Lock N' Roll Hitch Questions

Robert Bills

Explorer
I am finally ready to add a Lock N' Roll coupler to my Bantam trailer, which has been modified with a 2" receiver tube so that I can interchange couplers:

HPIM0158.JPG



I "think" I want trailer coupler P/N 212 (2" square slide in) and vehicle drop hitch P/N 303:

212.jpg


303-with-mount.jpg


My questions:

Which Lock N' Roll trailer coupler is used on Adventure Trailers?

For other trailers, what Lock N' Roll coupler and hitch are you using?

Is it an advantage or disadvantage to have a 45 degree rotation limiting coupler on a 1/4 ton offroad trailer behind a Jeep? Why or why not?

If a rotation limiting trailer coupler would be an advantage, is the 2,000 lb. rated coupler (P/N 102) too lightweight for a loaded Bantam (approx. 1,200-1,400 lbs.)? If so, does Lock N' Roll have a 6,000 lb rated rotation limiting coupler? (Can't find one on their website.)

Thanks.
 

elcoyote

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0004
AT uses the 212 & 303. We also have some stock of the 102 for builders but we will not use them on our own trailers.

L&R does not make a limiting coupler greater than 2000 lbs for the reason that if you were operating a trailer heavier than 2000 lbs and your trailer got to the the end of the limiter, the trailer could effectively fulcrum the vehicle over on its side along with the trailer.

At AT we only use full rotation couplers. In our opinion, the most precious cargo is parked right in your seat. Let the trailer roll, it can always be recovered.
 

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:archaeolo I've got the 6000lb Lock and Roll hitch assy from AT and my trailer, fully loaded is 1000lbs

If you're going to use a limited rotation Lock and Roll then you're defeating the Lock and Roll type hitch, "advantage" (360 deg rotation) , might as well stay with the military Pintle/Lunette, which is a limited rotation hitch anyway

Mine operates FLAWLESSLY, Thanks AT

:gunt: :gunt: JIMBO
 

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:archaeolo Well, with the Pintle/Lunette, the trailer will go Up/DOWN as far as the tow vehicle will allow it


IH8RDS said:

But it will only rotate a little less than 90 deg either way

Capish

:REOutIceFishing: :REOutIceFishing: JIMBO
 

Robert Bills

Explorer
elcoyote said:
AT uses the 212 & 303.... At AT we only use full rotation couplers....

Thanks for the quick response. My initial thought was that a rotation limiting coupler increases the chance for a tipping trailer to pull the tow rig over, but some language on the Lock N' Roll website suggested that they believe a rotation limiting coupler is an advantage offroad.

As for the weight of my trailer, I am guessing at 1200 lbs or so fully loaded but that is high and includes some items I don't normally carry. The trailer itself weighs 585 lbs. When I inventory the contents, my guesstimate of the payload is about 400-450 lbs including water, propane, food and firewood. I need to load it up and take it to the scales.

In any event, I will put the 212 and 303 on my shopping list.
 

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:archaeolo My TENTRAX weighs about 600 lbs "NAKED" and I load about 350/450 lbs carefully to maintain a 110 lb tongue weight


Robert Bills said:
Thanks for the quick response. My initial thought was that a rotation limiting coupler increases the chance for a tipping trailer to pull the tow rig over, but some language on the Lock N' Roll website suggested that they believe a rotation limiting coupler is an advantage offroad.

As for the weight of my trailer, I am guessing at 1200 lbs or so fully loaded but that is high and includes some items I don't normally carry. The trailer itself weighs 585 lbs. When I inventory the contents, my guesstimate of the payload is about 400-450 lbs including water, propane, food and firewood. I need to load it up and take it to the scales.

In any event, I will put the 212 and 303 on my shopping list.

