Longbed Stepside Expedition Truck Trailer

[Pooch72]

Well, I've done some more work as of late. I picked up (4) LED submersible trailer lights and set out to cut holes in my bumper. I now have all 4 lights flush mounted to the bumper. Here's what I bought, though the installation picture will have to wait. My camera is currently dead.

Next, I picked up a trailer wiring harness and strung it from the tongue to the bumper through the frame rails. All the wires run together and through a 3/8" loom to keep them all together and protected. The loom is also fastened to the frame to prevent it from hanging, sagging, dragging and failing.

All in all, this trailer is almost ready to be used! The wonderful paint job is being put on the back burner for a while. I figure that it's a low priority at the moment, but still on the list of things to do.

 

[Pooch72]

Finished up the wiring this weekend on the tail lights. Then I started loading it with a couple cubic yards of garbage that I have laying around. Ended up being 700 pounds at the scales.

Here's a picture that shows the lights all installed and wired.

the rest of these pictures just shows the different angles. All in all, I'm very happy with the way it's turning out.

 

[Mark Harley]

Pooch, That trailer is way cool!
Love to see that one with a matching tow rig.
keep the pictures coming!
Mark Harley

 

[Pooch72]

Pooch, That trailer is way cool!
Love to see that one with a matching tow rig.
keep the pictures coming!
Mark Harley

It's funny you mention that.
This is the inspiration behind the trailer, and once it gets painted, it will be a perfect match!

 

[Pooch72]

There was a very serious FAIL this weekend on the way to the dump. The trailer coupling latch failed while driving down the road. The locking latch managed to "unlock" itself. I went over a rise in the road and when the truck came down, the trailer tongue continued up!

I don't have pictures of it because nothing really happened. Basically, the trailer tongue came down, the chains caught it like they're supposed to, and I brought everything to a slow and steady stop. No harm, no foul. Could have been crazy bad if the safety devices failed too!

Today, I'm picking up a good trailer coupling to replace the old PIECE OF $HIT that's currently on there. I can't do that again. Darn near cr@pped myself. First time that's ever happened to me. It was a mechanical failure, but I didn't like it, and I won't be repeating it.

 

[OverlandZJ]

Well, a popular setup is a 3k axle with 1.5k springs, some even add shocks. Another option for you is to remove one leaf at a time until it rides the way you want it to.

Tough to do on a coil suspension...


Pooch, now that you had a load in the trailer what did you think of the F series coils?

 

[Pooch72]

not what I expected. The springs held the load pretty good, and that's excellent, but being that the springs are so long, they just allowed the trailer to rock side to side. I need to figure out how to minimize the squat and keep the trailer from swaying.

I'm thinking some kind of triangulated 4 link, but I'm going to have to learn that before I can design one.

 

[yeler]

I need to figure out how to minimize the squat and keep the trailer from swaying.

what about some oldschool style air shocks and a panhard bar

edit : after futher review I see you have the original bar on the pumpkin ...or do you still have it i wouldnt think that would allow side to side movement but i could be wrong

 

[Pooch72]

It's still there, but the distance I've lifted the deck off the axle makes that bar too short. I plan to lengthen it and use it, but I'm not sure how effective it's going to be.

 

[Balzer]

I had a 72 chevy a long time ago with the trailing arm suspension. When the panhard bar broke it was REALLY squirly and swayed side to side. I think once you resolve that issue it should ride much better without the sway.

However I have to ask, have you given much thought to just building a new frame out of 2x3 rec. tube then just use a regular trailer axle and leaf springs (or truck/suv springs)
It would get rid of a few hundred pounds, and be less work and brain power than a triangulated 4 link. And I personally think it would look a lot better. You could even build it with independent torsion axles or independent trailing arms.

I know that sounds like a lot of work but really it shouldn't be too bad and you could continue to use the trailer as is until the new frame was ready then just swap the box onto the new frame. It shouldn't cost a whole lot either.

Just an idea to think about. Great build so far!

 

[Pooch72]

Thanks for the idea. Initially, I built this to be something I could use for camping and dump runs. It's actually turned out nicer than I expected. I might actually eventually build a good, solid, sturdy frame that won't give me the headaches.

Until then, though, I'll fix the panhard bar and use what I got.

I've never had a suspension that used a panhard bar, so I'm not very familiar with them. Seems to me that with the weight in the bed, when the springs compress, the bar would squat and PUSH the axle to one side! Like I said, not terribly familiar with the system, but with any "bounce" to the springs, the floor of the bed changes distance to the axle and would either push or pull the axle to the right or left.

Perhaps the panhard bar just minimizes the amount of travel the springs would normally allow. This is something I need to look into.

 

[Balzer]

You are correct. As the springs compress, the axle does shift to one side but not very much. Without that panhard bar though the coil springs will move all over the place (think about a slinky toy) With the panhard bar its controlled.

You should be fine once you fix the panhard bar. Me personally, on a trailer, I would just cut the frame mount off and move it to where you can bolt the bar back in and weld the mount on in its new position. The more ideal fix would be to cut the mount off and move it down so that the bar is parallel to the axle. This way the axle is centered at the longest point of the bar and the side to side movement will be equal both up and down (but opposite directions). So you would basically be building a drop mount on the frame side.

Lots of vehicles have this sort of set up. All jeep wranglers from 97+ have a panhard bar, unless they are custom built with triangulated 4 link, 3 link or other.

 

[Pooch72]

Well, it's been a while since I've posted. Had to move. My job recently moved 50 miles away from me, and the commute was killing me. Now, I've gone from a 60 mile commute (each way) to a 11 mile commute (each way).

Anyways, down to the meat and potatoes....

Recently purchased a new trailer coupler. After the disconnect with the old one, I wasn't about to go through that again. Shelled out the cash and bought a brand new one.

It's installed, but I don't currently have a picture. But, this is exactly what I bought. I swapped out the mounting bolts as well for some brand new Grade 8 hardware. Yep, this one isn't going anywhere.

Next on the list is going to be some locks. I'm thinking these....

 

[Deleted member 9101]

There was a very serious FAIL this weekend on the way to the dump. The trailer coupling latch failed while driving down the road. The locking latch managed to "unlock" itself. I went over a rise in the road and when the truck came down, the trailer tongue continued up!

I always padlock mine so that will not happen. In addition to making it safer, it means they have to steal my truck and trailer, not just the trailer...lol

 

[Pooch72]

It's a serious lesson learned on my part. I'm just glad that I didn't do any damage, have an accident, take out another vehicle, or flip the trailer.

My safety chains did their job, and I'm thankful for that. Before I tow again, I'm making sure everything is picture perfect.