Looking at an 80 series, had some Qs

[blupaddler]

This is a really great discussion.

Both Scotts have made some really good points. And having seen Sgt. Gunt's 80 in Pismo, his is REALLY nice.


Some things I have to add. The 80 is comfortable like everyone else has stated. I am approaching 170k on mine. And I am actually starting to think about "expedition life." Make sure you get one with low, LOW miles. Look at Pasquales, he found one with like 40 or 60K on it. But you'll pay a higher price too. I have replaced a bunch of stuff on my 80 due to PM. Mainly b/c the truck is 12 or 13 years old. There is something to say about getting a brand-new truck like Scott chose to.


Regarding the Part-Time kit. Slee now makes it for ALL years. I don't know of anyone who has actually done the conversion yet. I have thought about, but, it's still just a thought.

Other points...
1. Gas mileage sucks, expect anywhere from 11-14mpg. But you can use regular gas.
2. Easy to work on, lots of room in the engine bay. Coil springs can be swapped out in 30 minutes.
3. Hood is HUGE!
4. More power than your truck, numbers wise yes. But that 212hp is at 4600 RPM. I don't know how everyone drives in WA, but it's difficult to keep up here in SoCal sometimes. Basically, don't expect to get anywhere quickly. But, I guess if you wanted to do that you'd be looking at something else.
5. Parts are expensive. Join www.ih8mud.com then you can get parts at cost from a super cool, and very knowledgeable guy named Cruiser Dan or C-Dan for short.
6. Slee's newbie guide... http://sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbie100.htm Or just give him a call. 1-888-4x4-slee Everyone there is really helpful, and knowledgeable.
7. Check out a thread running now over at mud, regarding ownership. And it's started by the parts guy!
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=124556
8. There have been some with headgasket issues.
9. Also, there is a re-curring problem with the EGR on some models. I am unsure of which years. But I know mine is included.
10. Some go through O2 sensors as well. Some people are on their third set. I just changed mine out this weekend.




I can't emphasize enough to buy a low-mileage vehicle. With a proven maintanence record. Just base-lining the vehicle with hoses, belts, axle rebuilds, etc will run you over $1000 in just parts alone.


You'll miss your truck. As big as the 80 seems, I still occassionally miss having a truck. There sure a lot of nice Double Cabs around here.

:friday:


Hope I didn't ramble on too much.
Good luck.
:1888fbbd:

 

[Skillet]

My response is...

 

[ChuckB]

I just wanted to add this is a great thread!! Most likely an FZJ80 or possibly an FJ80 will be my next purchase.

Any thoughts on an FJ80 converted to run an H55F manual tranny and the manual hub conversion mentioned above??

 

[Pskhaat]

Any thoughts on an FJ80 converted to run an H55F manual tranny and the manual hub conversion mentioned above??

Very doable, H42 which provides a consistent 20% lower gearing across the board of 4 gears allowing some leeway on diff gearing and of course the H55f wonder. I probably wouldn't do the part-time hubs, just the part time tcase because the drivelines need to be modified.

You can also retrofit a 3F or 2F carb onto the 3F and re-use many 2F parts available world-wide.

 

[Brian894x4]

My response is...

Yes, yes, that's EXACTLY the kind of build I was looking to do. The only difference is I want MTRs. Do you mind if I ask how much lift and what size tires are on there?

Thanks again for the additional comments.

Scott, I love your truck and how it's set up. If cost wasn't a problem, I would like to have both a 2004 or earlier DC taco and an 80 series. At this point, I'm thinking an 80 series will fit my needs better and will be cheaper to buy…at least initially.

Comparing a ‘93+ LC with my truck's power/weight ratio. My truck weighes 5300lbs for a trip…sometimes heavier. I've heard that built Land Cruiser 80s can weigh as much as 6600lbs. So I'll just use that figure. Based on 212hp for the LC and 116hp for my truck…

The LC will weight as much as (but probably less than) 24% more than my truck. But….

The LC has 82% more h.p., which means that power to weight ratio will be 58% better than my truck or better. Of course, the auto tranny, gearing/tire ratio of the LC will lessen the effectiveness, but it will still be much better than what have.

As far as torque, the LC's 275ft/lbs is 96% better than my truck's 140ft/lbs.

I've explored other options as well, including rebuilding my truck's 22RE, doing an engine transplant, etc. All are still viable, but the problem is that it's money that can never be recovered and the single cab truck just doesn't fit into a future family scenario as well as 4 door SUV. If my truck was a 4Runner instead, I might be more inclined to rebuild or engine transplant it.

I have looked at '91-'92 models. They are so incredibly cheap, even with low miles. Older Toyota pick-ups are going for more money. It's tempting consider one of them, but then the economy and power to weight ratio is far less than the newer models. I guess the 3FE is still a good motor. An old design, but after running the 22RE all these years, I've come to seriously respect Toyota's older designs.

I'm going to take my time to look and decide. The truck will likely never be sold, just semi-retired. And I could go another season or two driving it, if I don't find a good deal on an LC.

 

[Skillet]

Yes, yes, that's EXACTLY the kind of build I was looking to do. The only difference is I want MTRs. Do you mind if I ask how much lift and what size tires are on there?

Thanks again for the additional comments.

Scott, I love your truck and how it’s set up. If cost wasn’t a problem, I would like to have both a 2004 or earlier DC taco and an 80 series. At this point, I’m thinking an 80 series will fit my needs better and will be cheaper to buy…at least initially.

Comparing a ‘93+ LC with my truck’s power/weight ratio. My truck weighes 5300lbs for a trip…sometimes heavier. I’ve heard that built Land Cruiser 80s can weigh as much as 6600lbs. So I’ll just use that figure. Based on 212hp for the LC and 116hp for my truck…

The LC will weight as much as (but probably less than) 24% more than my truck. But….

