Looking to raise a 2004 Chevy Express 3500 Roadtrek Popular 190

Stevemo

Member
Hi all,
I have a 2004 Roadtrek that I want to raise but don't want to make it a 4x4. The van weighs about 9000 pounds with passengers/gear and it is too low to the ground to go to the mall let alone go exploring. I have been considering the Boulder Offroad (4") and Weldtec (3") spindle lift kits but neither address the front coil springs which are normally bottomed out even at rest. My van has Bilstein shocks for a Class C motorhome and the front coil spring bumpers have still been hammered into dust with the passenger side bumper almost totally missing.
Please advise as to what coil springs you would recommend for using with these lift kits. I don't want the van to be tall and floppy, I want it to be tall and firm for carving twisty mountain roads.
My van: https://archive.org/details/2004roadtrekpopular190chevroletexpress3500
Boulder: http://boulderoffroadvans.com/chevy-gmc-8-lug-van-lift-kits
Weldtec: https://weldtecdesigns.com/product/chevrolet-express-lift-spindle/
Cheers, Steve
 

marret

Active member
Have you spoken to either of the companies? I don't have a spring suggestion, but do believe Jeremy at Weldtec would assist. Of course if you have spoken to them and they wouldn't help, disregard.
 

Herbie

Rendezvous Conspirator
I've talked to several folks who've had 2WD lift/suspension tune-ups done at Weldtec who've been very happy. (Though I think I've only heard from Ford owners.)

I can't comment on Boulder Offroad.

What you want is very doable though, I think.
 

Mat Mobile

Adventurer
I'd go with Weldtec lift spindles. If you want extra lift, add their coil spacers. I would not change the coils (other than stock as they do end up dropping with time).

I did spindles and coils and it's too much (see signature for build thread). The alignment shops can't get it right. I've decided to live, for now, with a bit of camber. I'd rather buy tires sooner than have garages fumble around and charge me the same cost anyway.

Also, having it done at Weldtec is the best thing but you have to be present to move things along. PM me if you have any more questions.
 

Duke84

New member
Have you looked over at the Class B forum (www.classbforum.com)? There is a pretty active thread on raising Chevy class Bs, Roadtreks in particular.
 

Stevemo

Member
Yes, I began reading that thread but it is out of date. It began before anybody was offering Chevy Express kits so it's mainly trial and error using home-brew combinations. I would like to get information on springs for either the Boulder or WeldTec spindles if anybody has successfully swapped in a different pair. I am kind of leaning towards going with direct aftermarket replacements. That will reset 15 years of sagging so it is sort of a lift on its own.
If this goes ahead one of the first trips will be my parents taking the van through Labrador. They popped over using the ferry (barge?) from Newfoundland this year to check things out with their minivan and I'm waiting on a report on road conditions. The 2004 Roadtrek has a macerator pump and a hinged drain pipe so that isn't the low point but the ground effects are too low. The 1991 Dodge B250 Roadtrek we had provided much better clearance other than the drain pipe plus it had a dangerously short wheelbase so it did well except for when the rear bumper got hung up. I had intended to put a hinged drain pipe and macerator pump on it but we ended up selling it when we bought the newer Roadtrek from my parents.
 

Len.Barron

Observer
rear airbags would probably solve a lot of your issues (in the rear) for short money and you get the benefit of them being tunable to your load...I love mine. coil spacers up front from weldtec in the front to start with and see how that goes..
 

GHI

Adventurer
That’s a whole weekend’s worth of reading. Maybe I’ll just look forward to your CliffsNotes.
 

Stevemo

Member
If I do the job myself I'll do a video. I'll piece together some videos in the time being:

Front Coil Spacer Lift including front shock replacement. Removing the spindle is covered here for the most part, you just need to pop the bottom ball joints to finish the removal.

Hub removal from spindles
  • Take the calipers off with the carriers unless you are doing a brake job
  • Don't take the ABS wire off of the hub, disconnect it from the vehicle
  • Don't hammer on wheel bearings very hard or you will need to replace them shortly after doing this job, hammer on the bolts instead of the bearing when separating it from the spindle...if the rotor and hub removal gets ugly just throw out the old hubs and put in new ones

Upper Control Arms if you get the Boulder kit

Rear Shocks, you can see a bit of the rear springs as well. There are no videos on changing the rear springs on these vans. I would consider it the hardest part of the job. Lift blocks would be easier.
 

GHI

Adventurer
That was a great video. I’ve wanted to go see that guy for a while now. Had no idea he had that much energy.
 

Stevemo

Member
Summer is coming! Has anybody done a spindle lift with a Boulder or Weldtec kit on their Express that they would like to comment on?
I am unsure about the Fox shocks, they are upside down and do not have any boots on them. I have run Billstein's on 3 different vehicles and I am happy with them.

I moved my generator back and installed a sway bar back in the fall so I'm pretty much ready for the lift. :D




Cheers, Steve

Hub to fender measurements from another thread:
-9000# 2004 Chevy Express 3500 Roadtrek Popular 190 conversion with factory suspension and 100,000 miles: 19" from the centre of the hub to the wheel arch up front and 21" to the wheel arch on the rear axle.
-Brand new 2019: 155" 3500 6.0 with no rear interior and the centre wheel hub to fender height was 20-3/4" up front and 23" out back. That means my van has sagged 2" over 15 years including the 1000 # of additional conversion weight.
 

GpnAZ

Observer
I lifted my 2011 Chevy Express 3500 with a Weldtec 3" lift spindle, 2" coil spacer and Fox shocks (Weldtec supplied and revalved according to weight). I had a progressive leaf pack built for the rear with a 2" block and added a rear stabilizer bar. I had to add the 2" block due to interference with the black tank by the front spring hanger. I can only say it handles much better then stock, no regrets with the final results! I am getting ready to sell it after the first of the year.
 

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