LR3/4 Elec Power Management Charger/Dual Batt/Solar Suggestions

[Victory_Overland]

@DiscoNels yeah it would be nice to have a 50amp charger in the garage for the Odyssey maintenance cycle but I just can't justify that purchase or use. I've been considering the larger CTEK 25000 and NOCO 26000 for the start jump feature and true maintenance cycle but......still deciding! Both of those chargers are in the 25amp range and the NOCO has the jump-feature on it as well. I'll look into the CTEK 25000 and compare.

Now my prices are getting in the $250 range, I think I should stick to the original plan and maybe use a dual pole charger. Decisions, decisions! lol

 

[perkj]

I run the Ctek 25000 on my setup. I used to run the 7002 but once I went from the optima group 34 to the big boy Deka intimidator group 31 on the secondary, the charging specs on the 7002 weren’t adiquate. An added advantage of the 25k is its 25 amp “supply” mode. This allows you to for example update any of the ecus without risk of the batteries draining in the middle and bricking the ecu. This was require for NAV on the move as I recall its ecu load was like 30-40 mins.

Below is a picture of the group 31 stuffed in there as well as the Morningstar SunSaver MPPT. I opted for the Morningstar bc it’s the only MPPT who’s spec can stand up to underhood temps. I utilize a Victron 702 battery monitor with the bluetooth dongle. Anyone looking into the Vitron Bluetooth products should be aware that those with the built in Bluetooth have significantly less range than going the BT dongle route. I tested a 712 battery monitor with the built in BT and got about 15-20 ft less in range.:

 

[Victory_Overland]

@perkj good info, thanks so much!

 

[benjaminjaninja]

I hope this isn't hijacking the thread too much, but I am hoping to gather some info for my dual battery setup in my LR3. A while back when I was researching different options I came across the Traxide system. I was put off by their terrible website and the fact that I'd have to source things from australia. I ended up with the Blue Sea ML-ACR between my starter (Odyssey 49-950) and house (Odyssey 34-PC1500) I just installed it so I don't have enough knowledge on how it's performing, but hope to run a fridge, radio and lights for a night or three...nothing too demanding.

After doing some more research I found that maybe a simple relay isn't sufficient when dealing with a smart alternator, which I think the LR3 has. Something like a DC-DC charger like the CTEK D250SA or REDARC
BCDC1225D would be better suited.

Has anyone considered a setup like this? Or is it totally overkill for my single aux battery and size and being the same type (AGM) as my starter? Can the Traxide handle the smart alternator and that's why you've selected it? Have you decided that topping off with a wall charger once a month is good enough for you?

Side note: Benefit of something like the CTEK or REDARC is that they both have a MPPT solar controller built in, if I ever want to add that in the future.

 

[keeper1616]

I've been running this for about 2 years - love it so far. One advantage of this over a DC-DC charger is that when my engine battery died, I was able to jump start it with a single finger press, from the drivers price.

https://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2074

 

[benjaminjaninja]

Unfortunately I am on my phone atm, and that link isn’t working.

The CTEK D250SA can also be used in conjunction with the Smartpass 120 which is essentially an intelligent relay. The manual states:
“Start assistance
SMARTPASS 120 automatically connects the service battery to the starter battery for 10 sec to assist, if the starter battery on its own is unable to start the engine. After the start assistance function has been activated, SMARTPASS 120 will display a fault indication until starting has been achieved without using the start assistance function.”

I agree it’s a nice feature to be able to link batteries for jump starting and winching, but in the rare occurrence I need to jump start, a cable with alligator clamps is easy enough. But hopefully that’s never needed with all these smart electronics separating and combining things as needed.

I guess it really comes down to whether or not my alternator can fully charge my aux battery or do I need a dc-dc converter...


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[Ray_G]

Unfortunate that the website put you off; and that you didn’t want products from AUS.

I’d suggest it would have met all your needs, isn’t hard at all to get, and the folks you’ll be working with are solid as they come. That’s been my experience with them ordering and then replacing my user error USI-160 (@ a great price, with really fast shipping).




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[benjaminjaninja]

Nothing against AUS products etc. The Blue Sea was available on amazon, cheaper and from the spec sheets, it didn't seem like the Traxide was worth the price over the Blue Sea. Their website mentions it's "specifically produced for a Discovery 3" but doesn't give any technical details on why that is or what makes the disco 3 special. So looking at both on paper the Blue Sea seemed like a better deal. If someone can explain why the Traxide kit is superior (besides their more advanced timing profiles specific to winching and jump starting) that would be helpful.

 

[Victory_Overland]

The Traxide kit is a fit-to-vehicle kit! From the batteries to the rear bumper, the kit is cut to fit the vehicle with every component needed. Yes, there is a profit margin we are paying for in the overall price, however, small potatoes when you have customer support, vehicle specific (bolt on if you will) dual battery, smart isolator kit designed with solar ready, trailer/caravan ready, mailed to your house. With this kit, the only purchase required is the auxiliary battery of your choice.

I am sure I could wire my kit for cheaper with the proper time and searching if I were to do it again from scratch. I bought the Traxide before the Bluesea was really big in our vehicles but the isolator is just one piece of the kit.

The point is, after purchasing quality wiring, connectors, battery cables (good cables sure are pricey even if you build your own), insulated 8-10ga wiring (15' each) smart isolator, programmable isolator switch, Andersen plugs, wiring wrap, aux plugs, etc. and then layout the installation, you will see that Traxide has done that for you with an easy installation instruction kit, a kit that works, a kit that is widely proven in the industry, and comes with customer support.

Tim (Traxide) is always responsive and willing to answer any questions via email or over the phone. I am expanding my Traxide kit (as we all will most likely do with our electrical kits in our vehicles) and Tim has and will continue to provide recommendations I am sure with no concerns my end.

 

[Ray_G]

^this. Apologies for not responding earlier since I prompted that, but I’d say pretty much the same thing right down to how enjoyable working with Tim has been.


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[Abran]

Just installed some REDARC kits, they seem to be top notch. Those Aussies are on it.

 

[benjaminjaninja]

That totally makes sense once you lay it all out like that. Putting together all the wiring and connectors for my Blue Sea kit was a bit of a pain. Plus I haven’t even gotten to adding a cable run to the trunk with power from the aux battery. The Traxide sounds perfect if you want an all included drop in solution.

Abran, what has been your experience with the Redarcs? What was the reason for going with that over a smart relay?


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[Abran]

They sponsored @expeditionmarooned and we are helping build their 2 rovers for a CA to Argentina trek.

I will do a write up in a few days.

 

[benjaminjaninja]

They sponsored @expeditionmarooned and we are helping build their 2 rovers for a CA to Argentina trek.

I will do a write up in a few days.

That would be great, I’d love to read more about the details.


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[Victory_Overland]

The reality is, once the wiring is in, you are free to change most of the components for upgrades in technology or modification to your system as you need it. Traxide has some splice connectors to join harness under the passenger (NAS) door harness channel that I am not fond of. I know why they are there because it makes the install much much much easier on running the wiring and keeps the kit solder free for the DIY'er who can't solder; in this case, as always, I solder where it makes sense instead of manual connection so those will go in the parts bin.

I've heard great things about REDARC as well and I know they are prime in the Yota market from the Expedition Overland bubbas. I like modern technology that works.........no doubt about that! I do not have any experience with any other kit, just passing on my experience with Traxide thus far and it's been a great one!