was used. It had the AC Prep, Roof Rack, TV, Etc, Package. I paid about $5000 less for it, than a new one, and I really could not tell the difference. The Skid pans would be the second reason. Although the skid pans are no way strong enough, stock to be truly rock worthy, They are a great start. We are welding 5 strips of 1" angle iron on the leading edge of the skid pans, to reinforce them, and create a sled type effect. The leading edge is the surface area, that does the most work. It is the surface that is required to withstand forces, necessary to lift the partial weight of the trailer. The middle flat section, is the section the skid pans, that the trailer will slide on, and the rear section, will just be responsible for easing the trailer weight of of a rock, and is shorter, and will not do as much work. I would suggest starting with a Rough Rider, used, unless you can find a regular 5 wide that is used, and even cheaper. You are correct, the pintle hitch is junk, the tires are not big enough, and more importantly the axle is not nearly reliable and strong enough, for serious off-roading. I truly believe, that this trailer will be one of the most off-road capable trailers made, once completed.
 

Longtallsally

Adventurer
Cool, thanks. In my research, ones that are a couple years old go for REALLY cheap- and it would be nice to start with a super duper cheap one as a decent platform.

The info on the leading edges is a good point and pretty easily accomplished. All of it is really a bit over and above the needs I would have as the real goal is a lighter and smaller replacement to our Evo 1 pop up camper- that we loved, but it was just getting to be too much work to set up, and I'd get the brakes a little hot going up and over Sonora Pass. I'm not looking for a full on rock crawler, but something that could do Death Valley for example (not much hard there for a trailer outside of Mengel, Lippincott, or the steps on Steele pass) but nothing like Fordyce or other craziness. I think the RR out of the box will suffice for what I need (the dirt bike takes precedence on performance) and as long as that front tray will handle a bike, it will serve the purpose I need it to.

One more question: are you using a lock n' roll or whatever for the hitch to replace the pintle?

Thanks again.
 
The Tow Vehicle, hooked up to a Livin Lite Camplite 16QB

This is us tailgating at the OSU Game. This will be the tow vehicle, a 2010 Toyota FJ Cruiser.

IMG_4070.jpg
 
I am going to be using the Max Coupler. The new improved version. Do not have any advice. I do know the max coupler gets great reviews, and it very proven. I have seen a few negative comments regarding the lock and roll. But I doubt they are justified.
 

geo.greg

Observer
the rock guard system caught my attention more as a opps i screwed up than needing to slide over boulders on a trail. in the past two years, we have been rear ended twice and when i was younger backed a 20 foot boat trailer into a 4 foot sign post while trying to navigate a launch ramp parking lot. keep looking at the rear of the little guy and tad concerned that any of those things and dont see a good out come. heck ive even looked at
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SB33LF4...TF8&colid=359ZX02ZVS1IW&coliid=I1LLE5546G7YTB
just as a quick solution for Los Angeles drivers.
your comments on spot on regarding the suspension, to put things into prospective, Ive got an offer on a RR5w waiting to see if they accept it or not. so im really in the conceptual stage. (yet already buying stuff assuming they will)
-g-
 
The rear hitch receiver is a joke on the Little Guy trailers

Just to give you heads up. The rear hitch on the little guy is only rated at 150 pounds. I am assuming that is tongue weight. That is not hateful, except that most people with not pay attention to this limitation. With a quality bike rack and a couple of bikes, bouncing down the road, I would be very concerned about the receiver holding up. It is the canter lever effect that will destroy the factory rear hitch on the trailer. The decal will, allow Little Guy to say they told you so. SO long story short the rear hitch is in need of reinforcing. It will be part of the project. As far as a rear step, as shown in you post. I would say, no and no. Unless you are a small child. The step or the use of a step as a rear bumper, would be not worth the money spent.
 

geo.greg

Observer
I wasn't thinking of a step, heck in don't even know what I would be stepping up to back there, just as a point to tap prior to crushing in the rear fiberglass. Knowing this wadnt a great solutuon, but liked it better than nothing. As I stated before, I was interested in your rear rock guard project.
 
Battery Installation in Tongue Box, Batteries selected to power The Honey Badger

Two Odyssey 34R 1700 AGM batteries with HK-PC1500 Hold Down Kits will be installed, in the Honey Badger. The batteries possess a deep cycle performance characteristic, 80% depth of discharge, long lasting static charge status, and with the unique sealed unit characteristic, the battery has a service life of up to 10 years. Due to these batteries possesing the qualities of a deep cycle battery and the power of a starting battery. The two trailer batteries will be a welcomed backup, in the event the tow vehicle battery fails. This will prevent a potentially dangerous situation when traveling to remote locations in the contiental United States and Alaska. ‪#‎odysseybattery‬ ‪#‎enersys‬ ‪#‎triadexpedtions‬ ‪#‎overlandteardrop‬

Odyssey 34R-1500.jpg

Odyssey Battery tie down.jpg
 
Solar Panels

I due plan on purchasing a portable solar panel setup. The kind that I can move around to the best position. Also I want to have the ability to plug the solar panels into both the tow vehicle or the trailer. I will most likely wire in some anderson plugs inline, so that I can have a more confident connection to the tow vehicle second battery, that is running the fridge, and have a anderson plug to connect the solar to the trailer batteries. There will be a total of 4 Odyssey batteries, between the tow vehicle and the trailer. All the same spec. Being left, without a usable 12V, battery for the tow vehicle is not an option.
 

Hilldweller

SE Expedition Society
I due plan on purchasing a portable solar panel setup. The kind that I can move around to the best position. Also I want to have the ability to plug the solar panels into both the tow vehicle or the trailer. I will most likely wire in some anderson plugs inline, so that I can have a more confident connection to the tow vehicle second battery, that is running the fridge, and have a anderson plug to connect the solar to the trailer batteries. There will be a total of 4 Odyssey batteries, between the tow vehicle and the trailer. All the same spec. Being left, without a usable 12V, battery for the tow vehicle is not an option.
Good plan.
I've run Enersys batteries in the past and they don't do well on a steady diet of alternator. They want to be fed.
I'm using a Renogy 100w suitcase right now and it tops off my two marine batteries with no problem, even in winter/fall sunlight: http://www.renogy-store.com/
 

Scott B.

SE Expedition Society
I am curious as to why you need so many batteries.

I have 2 in my truck, and I use them to power the fridge (in the truck) and the lights in the teardrop. I have never depleted either battery while camping.

Am I missing something?
 

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