MOguy
Explorer
Any time you lift the motor you could have exhaust mount issues. I cut my muffler off ( kept the cat) and have a turn behind the skid plate.
LJ Suspension refresh
- Thread starter RubiLJ81
- Start date
agreed, but the UCF kit is not plug and play, needs a bit of fab work.
from their install instructions, not a big deal, just not as simple as pervious versions I have installed from other companies.
Application:
‘03-’06 Jeep Wrangler “TJ” & ‘04-‘06 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited “LJ”
This new mount is a direct replacement for the factory transmission mount on the '03-'06 model TJ and LJ. It is almost 1" shorter than the factory piece. This lowers the transfer case down into the skid plate by the same amount. That 1" of extra clearance can go far toward reducing metal-on-metal vibration and avoiding body lifts. Some increase in felt drivetrain vibration should be expected with this transmission mount.
Some modifications to the factory bracket that connects the transmission mount to the transmission will be necessary. You will be required to shorten a flange with a sawzall or angle grinder. The LOPRO mount will be shipped unassembled and unpainted. You will need to paint all the bare steel parts and install the bushing.
Notes:
(1) The LOPRO mount will not be directly compatible with the UCF High-Clearance Transfer Case Skid Plate if used with the 42RLE automatic transmission. The transmission pan would interfere with the bent front edge of the skid plate. The front edge of the skid plate could be modified to allow the parts to be used together.
(2) The LOPRO mount should not be used with 32RH automatic transmission in the early TJ because the adapter that attaches the transmission mount to the skid plate doesn't adequately support the bottom side of the LOPRO mount.
from their install instructions, not a big deal, just not as simple as pervious versions I have installed from other companies.
Application:
‘03-’06 Jeep Wrangler “TJ” & ‘04-‘06 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited “LJ”
This new mount is a direct replacement for the factory transmission mount on the '03-'06 model TJ and LJ. It is almost 1" shorter than the factory piece. This lowers the transfer case down into the skid plate by the same amount. That 1" of extra clearance can go far toward reducing metal-on-metal vibration and avoiding body lifts. Some increase in felt drivetrain vibration should be expected with this transmission mount.
Some modifications to the factory bracket that connects the transmission mount to the transmission will be necessary. You will be required to shorten a flange with a sawzall or angle grinder. The LOPRO mount will be shipped unassembled and unpainted. You will need to paint all the bare steel parts and install the bushing.
Notes:
(1) The LOPRO mount will not be directly compatible with the UCF High-Clearance Transfer Case Skid Plate if used with the 42RLE automatic transmission. The transmission pan would interfere with the bent front edge of the skid plate. The front edge of the skid plate could be modified to allow the parts to be used together.
(2) The LOPRO mount should not be used with 32RH automatic transmission in the early TJ because the adapter that attaches the transmission mount to the skid plate doesn't adequately support the bottom side of the LOPRO mount.
vevans
Retired 4-Wheeler
This post will eventually be about BUMP STOPS, a very overlooked part of the suspension.
I hope you do not mind if I post on your thread. I purchased a new 2003 TJ that would like to grow up to become a LJ. I lived in Seattle and watered it often and it did not grow and inch. But, at about 20,000 miles I did install an OME heavy duty suspension kit, a 1" body lift, a full skid plate, engine skid, SYE kit, new drive shaft, adjustable rear control arms, adjustable front and rear track bars and 32 inch K02's back when you could still get that size. The Jeep is Khaki with hard top, front and rear bumpers and a front winch. It now runs 31" K02's so that both my wife and I can still get into it.
The Jeep has 220,000 miles on it now. Last summer I replaced the rear springs with OME heavy duty ones and OME shocks. This gave me better control while towing a light off-road trailer. During the current "stay home and shelter" time I replaced the rear upper and lower control arms. The plastic bushings in the upper adjustable control arms were pretty well worn but he stock lower ones were not bad.
My biggest suspension problems have been bump stops. They will become mushy and ineffective but look OK. The OME rear track bar mount bracket went up and cut the fuel line when it bottomed out because the rear bump stops were mush. I stuffed a front tire all the way into the fender while in the Maze area of Utah last Fall when the front bump stop disappeared. I don't hear much talk about bump stops but they are important and should be at the correct length to mitigate any damage when suspensions bottom out. I could buy stock from bump stops for the front but the stock rears are not available. Aftermarket ones can be purchased and cut to the desired length.
With all the mods made when relatively new the Jeep runs and drives great with not a drop of oil on the garage floor. It is my daily driver, exploration and overlanding vehicle. Change the oil, lube regularly, and replace worn parts (BUMP STOPS!) and it will run like a top for a long time.
Vince
I hope you do not mind if I post on your thread. I purchased a new 2003 TJ that would like to grow up to become a LJ. I lived in Seattle and watered it often and it did not grow and inch. But, at about 20,000 miles I did install an OME heavy duty suspension kit, a 1" body lift, a full skid plate, engine skid, SYE kit, new drive shaft, adjustable rear control arms, adjustable front and rear track bars and 32 inch K02's back when you could still get that size. The Jeep is Khaki with hard top, front and rear bumpers and a front winch. It now runs 31" K02's so that both my wife and I can still get into it.
The Jeep has 220,000 miles on it now. Last summer I replaced the rear springs with OME heavy duty ones and OME shocks. This gave me better control while towing a light off-road trailer. During the current "stay home and shelter" time I replaced the rear upper and lower control arms. The plastic bushings in the upper adjustable control arms were pretty well worn but he stock lower ones were not bad.
My biggest suspension problems have been bump stops. They will become mushy and ineffective but look OK. The OME rear track bar mount bracket went up and cut the fuel line when it bottomed out because the rear bump stops were mush. I stuffed a front tire all the way into the fender while in the Maze area of Utah last Fall when the front bump stop disappeared. I don't hear much talk about bump stops but they are important and should be at the correct length to mitigate any damage when suspensions bottom out. I could buy stock from bump stops for the front but the stock rears are not available. Aftermarket ones can be purchased and cut to the desired length.
With all the mods made when relatively new the Jeep runs and drives great with not a drop of oil on the garage floor. It is my daily driver, exploration and overlanding vehicle. Change the oil, lube regularly, and replace worn parts (BUMP STOPS!) and it will run like a top for a long time.
Vince
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Absolutely agree about bump stops. One should mathematically and physically calculate their needed bumstop height. Cycle your suspension fully without coils make sure your shocks don’t bottom out. Make sure your trackbars clear everything. Then adjust bump stops accordingly