My trailer came (options) with the std BALL hitch and the military pintle/Lunette which I was happy with untill I saw the AT trailers, with their Lock & Roll, (I was used to Lock & Load)

Then I HAD TO HAVE one, not that I figured my trailer would EVER turn 360 degrees, I was just a kid in a candy store, so I got one, now I have three ways to tow my trailer, although, I carry the pintle/lunette with me while I use the Lock & Roll


It's a carefree hitch, I just wd-40 it, now and then and I added some grease internally and It's squeek free

:REOutIceFishing: :REOutIceFishing: JIMBO
 

TheMike

Adventurer
TAKE IT FROM ME.....GET ONE! I rolled a Chaser in Moab and that coupler worked as designed (not to mention it is so solid it's silent!). Hey, one man's F$%@ up is another man's saving grace! (sorry again clint)

HPIM0977.jpg
 

roadkill

Adventurer
not wanting to hijack this thread but what is the adavantage of the Lock N Roll vs the pintle hitch on the M416's? my M416 pintle hitch will swivel 360 degrees and would in theory do the same thing as a Lock N Roll. is it that the Lock N Roll does this with a little less noise and bind (while turning) or is there a distinct advantage?
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
roadkill said:
not wanting to hijack this thread but what is the adavantage of the Lock N Roll vs the pintle hitch on the M416's? my M416 pintle hitch will swivel 360 degrees and would in theory do the same thing as a Lock N Roll. is it that the Lock N Roll does this with a little less noise and bind (while turning) or is there a distinct advantage?

The lack of a solid connection with the Pintle can create some sway problems at highway speeds. It's one of the reasons military convoys don't exceed 55 mph.

The push and pull of the pintle can also play havoc with your drive train and chassis.

On and off road the Lock-n-roll is rock solid, towing at speed is no problem.
 

roadkill

Adventurer
Martyn said:
The lack of a solid connection with the Pintle can create some sway problems at highway speeds. It's one of the reasons military convoys don't exceed 55 mph.

The push and pull of the pintle can also play havoc with your drive train and chassis.

On and off road the Lock-n-roll is rock solid, towing at speed is no problem.


well now that you mention it I did have problems once (well almost) pulling I think 42 solid cinder blocks in the trailer on a paved but rutted county road. anything over 35-40 created alot of sway. I went slow till I got on better roads then 60-70 was no problem as long as I didn't make any sudden moves. not sure if it was strictly weight or the mounting system or a combination of both. as far as drivetrain and chassis problems I haven't experienced any yet. not to say it won't happen but the bind(you'll know it by the popping sound) is always there empty or loaded. I think your right, the Lock N Roll is a much better set up
 

gpwpat

Adventurer
Well $.02. In my bantam. with a stock full rotation lunett, fully loaded, eezi awn topped. pulled from California to Montana, and back at 80 mph. I dind't even know the trailer was there. The only time I hear a clunk is in a U turn. Not one sway.

I have no doubt that the Lock N roll is a better modern alternative. But not worth the upgrade to me. I like it fine. I just don't see the benifits over a pintle hook and lunet that is 360 degree rotation except no clunk when braking or U turning.


However I would get it If I had your civy trailer. as you have the benefits of the toung extension as well.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
gpwpat said:
Well $.02. In my bantam. with a stock full rotation lunett, fully loaded, eezi awn topped. pulled from California to Montana, and back at 80 mph. I dind't even know the trailer was there. The only time I hear a clunk is in a U turn. Not one sway.

I have no doubt that the Lock N roll is a better modern alternative. But not worth the upgrade to me. I like it fine. I just don't see the benifits over a pintle hook and lunet that is 360 degree rotation except no clunk when braking or U turning.


However I would get it If I had your civy trailer. as you have the benefits of the toung extension as well.

The scenario is very much like people who use coolers trying to justify buying a fridge. They don't see the justification until they use a fridge and then they will never return to a cooler.
 

IH8RDS

Explorer
I agree that the lock and roll is a more modern alternative, but I feel the same way gpwpat. I have full rotation and my M416, fully loaded, will pull straight as an arrow at speed. The popping you hear at u-turns is from a mismatched lunette and pintle. Usually the pintle is to small.

I still use coolers too. :sombrero:

The scenario is more like wanting the best of the best of the best. Sure it would be nice to have one, but why not just ditch the M416 and buy a AT Chaser?
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
IH8RDS said:
I agree that the lock and roll is a more modern alternative, but I feel the same way gpwpat. I have full rotation and my M416, fully loaded, will pull straight as an arrow at speed. The popping you hear at u-turns is from a mismatched lunette and pintle. Usually the pintle is to small.

I still use coolers too. :sombrero:

The scenario is more like wanting the best of the best of the best. Sure it would be nice to have one, but why not just ditch the M416 and buy a AT Chaser?

I don't know, why not ditch the M416 and buy a Chaser, you'd be getting the best of the best. The downside would be you would have to get a fridge :sombrero:
 

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