The LC has 82% more h.p., which means that power to weight ratio will be 58% better than my truck or better. Of course, the auto tranny, gearing/tire ratio of the LC will lessen the effectiveness, but it will still be much better than what have.

As far as torque, the LC’s 275ft/lbs is 96% better than my truck’s 140ft/lbs.

I’ve explored other options as well, including rebuilding my truck’s 22RE, doing an engine transplant, etc. All are still viable, but the problem is that it’s money that can never be recovered and the single cab truck just doesn’t fit into a future family scenario as well as 4 door SUV. If my truck was a 4Runner instead, I might be more inclined to rebuild or engine transplant it.

I have looked at ’91-’92 models. They are so incredibly cheap, even with low miles. Older Toyota pick-ups are going for more money. It’s tempting consider one of them, but then the economy and power to weight ratio is far less than the newer models. I guess the 3FE is still a good motor. An old design, but after running the 22RE all these years, I’ve come to seriously respect Toyota’s older designs.

I'm going to take my time to look and decide. The truck will likely never be sold, just semi-retired. And I could go another season or two driving it, if I don't find a good deal on an LC.

My Cruiser is...

OME 4" comps in the rear.

OME 850J's in the front.

OME Shocks, N73 front & N74E in back.

Tires are 305's on stock rims.

She sits about 3" higher than stock with all of the weight I carry (suspension only).

Auxillary 44 gallon tank, refer, Hanna sliders, drawer system, CTT, 4x4 labs rear bumper, ABR front with winch, dual battery, etc, etc.

I put 1.5" spacers from Trailgear behind the wheels which helps spread the footprint out. I figured, 3" up and 3" out lends to the stability.

If I had to get new shocks, I would get the longer ones, more compatible with the J springs but I already had these. No biggy, I think you just loose a little travel when getting in the serious rocks but I am more of an expedition type guy anyway.

My problem with MTR's is that they have no treadwear warranty, last half as long and get noisy really quick on the highway. Not to mention, they get out of balance much easier than the A/T.
I have the MTR's on my 40 and I had them on my Taco. Love the tires and they way they look but I just wanted these to last a while.
Plus, I have never been stuck with the AT's.

I really like the setup now.

Hope this helps you spend some more money.


:beer:

 

[blupaddler]

Jeb, Your 80 ROCKS!!!:bowdown:



Brian good luck with your search...

:REOutIceFishing:

 

[Skillet]

Jeb, Your 80 ROCKS!!!:bowdown:



Brian good luck with your search...

:REOutIceFishing:

Thank you Robb.
Yours ain't so bad either!
Especially with your lovely wife and fine pooch riding shotgun!

:rally_guys:

 

[Life_in_4Lo]

The only downside is the lack of HP. Once it gets up to speed, it's no problem. I can cruise at 80mph and it's totally rock steady and you don't feel it at all. Hit some grades and you gotta stay on it, downshift, pwr button to keep up the speed.
You really feel disadvantaged most of all in traffic where you can't "zip" around but obviously, that's just how a big suv is. Build up any suv and it feels the same as you add weight and tires.

Offroad, it just gets better and better the tougher the trail gets. I love how everything is designed to be rebuilt, repacked and re-kickassed! hehe.

I have 285/70 16 MTR's and I like them alot. Smooth and great offroad. They will get louder as they wear but oh well, no biggie. I do think I'll try a different tire- but only b/c I want to try something new.

I think a SC'd 80 is about perfect but I can't part w/ $3000 for it so...

If you can find someone selling a built, clean 80... might be worth it
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=1705390

 

[TiredIronGRB]

Can't beat an 80...

 

[Mlachica]

I too am contemplating selling my truck...With the arrival of our second son I'm leaning towards the 80 for its size and security. This thread has been really helpful.

There have been some with headgasket issues.

How common is this? I'm hoping not as common as with the 3.0 v6 toyota came out with. Would occassionally checking the torque on the head bolts help?

 

[locrwln]

I too am contemplating selling my truck...With the arrival of our second son I'm leaning towards the 80 for its size and security. This thread has been really helpful.



How common is this? I'm hoping not as common as with the 3.0 v6 toyota came out with. Would occassionally checking the torque on the head bolts help?

I think the figures on Ih8mud.com puts it at around 10%. I just went through a blown HG on mine. And there isn't really anyway to tighten the head bolts without removing the cams, and at that point, you might as well replace the HG. So far, no one has had any failures with the newly designed HG.

Jack

 

[rusty_tlc]

This thread sucks, it's making the 80/100 decision harder.

I'm in a similar place with my FJ40, only I'll be keeping the 40 and using it for the tougher trails. We are leaning towards the 100 because of the IFS, higher HP and in general a newer vehicle.

The double cab Taco is a nice rig but we just weren't that comfortable in it. It is still on the short list, but pretty far down.

 

[Pskhaat]

I will chime in that my 80 indeed has had to have it's HG changed and it has for the most part been run and cared for by me who does in fact care for his vehicle (save a few incidences ) like M1 after break-in, all factory parts and regular coolant flushes. The HG is a failure on Toyota's part, but either does or will need to be taken into account on every 80 you'll buy (unless it's been replaced).

 

[Pskhaat]

80/100 decision harder

The only thing I can say to this is that on the 100, you have to remove your intake manifold to get to the starter and they also much prefer high-test fuel and the front diff in the 98-99 is a known 2-pinion weak spot. Just food for thought, and no rhetoric since I own both an 80 & 100 series.